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hx40 6blade w/bep housing

I know this is a direct bolt up for my 4g63t but what else do I need to set this hx40 6blade w/bep housing to my car?
 

OMFGeofffff

Well-known member
Joined
May 5, 2006
Messages
867
Location
Burnsville, MN
First off it'd be nice to know what is already done to your car?
 

cheekychimp

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 19, 2004
Messages
7,333
Location
East Sussex, U.K.
Well, whilst your success with this turbo like any other relies on the tuning of the car, be aware that this is a 500+ hp capable turbo. It flows around 65 lbs which means if your car is currently stock you are going to need to look at your fuel system. You may well need a bigger pump, you may get away with the stock fuel line and filter but you will need much larger injectors. You are then going to require something to tune the fuel delivery and get the car to idle with the additional fuel. These turbos are designed for high boost pressures and whilst they spool pretty quickly want to be pushed to at least 30 psi if possible. Your intake, intercooler setup and head all need to be in very good shape to withstand in excess of 2 bar of boost. The same goes for your rods and pistons. The stock block is good for 500 hp but only with careful tuning and 30 psi is a lot of boost for stock pistons and rods, unless you are very careful, failures can easily occur here.

Despite the fact that the turbo bolts straight up, it's still big and the Galant engine bay is far more cramped than the 1G. You may have to clock the turbo, dent the water pipe and even possibly look at different radiator options to make it fit. Too much oil pressure will also blow the seals on the turbo very quickly so you will need a much bigger oil drain than stock which means modifying the oil pan for a larger return fitting and looking at a large diameter oil return line.

Once you have addressed that and start making power, your clutch, transmission and remaining drivetrain parts are going to start hating you and may even fail. Get that sorted and I'd seriously consider better brakes and tyres unless you want to end up in a ditch or a wall.

Although turbos are described as bolt on, it unfortunately is rarely as simple as just bolting one up to get reliable 500+ hp. There is a lot of other work involved and things to consider.
 

donniekak

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2009
Messages
748
Location
surprise az
To actually answer your question, you need oil feed, and return lines, and a wastegate system like this.
ssmvsrecircpckge.jpg


It will also require some adjustments to the intercooler piping.
 

thecman02

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 3, 2007
Messages
917
Location
Kalamazoo,MI
I'll just list the issues I had with my setup. bep hx40.

First issue is denting the waterpipe. I had an FP Race Manifold and I had to do quite a bit of crushing on the water pipe to fit the compressor housing clocked with the 2.5 exit in a stock configuration. If you can fab intercooler pipes for a down firing setup you won't have to crush the waterpipe nearly as much.

Second issue with the install was the front motor mount. My drain was blocked by part of the mount so I had to grind it down to make it fit.

Third issue is blocking off all the old coolant lines either by looping or getting the 90 water pipe and thermostat housing.

Fourth issue I had was oil feed. Using the head is inadequate oil pressure for feeding the turbo. It wants between 20psi at idle and really no more than 70-80psi at redline, with about 30-40 when spooling. You need to feed off the oil filter housing and you need an oil pressure gauge T'ed in after the feed restrictor to fine tune and get the right oil pressure range.

Fifth issue was routing the intake for the turbo. Since I go to the track and couldn't afford the appropriate cutoff switch setup for a trunk mount battery setup I had limited space in the engine bay for a nice intake routing. I ended up getting an ETS intake setup with a 4" to 3" reducing 90 degree silicon coupler. If you don't track or can get a nice/legal trunk setup you can get away with a FP style 4" intake that places the filter where the battery would be. You could also do a battery relocation where the charcoal canister used to be. Either way it will take some money/fabrication to work. If you go speed density you can just run a filter off the turbo.

Sixth issue I had was fitting the O2 housing. I had an old punishment racing recirculating setup. This was before Tial released the vband wastegate. My wastegate was hitting the radiator so I had to change my radiator setup. I still had/have working AC so I couldn't do the AFCO Sirroco setup. I got an expensive two row half size raidiator from Koyo. I also had to buy a slimfan because of how tight it was in the engine bay.

I'll post pictures of the madness later. If your doing this to have a great turbo for a cheap price your not going to be happy. If your doing it to be different you'll be happy. My recommendation is to save some $$ and save your self grief and time and get a FP3X series turbo that will fit much nicer.

Oh and my turbo ended up blowing due to the dreaded turbine shaft snapping that some hx40's seem to have trouble with. I was boosting 35psi on the track when it let go. So I never got a 1/4 time.

 
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