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whats everyone running for Suspension?

Brunoboy

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Joined
Apr 25, 2008
Messages
2,880
Location
San Bruno,CA Home of SFO
First Time I went to a track event was yesterday, Thunder Hill in Willows CA, and it was awesome, So now im wondering what everyone is running for suspension set ups? how do you like it? and what do you use it for? If I were to drag my car, and wanna do an occasional track event, what should I be looking at? Thanks
-Shane
 

Olson

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Joined
Oct 7, 2006
Messages
1,237
Location
Moreno Valley CA
Talk to conrad about my suspension on my galant (Hotbits)
 

Diego

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Joined
Dec 9, 2007
Messages
2,132
Location
In a van down by the river, Iowa
Bruno I use GR2 and H&R springs, good for overall besides, auto x, and stuff.


Drag I would use full or 3/5 way adjustable AGXs, loved these on my 1g Eclipse GSX, I could raise lower just by turning a cset screw....
 

Brunoboy

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Joined
Apr 25, 2008
Messages
2,880
Location
San Bruno,CA Home of SFO
Thanks guys, uhm I already have AGX adjustables with HnR springs, but its stiff but not stiff enough. and I hate the fact I cannot lower it. body roll sucks.
 

4thStroke

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Joined
Oct 22, 2007
Messages
1,864
Location
Vancouver, WA
Get the thickest swaybars you can find.

Replace bushings.

Install Whiteline caster bushings.

Add strut tower bars. The difference isn't that noticeable, but every little bit helps. I have eBay strut bars, its tough to f*** those up.
 

H05TYL

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Joined
Jun 9, 2007
Messages
752
Location
Wgtn, NZ
Quoting brunoboy:
I hate the fact I cannot lower it. body roll sucks.



Actually unless you address the lower arm geometry (RCA's to lower the outer balljoints relative to the spindle at the front - god knows at the rear) lowering the car will make it roll more, why? because although the centre of gravity drops, the roll centre drops much further - increased distance between the CoG and roll centre essentially gives the weight more leverage to roll the car - not good.

I wouldn't necessarily go for bigger anti-roll bars though, as they affect (lessen) diagonal weight transfer.

There are plenty of books (both in library's and online) about handling that explain things far better than I can though.
 

4thStroke

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Joined
Oct 22, 2007
Messages
1,864
Location
Vancouver, WA
A strut that absorbs the pavement better than AGXs may also be desirable. You may want to look into an Evo strut swap, it seems to be a very cost effective upgrade.

As far as the roll bars go, I've never experienced larger roll bars having an adverse affect. If it improved handling characteristics, it was worth it. In my case, it helped.

Did you delete the rear steer? Getting rid of the active rear toe may also be something worth looking into. I have yet to do that, but will eventually. All it does is induce understeer, from what I've gathered.
 

turbofonz

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 27, 2006
Messages
475
Location
Granby, MA
Evo8 struts with Tein Stech springs. Rides quite firm, handles very flat.

No where near as stiff as my 1g on coilovers, but it's perfect IMO for the VR4. i will be autocrossing the car soon and i'm sure it will do great. Got a big rear sway bar and 245 wide tires, the car handles VERY well considereing the whole spring/strut combo was about $250 for low mileage parts.

Much nicer than the GR2/ H and R setup I had before. Not as cushy, but firmer and more aggressive, and lower... which I was looking for.
 

H05TYL

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Joined
Jun 9, 2007
Messages
752
Location
Wgtn, NZ
Quoting 4thStroke:

As far as the roll bars go, I've never experienced larger roll bars having an adverse affect. If it improved handling characteristics, it was worth it. In my case, it helped.





Bigger roll bars will help to correct the extra roll that's induced when you lower the car and shift the roll centre - they can even give less roll than stock, the car may feel better, it'll probably be faster than before too, but it'll be faster still if you pay attention to getting the geometry right.

Read this: link How to make your car handle - racing chassis racecar engineering .pdf

and this: link Tune to win, by Caroll Smith .pdf


It's similar to how you can roughly tune a car with an s-afc, sufficiently to make some power and not blow it up - but something that gives better control of fuel and ignition timing will allow you to get the tune closer to ideal, and thus make more power.

If you want to compete, near enough isn't really good enough.
 

Tre3zy

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 25, 2008
Messages
602
Location
South San Francisco, CA
Quoting Olson:
Talk to conrad about my suspension on my galant (Hotbits)



might get a set of this.... sucks i didnt get a chance to ride in your car when you were here....
 

GreenGSX

Well-known member
Joined
May 15, 2005
Messages
681
Location
Rochester, New York
With the VR4 and the 1st Gen Eclipse/Talon I've found that lowering the car too much can have an adverse effect on its handling. I've also learned that "flat handling" sounds like the perfect set-up but in the real world that really only applies to full race cars. Everybody else is going to need some degree of suspension movement to spare your kidneys while driving on the streets and to have a car that allows the driver to transfer weight from corner to corner to maximize grip and rotation. In simple terms you need suspension travel at all four corners. That gets you back to not dropping the ride height too much and not going nuts with the spring rates or over damped struts.

This is the path we took with the One Lap VR4. Its affordable, durable, and most of the parts can be found used at good prices.

1. some sort of coil over kit. Either GC or DSS with 400lb front and 350lb rear spings.
2. Koni yellow shocks/struts. AGX rear shocks are way too stiff. They ruin the ride and make it hard to dial in oversteer.
3. Urethane front/rear bushings.
4. Get a set of rear sub-frame mustache brace bushings from tunersnation
5. RM, ST, or whiteline rear sway bar. Leave the front bar stock but replace the bushings.
6. remove the rear steering and weld up the rear trailing arms. This will actually hurt your transitional grip but the improved rotation on corner entry more then makes up for it.
7. RRE castor/camber plates for a 1G. some drilling/cutting of the strut towers needed but added castor really improves the camber curve.
8 Strut tower bars F/R
9. get as much wheel/tire as you can afford.
10. Find an alignment that suits you and the car. We use about -2.5 camber with 1/8 inch of total toe out in the front and -2.0 camber with 1/8" total toe out in the rear.

With this set-up we were able to do 0.872g through the sprinklers and 0.935g on a cold/wet dry skid pad. Those numbers were from last year before we added any aero.
 

curtis

Well-known member
Joined
May 4, 2003
Messages
11,892
Location
Clarksville TN
Future of mine includes
evo 8 struts front and rear
tein camber plates
stock front sway bar with heim joint rod ends (ebay score)
rear sway bar is part dsm ends and the radius and center is from a 94/95 Mustang GT. (yea Curtis is up to tricks again) with heim joint ends.
full poly bushings front rear everywhere, motor mounts new carrier bearings as well as poly mounts there as well.
May do heim joint control arms or just weld in flat bar to stiffen things up.
subframe connectors , first mod to the car ever.
Mustache brace that team one lap used 2 years ago as well as rear subframe and mustache bushings
also front and rear strut tower braces.

Here's the thread I started on the bar a couple years ago (pictures included). Damn I need to finish this car.
 
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