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Whiteline 26mm rear sway bar install question

jepherz

Staff member
Joined
Aug 8, 2004
Messages
7,877
Location
KC, Missouri
I'm trying to get the D brackets on the bar with no luck; they seem too wide no matter what. I don't have access to a die grinder to perform the grinds that the how-to from Beemer suggests, are there any other ways to get these things on with the subframe still on the car? HALP!
 

When I put my rear swaybar on, the shop had to drop the rear subframe a bit to get it in.
 

spooling92vr4

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 7, 2005
Messages
2,511
Location
long island, NY
what do you mean they are too wide? the holes where they bolt up? I used a drill or a dremel for mine, I did mine with the subframe in the car etc. I still havent put the swaybar links on yet though
 

jepherz

Staff member
Joined
Aug 8, 2004
Messages
7,877
Location
KC, Missouri
As you can see in the last pic, in order for the bolts to fit into the stock threads, the heads would be hitting the bracket itself so they never go in straight. I'm going to try some longer bolts and maybe shave the bracket down a bit? What have you other whiteline users been able to do to get them to fit?



Quick pic of my concurrent intstall:
 
Last edited:

CP

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2004
Messages
8,938
Location
West Simsbury, CT
Just grind the hole a bit.

Nice looking coilover external resevoirs.
 

I had that problem and made aluminum spacers that were curved at the bottom and flat at the top along with slighlty longer bolts to effectively extend the bolt heads so they would not interfere with the sides of the bracket. Also I used socket head cap screws which are narrower than hex head bolts and don't require socket clearance.
Mike R.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

jepherz

Staff member
Joined
Aug 8, 2004
Messages
7,877
Location
KC, Missouri
On the front at the back? Mine are on top just at the back, and that's the way i've seen all sets set-up.

CP, the problem isn't the bolt hole, the problem is the bolt head hits the side of the bracket.
 

kartorium

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Joined
Jan 14, 2002
Messages
2,962
Location
ellensburg,wa
I used long exhaust studs on mine. Then made D washers and spacers out of ground down nuts. Then I the nut that actually holds everything down went on last, effectively making it near the top of the bracket where there is more room for the nut and to tighten it. I also elongated the holes in the bracket, or extended them into the D portion of the bracket. IIRC you have to elongate the holes no matter what....I could be wrong though.
 

atc250r

Staff member
Joined
Sep 11, 2003
Messages
13,235
Location
Orange County, NY
My ST rear bar came with allen head bolts for those bushings. A well equipped hardware store should have some in the 8mmx1.25 size you'll need. I'm surprised Whiteline doesn't include them in the kit, I thought they were more of a high end manufacturer. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

John
 

jepherz

Staff member
Joined
Aug 8, 2004
Messages
7,877
Location
KC, Missouri
well, I ended up getting longer bolts and squishing the D brackets in a little bit. The bushings don't exactly look happy, but then went in and are completely around the bar. Hopefully I have no problems. Thanks for the suggestions everyone.
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
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Joined
Mar 5, 2001
Messages
10,964
Location
Michigan
You have been keeping secrets jeffer-ee. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
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