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Potential all aluminum bolt in radiators?

Ben

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Jan 14, 2009
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199
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Lubbock, Tx
This may have already come up, but I haven't found anything about it here.
Has any one tried one of these radiators?:
click

I realize this one is located in China:
click


I'm wondering if they are made for the eclipse and not galant due to there being a spot for 2 cooling fans on the engine side. I Also wonder about the quality. They might be the same radiator.

Haha, another edit:
I just noticed, the cap is on the radiator.

Just doesn't seem feasible for someone to make this 20+ years later.
 
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pot

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Oct 28, 2003
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Location
Fayetteville, NC
Both radiators are fine however for more specific information use the search function and you'll see there exists multiple threads on this topic to include specific information on the first link you posted. It took me a moment but there is relevant information on here. That said, I have purchased one of these aluminum radiators previously. The majority of them (based upon my limited experience) all seem to be from the same jig. The length, width, and height are pretty good and resemble the OEM unit. It was the mounting points for the factory Radiator Fan that shied me away from keeping mine. That and the Radiator Fan Switch Bung had to be tapped in order to fit where I finally threw in the towel and called it quits.

If your going to install an aftermarket fan and don't mind having to tap the bung for the Fan Switch then you should be happy with either of the links you forwarded.
 
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MuffinMan7580

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Aug 6, 2011
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142
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Fort Bragg, NC
An EVO 3 radiator will fit, however, a bit of shimming is needed in order for it to fit snugly, as the height is a bit shorter. As Spatchana said, many don't come a bung for a fan switch. If you decide to have one added, be aware that 3/8" NPT will fit the factory sensor well enough, but the thread is actually m16x1.5, and seals with an o-ring.
 

Ben

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Joined
Jan 14, 2009
Messages
199
Location
Lubbock, Tx
I'll do some more digging.
So the factory fan will not bolt in? I'm going with no because of your second mention of the subject.
I don't mind the drilling and tapping.
 
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turbowop

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Apr 29, 2001
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11,971
Location
Yakima, WA
If any of you have ECMlink you don't even need to tap a bung for the fan switch. Just wire it to the ECU and control it that way.
 

Ben

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Jan 14, 2009
Messages
199
Location
Lubbock, Tx
good point. It's been so long since I've used ECM link I forgot about that. I have it in one of my Galants, but not the stock one this thread is referring to. It will eventually have it. I just need to get this overheating problem fixed this winter.
 

FlyingEagle

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Mar 5, 2005
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1,635
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THE Ottawa
I have the Galant "Aluminum Race" style radiator, and yes, it is likely the same radiator made by one company but marketed all over Ebay and other sites.

The fan mounting tabs are much further out or away from the core, as I found out from installation of a factory fan shroud in my C53a. I used the factory 2/3" shroud and it didn't come nearly flush with the face of the core, not even close. Essentially the core, if you roughly draw line through the middle, and now take into account it is "X" millimeters thicker, now pushes every aspect of getting things fitted to it, all out of whack.

The radiator cap fitment is now quite elevated (to the point because of the radiator being taller) and in the case of my car - required I trim the hood support webbing, because it now sat so high. I could not simply drop the lower radiator support straps, as my North-South subframe support would require a knotch to clear the base of the radiator. This was in comparison to stock high performance C53A radiator that came with my car (thickest OEM core I have measured yet) and having also run a CU233 (IIRC the core package number for Galant radiators) setup, that was thinner corewise than the C53A model, but identical fan and locator pin fitment in every way to the C53A radiator.

Yes, I also had to retap the lower thermal fan switch fitting too and that tap was not cheap! The O-ring that came with the block off cap for the bung on the all aluminum radiator was also flimsy and was made with substandard rubber stuff. I would not have lasted long! Also of note, the radiator cap is one of two styles - same twist on top and diameter of the internal neck area, BUT there are two depths available. I don't know a code difference to mention here but Asian caps have two depths, so be aware of this phenomenon. Whatever cap fits our cars from the factory IS NOT the same depth as the cap for the race aluminum radiators. You have to use the cap they supply or find another quality cap in that depth to match.

If you are still using a full size radiator in the factory positions, it will push a factory fan or thick fan that much further, back into, the engine bay and right at the turbo. It is considerably thicker, front to back!
I had no choice as I have AC on my platform, and only so far I could wiggle the condenser forward, into a new slightly slanted position.

In theory, a stock aluminum radiator and a properly functioning cooling system should do well until you move up past stock frame turbos and start using large heat radiator tubular exhaust parts and so on.

A proper OEM style thermostat at 190 degrees opening, clean cooling jackets/head ports/coolant and a GOOD fan setup, with a working resistor setup, seems to do the trick for many people here until modifications and clearance issues take them away from the mainstream hurd.

If you motor setup is nearly stock is entirely stock, then you have an insulating issue within the cooling system (block side) or you cannot pull the heat out of the radiator (corrosion on the fins/fins falling/blocked tubes) via the fans.

Lots of issues for you guys with the overly complicated resistor fan relay setup. As spatchana mentioned, there are some very good dia threads here for that.

One thing you can test is to switch on the AC and make sure you do have fan operation on however many fans are supposed to turn on when AC pressure is developped. Usually the best "instant" test of your fans without having to trick a relay or get invasive via wire probing and such.

How is your coolant/water mix? What sort of DC voltage do you get in your cooling system?
 
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Ben

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Joined
Jan 14, 2009
Messages
199
Location
Lubbock, Tx
Wow! So much to respond to!! needless to say, I will not be looking any further into this radiator.

My daily driver Galant is still very stock with a small 16g with no plans to upgrade from the stock frame turbo. I also still have A/C.
I know that I have crap coated on the inside of my cooling system because my heater does not get very hot at all and my coolant temps(using a scan tool that logs) are normal to high(not looking forward to replacing the heater core). On a cool morning, the coolant temp heats up and turns the fans on far too soon. Also it overheats on a hot day going 70. I live in Texas.

Yes, my fans come on with the A/C button pushed. Luckily they come on with the A/C button push and the engine off.

I have flushed the cooling system recently and went back with as close as I could get to a 50/50 mix(maybe a little more water) and water wetter.

I was just thinking that if I'm going to replace the radiator, upgrade it to nip this problem in the butt. I am no newbie to Mitsubishis and how little it takes for them to overheat.

I do need to test the voltage in my cooling system.
 
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