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Planning on moving battery to the trunk

alik

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 8, 2006
Messages
357
Location
Boston, MA
I've already ran a wire into the trunk in the process of rewiring the fuel pump. My question is, is this a good box to use?
Or, is there a better solution?

Thanks!
 

15psi88

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Joined
Aug 19, 2009
Messages
101
Location
State College, PA
The box has to be sealed and vented externally if I remember correctly. If you have a sealed agm battery, like an Optima I THINK you can get away without it. I've used This a few times. I would recommend it.
 

EHmotorsports

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Joined
Sep 25, 2012
Messages
1,278
Location
Beaverton
If you plan on racing it at any track it will need to have a safety kill switch as well as a vented sealed box like moroso sells. You will fail any tech inspection if not.
 

alik

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 8, 2006
Messages
357
Location
Boston, MA
Where should the kill switch be mounted?
I'm planning to have the car street-driven as well, and reading through NHRA rules outside kill switch does not seem logical for a city car.

Moroso box
How easy is it to mount this thing in the trunk? Seems like it's plastic, but I'm guessing it's a great deal more sturdy than that stuff Autozone sells? Will it bolt in?

Thanks!

Quoting EHmotorsports:
If you plan on racing it at any track it will need to have a safety kill switch as well as a vented sealed box like moroso sells. You will fail any tech inspection if not.

 

Leon_R

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Joined
Aug 30, 2011
Messages
214
Location
Chelmsford, MA
Do yourself a favor and keep it under the hood!

1. I have seen way too many electrical problems causes by relocation!
2. You will have to deal with the kill switch, if you ever want to take it to the track.
3. You end up making your car HEAVIER!

If you must move it, get a lighter/smaller battery, which will give you more minting options UNDER THE HOOD!
 

coyotes

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Joined
Nov 15, 2013
Messages
1,544
Location
Seattle, WA
I bought a small odyssey battery and mounted it where the air can goes in stock position. making a bracket was simple and used a universal tie down you can buy at the parts store. Didn't have to reroute any wires and used the stock cables. Works great
 

EHmotorsports

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Joined
Sep 25, 2012
Messages
1,278
Location
Beaverton
Check out 1865's build thread. Location and battery is in a spot that won't interfeer and minimal weight.
 

EMX5636

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Joined
Jun 28, 2008
Messages
1,631
Location
Bucks County, PA
Quoting Leon_R:
Do yourself a favor and keep it under the hood!

1. I have seen way too many electrical problems causes by relocation!
2. You will have to deal with the kill switch, if you ever want to take it to the track.
3. You end up making your car HEAVIER!

If you must move it, get a lighter/smaller battery, which will give you more minting options UNDER THE HOOD!



1. If done properly, I have done quite a few relocations with no problems, charging issues/etc.
2. Agree unfortunately (mostly /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif )
3. The weight is probably a toss up, but you are getting a bit better distribution F/R.
 

alik

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 8, 2006
Messages
357
Location
Boston, MA
Quoting Leon_R:
Do yourself a favor and keep it under the hood!

1. I have seen way too many electrical problems causes by relocation!
2. You will have to deal with the kill switch, if you ever want to take it to the track.
3. You end up making your car HEAVIER!

If you must move it, get a lighter/smaller battery, which will give you more minting options UNDER THE HOOD!



Never mind the minting, accepted that there are more mounting options under the hood. However, in the interest of expanding my horizons and learning just a little bit more,
a)why the electrical problems?
b)kill switch, fine, but where?
c)really? How? Same weight is being moved to a different location. Box weight is negligible, so, why heavier?

Not arguing, mind you, just asking so I can form a better-informed decision.
 

Leon_R

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Joined
Aug 30, 2011
Messages
214
Location
Chelmsford, MA
</font><blockquote><font class="small">Quoting alik:</font><hr />

Never mind the minting, accepted that there are more mounting options under the hood. However, in the interest of expanding my horizons and learning just a little bit more,
a)why the electrical problems?
b)kill switch, fine, but where?
c)really? How? Same weight is being moved to a different location. Box weight is negligible, so, why heavier?

Not arguing, mind you, just asking so I can form a better-informed decision.

<hr /></blockquote><font class="post">

Any time you deviate from the OEM solution, you expose yourself to problems! Now, car enthusiasts do modifications all the time, but usually there is some real reward for doing it. What is your reward for moving the battery? “Better weight distributing” for AutoX or Road racing? It is totally theoretical as actual change is minimal! And for drag racing, you actually want more weight in the front! Reliablity will be 100% depended on quality of parts, design and work. But even when done right, more components give you more opportunities for a failure.

As for weight, you will have few extra pounds of HEAVY wiring, battery box and a kill switch. But most people use full size (or bigger) battery in the trunk. So instead of saving a 15-20lbs, by using Odyssey, Miata or loan tractor battery, you end up being 10-15lbs HEAVIER!!! That is up to 35lbs of extra weight… and why, again? For the theoretical “better weight distribution” for road racing?

I can see doing this if you were really into audio stuff and needed extra battery capacity.

</font><blockquote><font class="small">Quoting EMX5636:</font><hr />

1. If done properly, I have done quite a few relocations with no problems, charging issues/etc.

<hr /></blockquote><font class="post">

Until... there are problems <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> Our cars often develop charging problems and when you have relocated battery, you have to first rule that out as the cause of your problem .
 
Last edited:

coyotes

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 15, 2013
Messages
1,544
Location
Seattle, WA
My setup. Didn't have to change any wiring other than put in a new ground cable from the battery.


 

EMX5636

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 28, 2008
Messages
1,631
Location
Bucks County, PA
Quoting Leon_R:

Quoting EMX5636:

1. If done properly, I have done quite a few relocations with no problems, charging issues/etc.



Until... there are problems /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif Our cars often develop charging problems and when you have relocated battery, you have to first rule that out as the cause of your problem .



Saturn Alternator. I've had better luck with a relocated battery and Saturn Alt, than a stock location battery and Mitsu alternator. Just an option.
 

GSTwithPSI

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
3,461
Location
SoCal
</font><blockquote><font class="small">Quoting Leon_R:</font><hr />
</font><blockquote><font class="small">Quoting alik:</font><hr />

Never mind the minting, accepted that there are more mounting options under the hood. However, in the interest of expanding my horizons and learning just a little bit more,
a)why the electrical problems?
b)kill switch, fine, but where?
c)really? How? Same weight is being moved to a different location. Box weight is negligible, so, why heavier?

Not arguing, mind you, just asking so I can form a better-informed decision.

<hr /></blockquote><font class="post">

Any time you deviate from the OEM solution, you expose yourself to problems! Now, car enthusiasts do modifications all the time, but usually there is some real reward for doing it. What is your reward for moving the battery? “Better weight distributing” for AutoX or Road racing? It is totally theoretical as actual change is minimal! And for drag racing, you actually want more weight in the front! Reliablity will be 100% depended on quality of parts, design and work. But even when done right, more components give you more opportunities for a failure.

As for weight, you will have few extra pounds of HEAVY wiring, battery box and a kill switch. But most people use full size (or bigger) battery in the trunk. So instead of saving a 15-20lbs, by using Odyssey, Miata or loan tractor battery, you end up being 10-15lbs HEAVIER!!! That is up to 35lbs of extra weight… and why, again? For the theoretical “better weight distribution” for road racing?

I can see doing this if you were really into audio stuff and needed extra battery capacity.

</font><blockquote><font class="small">Quoting EMX5636:</font><hr />

1. If done properly, I have done quite a few relocations with no problems, charging issues/etc.

<hr /></blockquote><font class="post">

Until... there are problems <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> Our cars often develop charging problems and when you have relocated battery, you have to first rule that out as the cause of your problem .

<hr /></blockquote><font class="post">


I think you are exaggerating a bit. 35 lbs? Everything you need to relocate to the trunk <i>might</i> put you in the neighborhood of 10-12 lbs. The main reason people move the battery to the trunk is to make that space under the hood available for other mods that can't be relocated to the trunk. I doubt anyone here does it for weight savings or better load distribution. There are quite a few members here who have relocated their batteries to the trunk and have never had issues. The charging system isn't negatively affected unless you've done something improperly, so that's a moot point IMO. Trunk relocation isn't the end all be all, but it's the best option for relocating a full size battery in my opinion. Relocating a small battery in place of the charcoal cannister is a good option as well.
 

turbowop

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Joined
Apr 29, 2001
Messages
11,972
Location
Yakima, WA
1051 and 503 both have trunk batteries and have never had an issue with charging or starting. Done right, there shouldn't be any issues. And the added weight is negligible. Back when I moved it to the trunk in 1051, there were few options for smaller batteries to be kept under the hood that didn't have some sort of issue due to quality. That's changed now, so I see no problem choosing either route.
 

Leon_R

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2011
Messages
214
Location
Chelmsford, MA
Quote:
I think you are exaggerating a bit. 35 lbs? Everything you need to relocate to the trunk might put you in the neighborhood of 10-12 lbs.



Really? Then why are you agreeing with me? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif I said TOTOAL, as in, including weight saving from a lighter battery! So 10-15lbs + 10-20lbs from a lighter battery. I LOVE Miata battery, which is 16lbs lighter than original DSM battery.
 

ade

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 16, 2011
Messages
303
Location
Paumanok NY
i like the lighter miata battery, it opened up room in the engine bay. it works great as long as you drive or throw on a charger a few times a week or it goes flat.
G0040257.jpg
 

GSTwithPSI

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
3,461
Location
SoCal
Quoting Leon_R:
Quoting GSTwithPSI:

I think you are exaggerating a bit. 35 lbs? Everything you need to relocate to the trunk might put you in the neighborhood of 10-12 lbs.



Really? Then why are you agreeing with me? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif I said TOTOAL, as in, including weight saving from a lighter battery! So 10-15lbs + 10-20lbs from a lighter battery. I LOVE Miata battery, which is 16lbs lighter than original DSM battery.



I'm not agreeing with you. My point was you are exaggerating the amount of weight added when utilizing a trunk mounted battery, which is true, especially if you start to count weight that could potentially be saved. Regardless of the actual weight added, the typical trunk mounted battery relocation kit won't weigh enough to matter on a street car. The weight added is negligible and is a moot point, as were the other points you put forth IMO.

If you want weight savings on a street car, stay away from McDonalds and roll around with a quarter tank of gas.
 
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