The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.

  • Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
    In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.

need help

coolclean577

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 30, 2010
Messages
191
Location
Omaha NE
I guys,
I was wondering if any could help me out. I just put in the new motor from a 90tsi, so I'm runing an oil cooler. My question is that my starter isn't kickin over. I have a good battery but the car wont turn over. Can anyone tell me why? Could I have hooked it up wrong, I cant find a diagram to see if all the wire are hooked up right and there is nothing in Vfaq. It's the last thing I have to do so it runs again.

Anyone in Omaha/Council Bluffs area able to help a member out, I would appreciate the help and putting names to faces is always nice. So who can help a brother out?
 
Last edited:

broxma

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 16, 2009
Messages
911
Location
San Antonio Tx
I'll do one better. By the main harness, passenger side engine bay, on the rail, there is a 3 pin connector. Right near the main harness connector. On the firewall side of the connector you'll see a large wire and two smaller ones. On my car, the large one is Black/yellow stripe. You run 12v to that wire, the starter will kick over. This is a promise. Unless the starter is totally hosed, it's going to spin. No clutch needed, it'll go. If you have the key in the on position, the car will start. Doing this essentially bypasses the starter relay inside the car. If you want, you can hook up a push button switch to this wire to start the car.

Do this and you'll at least know if the starter is working and turning over the motor. If nothing happens, check the power connection to the starter and the solenoid switch wire.

And when you do, be sure the car is not in gear, or you may die. Which is not good.

/brox
 

toybreaker

iconoclast
Joined
Apr 30, 2006
Messages
3,581
Found this post I made awhile back when I was searching another thread

Quoting toybreaker:


On the passenger side unibody section in front of the strut are a few mission critical harness connectors. They are somewhat hidden by the airflow meter and other stuff, so they're hard to see.

Circled in red, the rectangular connector is the power distribution connector for the car.

Circled in yellow, the triangular connector is the connection down to the starter solenoid.



If they are both plugged in, and the car won't crank, (as in rotate when you have the key in the start position) unplug the starter harness and check for power at the car side of the harness while the key is in the start postion. (you're checking the black with yellow stripe wire)



If there's nobody home on the car side of the starter solenoid harness, unplug the clutch down switch and try again. The switches go bad, and the little yellow plastic button that depresses it also gets broken. This will prevent the starter from operating. Unplugging the switch opens the interlock circuit, and will allow the starter to operate any time the key is in the start position.

[edit]

found this old post

[/edit]





If you want a quick go/no go test, jumping positive battery voltage onto the mate of this ^^^connector^^^ is the easiest way to "jump" the system. Note it's position in the connector, and jump the mate to this connector using an alligator clip on the end of a wire. **I would be leary of doing this, as the current required to pull the starter solenoid in to actuate the starter motor is pretty large, and you may damage the pin in the connector. (once would probably be okay, but I wouldn't make a habit of it)


The hard way to "jump" things is to unplug that wire at the starter, then plug another wire onto the small connector, and then touch that to the positive terminal on the battery.

If you're feeling froggy, you can also just short accross from the positive starter feed wire from the battery to the small terminal with a small screwdriver, but there's gonna be sparks! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif

Make absolutely sure the car is in neutral before doing this!!!



Here's a pic of the whole starter sub-harness to give you an idea of what you're working with.

Good luck!



Gabe,

Look at that last pic carefully.

You can see the all the wires needed to make the starter work.

Make sure they are all hooked up and good luck!
 

If I remember correctly, the GVR4 starter harness is different from the DSMs. So if you used the DSM harness, that could be your problem & you should see 1 or 2 loose connectors (not 100% sure, it's been a while) not plugged into anything.
 

TRBODSM

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 4, 2009
Messages
278
Location
Northglenn, CO
Is there a good ground on the wiring that goes to the starter? Did you check the back of the starter to make sure all wiring is still in tact and plugged in? I did a starter swap once and the small spade connector on the back of the starter wiggled loose and was causing the car to not crank. Plugged it in and started right up.
 

coolclean577

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 30, 2010
Messages
191
Location
Omaha NE
thanks you guys , ill take a look at it this weekends bec it at my step dad shop bec i cant have it sittin at my apt anymore. and i using the galant harness...
 
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned
Top