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ECMlink boost control with stock BCS? (RESOLVED)

GSTwithPSI

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Any of you guys here using ECMlink and the stock BCS for boost control? I'm seeing that the Ingersoll-Rand 3-port solenoid is probably preferred, but looking to use the stock BCS and see how well it works. I figure, it's free, so why not give it a try? I'm just confused about why you really need the 0.025" boot restrictor (pill). I'm assuming it somehow smooths out the delivery of pressure to the rest of the system, limiting spikes and such, but am curious as to how exactly. Also, ECMtuning says to remove the restrictor in the BCS, so where the hell is that? I'm looking right at the solenoid, and don't see a thing?

Here are the articles I'm using for reference:
click
click

Thanks guys!
 
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MellowVR4

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Its a little sleeve on one end of the solenoid ports, If its not their then someone took it out already.
 

GSTwithPSI

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OK, so I just found this: click

Answers how to remove the BCS restrictor on the stock solenoid. Although this is a 2G solenoid, I'm sure the process for the 1G is pretty much the same.
 

transparentdsm

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i am. i bought the contorller from ecmlink. its actually really easy to set up and i have a nice solid boos line.
 
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ApexHunter

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Quoting GSTwithPSI:
I'm just confused about why you really need the 0.025" boot restrictor (pill). I'm assuming it somehow smooths out the delivery of pressure to the rest of the system, limiting spikes and such, but am curious as to how exactly.



One can liken the operation of the factory BCS to that of the ISC motor, in the sense that it only has so much adjustment capability.

The restrictor pills help to get boost in the right ball park, and then the factory BCS regulates from there. Like when you set the base idle with the BISS, and then the ISC adjusts from there as needed. But if you set the base idle too high or too low, the ISC can only do so much and your idle is still gonna be off.
 
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prove_it

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I'm using the factory solenoid. No issues once dialed in. Works fine. I just a welding tip instead of the pill.
 

GSTwithPSI

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Thanks prove_it. Did you just stick the tip in the rubber line or what? Can you describe how you did the vacuum routing, where you mounted the solenoid etc...?
 

prove_it

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"Thanks prove_it. Did you just stick the tip in the rubber line or what? Can you describe how you did the vacuum routing, where you mounted the solenoid etc...? "

Stick the tip where? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

The restrictor allows the solenoid to work at a lower duty cycle, therefor preventing failure, and does limit spiking and maintains a constant pressure source during shifts. With it set-up right it has the fail safe of returning to WG spring pressure if the solenoid fails to open.

I would take pics today, if it wasn't -200 degrees out. I put a port on my 16G compressor cover and used that as my source. Ran 2 inches then put the "pill" inline. I used larger vacuum line for this part so it would fit easier and allow more control. After the pill I just tee'd in the supply to the solenoid and the other end to the WG. The solenoid bleeds off source air to control the WG. Be sure to remove the solenoid's restricter or you'll have huge issues. I mounted the solenoid by where the clutch line attaches the the frame where is goes steel to rubber line. I put it there since I'm using a solenoid to control the stock BOV. Made a nice little solenoid pack. Anyways, after that follow the ecmlink write up for set-up. I didn't fine tune mine much, but where it is now is I run 10psi til 3500, then it ramps up to 26psi from 3500rpm to 5k, then settles nicely at 22 til 7k, then 18 til 8k. Makes a good clean run and the top end die off is due to a S16G and it keeps me wanting to shift at 7 instead of always going to 8k. The spike is completly bad ass. I have the cyclone set to trigger right when the spike peaks at 4k, so it hits like a freight train and having 10 psi under 3500 really helped my gas mileage since it would build 18psi by 3k otherwise. That's my biggest praise for this mod. It was 10bucks in parts, took 20mins to do and I gained lots of mid range torque and way better gas mileage, like 5-8mpg overall, I'm at 18-22mpg on e85 now if I drive nice.

Hope that helps.
 
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GSTwithPSI

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Quoting prove_it:
Stick the tip where? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif


Ahhh, yes. All this talk of pills, rubbers and tips would typically inicate another topic entirely. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif



Thanks for the description. That will help greatly. I decided to pick up an inline restrictor. Did you have to extend the stock BCS harness to mount it in that location?
 

prove_it

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No, it has plenty of length since it was originally mounted on the air can close to that spot. That's why it works nicely.

Dialing it in is a bit slow at first, but take it easy. I ended up at 32psi from my s16G while dialing in. Don't make huge gross adjustments like I did.
 

prove_it

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Oh, you'll love it. I use the gear based also. Really makes 1st more friendly. Just PM if you have anymore questions.
 

GSTwithPSI

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Well, finally got my inline restrictor, so I installed my boost control setup today.

I started with the stock BCS.
WP_000623.jpg


Then, I removed the stock restrictor pill:
WP_000624.jpg


Here is the .025 restrictor I picked up. The hose barbs on each end made it easy to install inline:
WP_000625.jpg


Here is basically everything you need, plus a little bit of vacuum line:
WP_000630.jpg


Restrictor installed:
WP_000633.jpg


BCS installed:
WP_000635.jpg


T'd into the Wg actuator/J-pipe:
WP_000637.jpg


End result:
1G_Turbo_Vac_Diagrams1.jpg


OK prove_it, now give me your version of how the hell to dial this thing in. I would go out and play with it, but it's snowing outside, and doing some WOT pulls probably isn't the best idea.
 

manikbastrd

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Nov 19, 2009
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Possibly a silly question but what is the benefit of this vs a MBC? Is it just a budget EBC that you can control with your ECU?
 

GSTwithPSI

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This is a way to control boost using ECMlink. ECMlink gives the user lots of latitude in regards to boost control, like controlling boost by gear for example. To be honest, I'm still learning how to implement this correctly to get the most out of all the features. Here's an overview according to ECMlink if you are interested: click

The coolest thing about this is that it's damn near free. Everything needed to have an ECMlink electronic boost controller is already on the car...that is unless some PO pilfered all of your solenoids /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 
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Fiascoxl

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Stuarts Draft, Va
This works flawlessly for me. I initially and still do have the MAC valve set up around somewhere but for simplicity sake I gave this a try when I put the motor into 740. I was able to fine tune out the boost spike on the 14b that was on the car and tweaked it here and there to get a steady 18 lbs of boost.
 

transparentdsm

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Cherry Hill, NJ
Quoting GSTwithPSI:
This is a way to control boost using ECMlink. ECMlink gives the user lots of latitude in regards to boost control, like controlling boost by gear for example. To be honest, I'm still learning how to implement this correctly to get the most out of all the features. Here's an overview according to ECMlink if you are interested: click

The coolest thing about this is that it's damn near free. Everything needed to have an ECMlink electronic boost controller is already on the car...that is unless some PO pilfered all of your solenoids /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif



thats what was up with 138, thats why i got the IR from ECMLink.
 

prove_it

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There is no real way to dial it in. It comes down to going out and playing with numbers. Start with your base duty cycle. This is all that matters at first. Turn off error correction(ecu boost control) for this. Then you enter in some numbers. I start with 10 in every box. Make a pull. Watch the boost. Add 10 to each number until you see boost increase somewhere. You will do this until you see an increase in every rpm. Just add 5-10 in each box where no boost was increased, this will give you the base numbers needed for boost control. Getting this dialed in will prevent boost surging as the ecu swings back and forth to get a specific boost pressure. From there you add numbers to your target boost. Dial in a spike, don't, delay big boost til later rpms, whatever you want. It takes several pulls to get there. Once you see the correlation, it will make sense.

I start doing this with first gear only. After that do second gear pulls. Then third. You'll log boost control gear to know if your in the right row. After you got the boost line doing what you want, type in your desired boost in the second table and enable error correction. Then the ecu with vary the duty cycle to maintain the boost pressure you want. If it surges (for example swings back and forth from 26 to 16 psi where you want 22psi) then your base duty table is off. Go back and work on that.

While your doing this, watch your boost gauge, I was able to get 30psi from my S16G while dialing it in. You can very easily overboost.

There easy as that. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif Where did you get the restrictor pill? That looks way better than mine. I want it.
 

GSTwithPSI

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Thanks, Ryan. Any chance you could post up a log with your ECU config?

I got the in-line orifice restrictor at a place called Coast Pneumatics: In-Line Orifice Restrictor - Series 281 - 025" - 1/8" - Part # F-2815-251-B85.

Here's the link: click

I actually ordered 3. I'll send you one if you want. It took way longer to get these than it should have, so you can order from them if you want to wait. Shoot me a PM if not.
 
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