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Nuts and Bolts that won't rust?

VR4ownzU

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Nov 10, 2003
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Location
Orlando, FL
Where can you find stainless, cool, balling, nuts and bolts that won't rust. Looking to clean up my engine bay. Maybe a large assortment of them?
 

fivestardsm

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Sep 8, 2006
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Middle, Michigan
Fastenal

Stainless will be spendy, but bueaty always is.
 

Dan D

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Feb 27, 2001
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Brownsburg, IN
Be careful where you use stainless. Galvanic corrosion will kick you ass and make you a long term Jack Stand Baller when they start galling and stripping and you have to repair every thread on the car.

If you do use stainless into dissimilar metals, especially where there is heat, make sure and use the correct lubricant/anti seize. The nickle based stuff will work ok, but if you want extra insurance look at the stainless specific anti seize lubes from TS-moly. They're pricey but work.
 

turbowop

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Apr 29, 2001
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11,971
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Yakima, WA
Just buy factory bolts/nuts and keep 'em clean. They stay corrosion free if you keep them out of the salt. Luckily, all the bolts on 1051 still pretty much look new due to this.
 

VR4ownzU

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My subaru did look good when I bought it last fall but I swear one winter did not do it good. Doesn't help it has hood vents with tiny holes /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
 
Last edited:

JNR

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Apr 23, 2004
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ca
most of the fasteners are the same size (M6, M8) so you can buy bulk and save. I have a thing for buttonhead and so I replaced most of the hardware with those and it hardly cost anything...I just made a list of the various fasteners' sizes and ordered appropriately. OEM bolts *can* be made to stay alright if you periodically coat them with oils and such, but if you don't have a garage-car, they will eventually start looking nasty. Most of mine are still in good shape and look alright, but don't compare to stainless as far as making it look good /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

edit - while you can buy *some* stuff at a good hardware store, you'll need to go thru mcmaster-carr or grainger, etc. if you don't want to get reamed by an aftermarket shop. Even so, they can get $$$, as a heads up (I get things t cost, so that helped /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif )
 
Last edited:

gtluke

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Sep 16, 2001
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dirty jersey
i don't think anyone stocks our size bolts. we have a finer pitch than most metric bolts.
and never EVER use stainless on your car.
 

Barnes

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Feb 9, 2003
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Richland, WA
Why never ever use stainless? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 

BoostedAWD91

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Mar 1, 2007
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Danville,Pa
Ace Hardware has a great selection of Metric bolts, and they have Chrome plated bolts as well if u wanna rice it up alittle /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

14u2nV

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Jul 22, 2004
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Agency/St. Joe, MO
Ace is where I got a bunch of hex heads for the ex mani, turbo flange, valve cover, etc. As far as keeping them clean, maybe wax them or coat them in clear once they are installed. Should add some protection.
 

JNR

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Yeah, I'm not sure why you wouldn't want to use stainless? The only place that may not be the best idea is to fasten the turbo to manifold, or something like that. Personally, I've had no problems using them. Where you need to be careful is where there is a higher strength application (class 10.9); although typically 'stronger' than an 8.8 (or 5 in sae), it may or may not be adequate to use your run-of-the-mill SS (check specs...many are made in china now, so use with caution /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif )

As for the pitch, it is a 'standard' metric thread, but it's never easy to find stainless metric hardware at your typical chain (home depot). As I mentioned above, unless you like wasting money, buy them in bulk at a warehouse, and save; sell the remainders if you want and it'll pay for itself.
 

Rausch

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Dec 21, 2004
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Cleveland, OH
Quoting BoostedAWD91:
Ace Hardware has a great selection of Metric bolts



That's cause:

Ace is the place with the helpful hardware
Prime's got a spare, it's truth or dare.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

JNR

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Apr 23, 2004
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ca
they lettin you play spin the bottle now? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

bazeng

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Feb 6, 2003
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Melbourne, Australia
I find that all my bolts (new ones) get rusty..

I have no idea why, but they do.

I don't live near the ocean or anything. I'm thinking something to do with the electrical system?
 

gtluke

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Sep 16, 2001
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dirty jersey
Quoting BarnesMobile:
Why never ever use stainless? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif



they gall, and bend.
i learned this lesson the hard way on my mustang. i put all new stainless bolts in my rear suspension. they all bent, and then the nuts wouldn't come off, the nuts were like gall welded to the bolts. i pretty much had to sawzall them all out of the body. it sucked balls.
stainless sheetmetal screws work great though /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

i would get black oxide bolts. i can't find anyone who sells bulk bolts our size though. even mcmaster doesn't, neither does fastenal.
i'd like to buy an assortment of our bolts with 10 12 and 14mm heads.
i refused to use bolts with 13 and 15mm heads, that's bullshit.
 

Barnes

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Feb 9, 2003
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Richland, WA
Well. Yes and no. I think finding stainless fasteners that will replace the stock components is possible, but very hard and/or expensive.

Galling can be avoided by using liberal (just for gtluke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif) amounts of quality anti-seize.

The bending can be avoided by using a better grade of stainless steel. This is where it gets expensive. As far as I can tell from a cursory search the only grade 8 (10.9 on our cars) equivalent stainless material is Bumax 109. They make the nuts and bolts we use. However, just looking at Bumax 88 fasteners on McMaster Carr, I'm guessing the Bumax 109 stuff is even more prohibitively expensive. Only place I found that sells them is an outfit in New Zealand. However they never address in their documentation how they deal with galling. Again, can be addressed with anti-seize worst case.

If you can find fittings made from Nitronic 60 you will avoid the galling problem. However, they are only about as strong as grade 5 (8.8 bolts on our cars). I think some folks make these, but I'm not sure.

Overall, I'd leave important stuff up to stock bolts. A nice new stock bolt is zinc plated and should be fairly resistant to corrosion.

Have a ball in non-critical applications while keeping galling in mind. You should be able to use stainless steel bolts in regular steel nuts, or vice-versa, without galling concerns. Example: Valve cover. Even better, places where you will be putting a stainless fastener in plastic.
 

Dialcaliper

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Jun 22, 2007
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Mountain View, CA
Stainless is going to be an arm and a leg. A much cheaper option is just to take the existing bolts to a steel plating shop and have them cleaned and plated with zinc or zinc dichromate (the gold/yellow coating on many of the stock bolts). Even if the plating is damaged, the zinc will still chemically protect the steel.

Using stainless for things like suspension links is a pretty bad idea - the stuff that's actually robust and corrosion resistant is rather weak and brittle. All of the high-tensile "stainless" steels (like 440C) have pretty low corrosion resistance. And if it will see winter salt exposure, stainless can actually be a worse choice than bare steel.

Also, stainless has a huge issue with seizing and galling on any part that will be moving or seeing vibration, and not just on the threads. Stainless is great for non-structural applications, but anything important should be steel unless you're willing to shell out money on some fairly exotic alloys.
 

Barnes

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Feb 9, 2003
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Richland, WA
Uhg. I'm just let DialCaliper post all the technical sh*t from now on.
 

Rausch

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Dec 21, 2004
Messages
12,049
Location
Cleveland, OH
Quote:
i refused to use bolts with 13 and 15mm heads, that's bullshit.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif +1 That annoys the pewp out of me.

RE; Black oxide: Not pretty, but I would venture a guess that your local Bolt and screw should carry something in the sizes you would need. That is damn near the epitome of function over form, as they are most definitely not ballin, nor blingy.

Just paint the heads with a chrome rattle can. (actually, you could have the heads powder coated if all you were looking for is pretty...Might even be cheaper than the plating options, albeit far less beneficial)
 

JNR

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Apr 23, 2004
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9,814
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ca
Another option to consider, if you want to be different is to use a different head style within the same material/grade. Like socket cap screws (allen heads). Howeever, keep in mind that you will need to hold it or put torque on it in some cases and you need access; don't rely on the 30 deg. ball end of the hex key either, lol.

Otherwise, just replace with some quality pieces that meet or exceed the existing class (metric) or grade (sae). As I mentioned, I replaced many of mine with SS buttonhead, but also mix it with other styles/varities. I cannot stand chrome (which weakens, btw) or other fake things on hardware, except in rare cases. Meaning, don't just put on ricer fasteners to look cool, ha ha. If you ever take notice of a well built piece of equipment (e.g. engine), you'll start noticing part of what makes it stand out many times is the hardware and its subtle beauty or lackthereof (least to me)
 
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