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Witeline Anti-lift kit

Ralli380Gvr4

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 27, 2006
Messages
587
Location
BOULDERADO/UWS-NYC/BURQUE
I'm curious if anyone has any experience or results. In Laymans terms it helps retain alignment after hard braking and corning and improves steering response.

Data:
Whiteline ALK article:CLICK...example in a wrx.

Here is also a definition from Whiteline:
Whiteline ALK adds approximately +0.5 deg static caster to both front wheels while changing the nature of front anti-dive and anti-lift geometry. The low-compliance polyurethane bushings also maintain higher dynamic positive caster.

Anti Geometry percentage was calculated and an improvement to the anti-geometry via a repositioning of the rearward lower control arm suspension mounting height aided in the increase of suspension articulation. A reduction in caster loss during braking was also aided through the low compliance bushings and offsetting the bushing for increased static caster angle aids in the vehicle straight line stability and reduction in steering effort through increased negative camber angle.

Here is a very good read from the owner of Whiteline: "suspension secrets" CLICK...it also mentions the VR4's rear steering.

After doing some research I wanted to see if there is any real world results.
 
Last edited:

Whoodoo

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 11, 2009
Messages
927
Location
Binghamton, NY
Hey, good info. Thanks for the post. I doubt, however, that there would be much real world application in this area for GVR4's. Possibly you might be able to find some info on rally cars, but rally is a fairly extreme application. The FSAE car here at school has quite a bit of anti squat/dive adjustability in its suspension and I can say that it does make a big difference in the way the car feels, especially under braking. If you wanted to look into it yourself, a great place for everything racecar suspension related is 'Race Car Vehicle Dynamics' by Milliken and Milliken. Its a hefty book, but there is more info in there just on suspension mechanics to last you a lifetime.
 

curtis

Well-known member
Joined
May 4, 2003
Messages
11,892
Location
Clarksville TN
Ethan I just went out and stuck my head under the car. the very aft mounting point on the car is just like the ones above but on my car is hard to tell because everything is removed in the engine bay and there's about 5 inches between my fender and the top of the tire. But changing this looks to be rather simple. They said the subaru's were 20mm lower so you could do that with just spacing what we have lower with new grade 8 hardware. I didn't look real close at the area above the bushing but if its not movable you could get 2 of the half moon pieces from a donor galant/mitsubishi at the junkyard flip them to on top and move the centerline down until its instant center and angle is where you want it. With a larger bolt welded solid and a half moon piece on top and bottom the height could be adjustable with a nut on the top and a nut on the bottom. But the bolt and nuts need to be fine pitch and large because its going to be supporting all the weight. After the correct height is found then an aluminum block could be machined and milled out for the factory size bushing minus .5mm so it could be pressed in.


Might be able to help more if my car wasn't in a million and 12 pieces but measurements from mine would do no good. Maybe someone with an Iphone and an angle finding app (MR NEW SCHOOL ONE LAP MAN /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif ) can get the angles needed then we could pull up the drawings of the car and figure where the cg of the car is and then know how far it needs to be lowered. This is something the one lap car needs before spring so it can get some testing done before May. I'll give Rance a call and see if he has any input on this.
 
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