"Thanks prove_it. Did you just stick the tip in the rubber line or what? Can you describe how you did the vacuum routing, where you mounted the solenoid etc...? "
Stick the tip where? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
The restrictor allows the solenoid to work at a lower duty cycle, therefor preventing failure, and does limit spiking and maintains a constant pressure source during shifts. With it set-up right it has the fail safe of returning to WG spring pressure if the solenoid fails to open.
I would take pics today, if it wasn't -200 degrees out. I put a port on my 16G compressor cover and used that as my source. Ran 2 inches then put the "pill" inline. I used larger vacuum line for this part so it would fit easier and allow more control. After the pill I just tee'd in the supply to the solenoid and the other end to the WG. The solenoid bleeds off source air to control the WG. Be sure to remove the solenoid's restricter or you'll have huge issues. I mounted the solenoid by where the clutch line attaches the the frame where is goes steel to rubber line. I put it there since I'm using a solenoid to control the stock BOV. Made a nice little solenoid pack. Anyways, after that follow the ecmlink write up for set-up. I didn't fine tune mine much, but where it is now is I run 10psi til 3500, then it ramps up to 26psi from 3500rpm to 5k, then settles nicely at 22 til 7k, then 18 til 8k. Makes a good clean run and the top end die off is due to a S16G and it keeps me wanting to shift at 7 instead of always going to 8k. The spike is completly bad ass. I have the cyclone set to trigger right when the spike peaks at 4k, so it hits like a freight train and having 10 psi under 3500 really helped my gas mileage since it would build 18psi by 3k otherwise. That's my biggest praise for this mod. It was 10bucks in parts, took 20mins to do and I gained lots of mid range torque and way better gas mileage, like 5-8mpg overall, I'm at 18-22mpg on e85 now if I drive nice.
Hope that helps.