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2g exhaust manifold direct bolt on?

paul j

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 27, 2004
Messages
282
Location
Lone Tree, CO
After looking at vfaq on 1g and 2g differences I got the impression the 2g will not bolt directly up to 1551. Is this correct? I have assumed by previous posts that it is a smart easy swap to make for free power.
 

ghostinthevr4

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Joined
Jun 11, 2008
Messages
587
Location
Fresno, Califonia
It's a direct bolt on affair, I would reccomend saving up your coin for an FP manifold. They flow better than the stock and are less prone to cracking. If you don't have mega power goals and want to keep the car DD status that manifold will be the only one you'll need.
 

prove_it

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Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
On the 2G the lower corner studs are larger. You can use your stock studs, but I always retapped the holes for the larger studs. It helps prevent the manifold from warping and prevents broken studs. It's not necessary as some people have had no issues what so ever, but it is worth it.
 

89Mirageman

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Jul 5, 2006
Messages
2,502
Location
Stantonsburg, NC
I've always had to grind the corner by the power steering pump, very easy to mod though.
 
Last edited:

FlyingEagle

Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2005
Messages
1,635
Location
THE Ottawa
If you also plan to upgrade from a 1G to a 2G manifold and are using a 1G head with 1G exhaust studs still in place, you will not be able to use the bracket that bolts up for lifting the engine; unless you use longer studs. Just be aware of that, as it's never mentioned whenever someone says that yes, a 2G/EVO3 manifold can bolt on.
 

BogusSVO

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Joined
Aug 29, 2013
Messages
232
Location
Pensacola, Florida
Quoting ghostinthevr4:
It's a direct bolt on affair, I would reccomend saving up your coin for an FP manifold. They flow better than the stock and are less prone to cracking. If you don't have mega power goals and want to keep the car DD status that manifold will be the only one you'll need.



Ahhhhh... they are on sale right now....

They are a fine piece for a decently modded car.
 

paul j

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Joined
Apr 27, 2004
Messages
282
Location
Lone Tree, CO
I looked at the FP racing manifold. What is the advantage of it over the 2G? Does it still need the longer bolts like the 2g does for using lift points? Are the ex man stud & nut kit ($25) stock studs or longer such as is required for 2g? Do the short EVO bolts they say are needed compromise the lift problem? The car is for dd. I will be using 14b if I get it rebuilt and/or my new Mitsu (real one) small 16g. I would like to compare the difference between the two. Is the FP any better than 2g for low hp? For that matter is the 2g better than original 1g?

This brings up a point I have noticed here and on FP review of their manifold. The comment is about polishing ports. For years with V8's it has been shown that air flow is better with a slightly rough, not polished, ports and runners. I even had a sbc head flow tested before and after porting. I then polished the ports they had done and retested. It flowed less. I then went back and roughened it back to where they had it. Why would this not apply to our 4g engines?
 

FlyingEagle

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Mar 5, 2005
Messages
1,635
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THE Ottawa
FP's manifold will see benefits on engines where higher boost and higher power numbers are going to be made. Someone here may have a good guideline in their mindset, as to when to switch up to one.

The issue with using their manifold only comes with having to use the stud and 3 bolts to hold the turbo CHRA to the manifold itself, gasket in between.

If the flange is the same thickness as the 2G/EVO3, then you will likely want to use longer studs on at least the spots where the engine lift point mount goes into place. If you omit the mount, you can likely use regular length OEM 1G studs like I did. I have not installed one of these manifolds, so I would like for someone to know the answers 100% to back this up. I can't see it being any thicker than a 2G manifold at the flange for the head.
 

prove_it

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Jul 3, 2008
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4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
Mine is bolted on using 1G manifold studs. I don't have the lift point installed though. As for manifold to turbo, just use two stock bolts and two evo bolts. You'll need 8 conical washers. That's all the FP hardware kit is. I highly recommend this manifold for any build. If it cost more that 400, then it's not worth it. But for less than 200 on sale, you can't beat it. The manifold hold the turbo perfect in the OEM location, unlike some tubular manifolds that cost the same. It's cast so it will last. It does give the exhaust a deeper roar at wot too. It sucks not having a oem look heat shield and I've heard of the ones built by a guy on tuners have been falling apart, but I still love mine.

As for your porting questions, yes the intake should be roughed a bit. This prevents fuel drop out. The exhaust side though I found flows best with a smooth surface. I never went to a mirror like finish but a nice 120 grit sand was good. That was my results back in the day when I was playing with a flowbench.
 

paul j

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Joined
Apr 27, 2004
Messages
282
Location
Lone Tree, CO
prove it are you saying a stock heat shield will not fit with the FP manifold and takes a custom one that is crap?
 

LIV4PSI

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Nov 24, 2011
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1,774
Location
O-H-I-O
Stock heat shield definitely doesn't fit. I always thought the aftermarket ones looked nice
 

prove_it

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Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
They look nice, but don't tolerate DD. There was a huge batch reported by tuners that the mounts were made out of aluminum and don't last. There might be ones with all stainless steel now though.
 

prove_it

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Jul 3, 2008
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4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
Quoting paul j:
prove it are you saying a stock heat shield will not fit with the FP manifold and takes a custom one that is crap?



The FP manifold doesn't even have a boss to bolt a shield to. It was never intended to be used with a shield.
 

turbowop

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Joined
Apr 29, 2001
Messages
11,971
Location
Yakima, WA
Quoting prove_it:
They look nice, but don't tolerate DD. There was a huge batch reported by tuners that the mounts were made out of aluminum and don't last. There might be ones with all stainless steel now though.



Is this the JNZ one? I have it and it's 100% stainless. I haven't installed it or my FP manifold yet though.
 

prove_it

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Jul 3, 2008
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4,201
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Sioux Falls, SD
No there was a bunch on tuners that were getting made by a member over there. It's not the shield that failed, but the rail piece that attaches to the studs. It might be something of the past. Read about it a few months ago. Never saw pics though.
 

turbowop

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Joined
Apr 29, 2001
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11,971
Location
Yakima, WA
Yeah, mine has the rail that the shield slides in and then the front bolts to a manifold to turbo bolt. That rail is stainless on mine. Would seem weird to make that out of aluminum. Hopefully it holds up.
 

prove_it

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Jul 3, 2008
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4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
I'm still on the fence if I want to buy it yet. Hows your underhood temps? Does it seem to make a big difference?
 
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