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Help, got the car started, it won't go in gear

Here we go.

So I had the wrong pressure plate clutch combo and it resulted in the car turning over slowly without starting. I finally dropped the tranny and installed a new clutch and pp. I then had the problem of my clutch not disengaging. I shimmed the pivot ball and sent my clutch pedal assem. to sheps. After about a week and a half sheps sent it back and it was installed. The car still won't go into gear wtf? I have not driven this thing it about 8 month, I'm broke all the time due to rent and bills. When I release the clutch pedal it won't come off the floor more then 4 inches or so. I tried bleeding the clutch yet it still won't come all the way up now their is also a noise that develops from within the bell housing. I know this is a lot to take it. Let me know if you need me to clarify. Why won't this thing disengage. This car is like a boat that is drowning, one whole gets plugged another develops.
 

jmorri15

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Joined
Jul 11, 2009
Messages
171
Location
Kemp, TX
the first question i have is what kind of noise are you hearing in the bell housing? have you adjusted the clutch pedal after reinstalling it? if its properly bled it sounds like a pedal problem. also make sure the trans is tight to the block. im off on friday if you cant figure it out we could meet up.
 

Some rattle that wasn't their when I had he transaxle off berorbinstalling it unwanted to are ifbl indeed it was the clutch combo that was the problem before putting everything backbone together...I really don't know where to start. I am starting to lose hope in the 4g63 to be honest. I could scoop u and drop u off somewhere if u want..I live in haymarket Va near manassas.
 

Diego

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Dec 9, 2007
Messages
2,132
Location
In a van down by the river, Iowa
Check the clutch master to make sure its not that.
 

jmorri15

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Joined
Jul 11, 2009
Messages
171
Location
Kemp, TX
dude dont give up, this should be a fix we could knock out in an afternoon. i live in laurel md but i can meet you somewhere in va.
 

thanks for the support man...like i said i could scoop u if need be...gas is a bia..really appreciate. you've got pm.
 

Please read this link and follow the procedure for adjusting the clutch:
link

Have someone check the clutch fork travel as you depress the clutch and report back.
 

The fork is leaning more to the drivers side when it is released, actually after I pull the clutch medal all the way back by hand. This is due to the shimming obviously. I have clutch sitting on the end of the clutch master cylinder rode. Yet the slave rod starts to move when the pedal is half way down ...No pressure at all. Bled the system like 7 times. You may need to break this thing down for me big bird style lol. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 

Barnes

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Joined
Feb 9, 2003
Messages
6,249
Location
Richland, WA
Did you bench bleed the master cylinder before you put it in? What procedure are you using to bleed the clutch hydraulic system?
 

Pump the clutch a few times, hold it down, open the bleeder it bubbles, close the bleeder. repeat.
 

Barnes

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Feb 9, 2003
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Richland, WA
And you did this until there were no bubbles? Did you make ABSOLUTELY sure that the master cylinder never ran dry?
 

KiNgMaRtY

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Apr 8, 2008
Messages
835
Location
Corona, CA
Quoting usethe4ce:
Yet the slave rod starts to move when the pedal is half way down ...No pressure at all. Bled the system like 7 times. You may need to break this thing down for me big bird style lol. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif


Also could be a worn pedal if the rod is not moving at all till you press the pedal half way down if you have already adjusted the pedal through the master cylinder rod

EDIT: It was pointed out to me that he has had his pedal rebuilt already, so that eliminates that possibility
 
Last edited:

Barnes

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Feb 9, 2003
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6,249
Location
Richland, WA
I think he got his pedal assembly fixed up at Shep, so this shouldn't be an issue.
 

I can break it down Big Bird style /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

You said that you had to "pull the clutch pedal all the way back by hand" and also that "When I release the clutch pedal it won't come off the floor more then 4 inches or so"? If the pedal is sticking to the floor then that indicates a leak in the hydraulic system. If the pedal is only 4 inches off the floor then either the cruise control switch/adjusting bolt is out of whack or the pedal assembly was welded incorrectly. The spec is 7 inches from the pedal face to the firewall. These specs can be found in the link I posted previously: Clutch Adjustment

Moving on...
These are the components of the hydraulic system:
Clutch master cylinder
Hydraulic hard line from master to framerail
Hydraulic soft line from frame rail to transmission.
Hydraulic hard line from transmission to clutch slave cylinder.
Clutch slave cylinder

Check for brake fluid underneath the clutch master cylinder on the firewall in the engine bay and in the interior.

Check for leaks at each connection listed above.

Check the hydraulic soft line for cracks or bulges.

Pull the boot back from around the rod of the clutch slave cylinder and check for leakage.

If there are no leaks at any of those points and ASSuming that there is no issue with the clutch (a popped spring would prevent clutch release), pressure plate, clutch adjustment(from the link I posted earlier) or air in the lines then all that is left is the clutch master cylinder.

You mentioned that the clutch master cylinder is new. Is it an aftermarket or OEM master cylinder? I've seen more than a handful of posts over the years from people having clutch problems like you describe with a new aftermarket clutch master cylinder.

First step is to figure out why the pedal is only 4 inches from the firewall. If the pedal is adjusted incorrectly then you don't have full travel and the clutch will not disengage even in everything else is ok.
 

mikus

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 11, 2007
Messages
2,763
Location
Aurora IL
^ excellent post. Assume nothing -- qualify suspects by symptoms, then eliminate by process.
Keep calm and carry on, apply beer liberally.
 

Thanks Dark but I checked everything listed and nothing. The clutch is and pp are brand new. I made a vid of he slave as I pressed in the clutch and I'm getting about an inch of travel ( guesstimating)....? Bigbird would be proud peace . /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif
 

Boost4U

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Joined
Jun 25, 2011
Messages
133
Location
Hampton, VA
What condition is the slave cylinder and throw out bearing in? Is the slave tight to the trans?
 

Barnes

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Joined
Feb 9, 2003
Messages
6,249
Location
Richland, WA
I'm tempted to say you should build a vacuum plate. Anyone know if you can pull a vacuum at the top of the clutch master cylinder and not mess anything up?
 
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