--Suggestions needed, finally taking block in for work--

[mean_green]

Well after close to a year w the motor out of the Galant Ive finally come back to this project and have some fund to get it ready for winter duties...

Im staying w the stock pistons and rods, crank all that. Doing some new oem rings, ARP hardware everywhere and ACL bearings. New Ferrea valve seals and guides. Then some extra goodies along the way like a Kiggly Main Girdle.

With the jist of the rebuild there, there's a few things I need help on. Like what machinist processes do I need to make sure happen to ensure this build lasts me for DD and some weekend warrior fun?

As suggested to me on here Im going to get the head checked for flatness, then depending on the difficulty of the seals and guides I might attempt them or just have the guy do them. What else should I look into having done to the head?

The block of course is going to get a hone for the new pistons, what else should I have done. I understand I need a line hone done w the ARP main studs. I need to have the machinist tell me if I need stock sized rod and crank bearings or need to order the size over. But after that I dont have a clue whats going on.

A few other things I noticed while searching around but am not sure if I need are thurst washers. I know these are a big deal w 7bolts to keep the crank walk issue down but do I need them? At all? Or are they a good safety investment? Along w thurst washers I found some Main Bearing Cap Alignment Dowels on Extreme PSI that seem like a good idea. I just want this block to be as reliable and bullet proof as possible so Im exploring every option.

The last thing for now is a technique I read a little about somewhere about how increasing the diameter and depth of the chamfer on the oil supply holes can really help the oil flow and prevent crank walk etc, is this a worth while idea to persue and would a general machinist be able to figure this out if I brought it up or is it something more fragile than that?

TIA very much,
-Alan

 

1. If you're going to reuse stock pistons, you're power goals aren't high enough to need main studs and a main girdle. Save your money.

2. When changing valve guides, it is highly recommended that a valve job be performed also. In a worst case scenario, guides only can result in the valve to seat improperly, a valve job eliminates this possibility.

3. It's highly recommended to have the cylinder bores measured. More often than not, reusing pistons isn't an option, having this checked will tell you if you can or not.

4. Thrust washers are actually built into the center main bearing.

5. Having the rods re-sized is a good idea.

6. Deck the block, head gaskets seal much better that way.

7. As for the question about the oiling holes, most machine shops do that automatically when they turn a crank.