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cyclone manifold cleaning and porting ?

prove_it

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You need to crank up the heat and slow your wire....

I use stitch welding with a cheapo welder, it comes out way better. Just my handy advice.
 
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tektic

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@prove_it.
I'll try that next time. I was a little hasty with this project.

Now... Does anyone have one of these the want to send me? Mine is the nt version.
 

prove_it

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The non turbo one should work, I would think anyway. It's still the same dimensions from the bolt holes.
 

tektic

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I thought so too. Maybe it doesn't fit cause its cyclone?

This is offset of nt ggsx part. Its stamped 87




This is the thickness of 93 6bolt tb



JDM tb



NT tb
 
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prove_it

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Never played with a non turbo one. I'm using the usdm one on my cyclone. Odd.
 

FlyingEagle

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I just ran into this issue.

One of the issues I ran into was, if I simply deleted the bracket, I needed a shorter or fully threaded stud for the back of the CAS. So, I decided to use the support bracket. Seeing also how a certain member here had posted about having the manifolds break without brackets in place, I doubled up on my resolve to re-use this CAS to TB support bracket. It also makes a nice rest for the tube coming from the port on the intake manifold down to the 2G air intake snorkel, that is what the hole in the middle is for.

Out of the 1G intake manifold, 4g61t manifold and the Cyclone manifolds, I used the longest studs I had available because if the JDM 4g63t TB is indeed shorter than the USDM '90 4g63t TB, this would account for the issue I had mounting my CAS/TB support bracket. My bracket ended up looking like this, with the longest (Cyclone ??? or 1G) studs and bolts I could muster up. I now think this is likely either a 4g61t or 4g63t piece but I have no way of confirming unless they piece codes contain a portion of the their ASA/CAPS part numbers. Either way, I modded my bracket to fit, and it was just a fluke that I cut exactly enough to make it work on the first shot. The 10" grinder wheel setup was at work, car was not. So, mounting angles on the flats for the nuts and where they mount seems to have been maintained so as to not be an issue. I did just find a JDM TB in the basement, parts I hoarded when I was finding Cyclone bits to use just in case of issues with the USDM parts I had lying around, or if I had installed it with the 4g61t still in place.
Anyways, this is how it all turned out, and how it will look when it is fired up again just before the snow flies .... again. We've already had a light dusting two days ago. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif












 

fuel

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OT but I love the wrinkle black finish on the parts. Is that a 2G throttle elbow?
 

FlyingEagle

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Oh, I should have mentioned that yes, it is a 2G throttle body elbow. I wonder if that flange on the elbow is any thicker than a 1G elbow. Likely not, so I think my spacing issues were mainly with the USDM TB being in place of where the JDM TB would have gone. I figure I must have had Cyclone or 1G studs and bolts in use, just not sure which if they are different at all.

VHT wrinkle coat black, takes forever to cure, but damn worth it. I've gone black and not going .... for hack!
 
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FlyingEagle

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Quoting Pot:
The whole in the middle of the bracket is to hoist the engine when removal/installation.



That would explain a whole lot then!! I cannot fit the front timing engine pull mount that is held in by an exhaust stud because using stock 1G exhaust studs, does not give you enough room to accomodate for the engine pull bracket thickness, when you use a 2G exhaust manifold. I have had to delete that front bracket as a result, and the 2G exhaust manifold with a 4 layer steel Mitsubishi exhaust manifold gasket, works out rather nicely whereby the self locking copper nuts, fit just far enough over the studs. This is after something like 8-10 passes with a Digital Tech Wrench from Snap-on, as the gasket relaxed, working from the center to the outside nuts.

Anywho, BOT. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

fuel

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Quoting FlyingEagle:
Oh, I should have mentioned that yes, it is a 2G throttle body elbow. I wonder if that flange on the elbow is any thicker than a 1G elbow. Likely not, so I think my spacing issues were mainly with the USDM TB being in place of where the JDM TB would have gone. I figure I must have had Cyclone or 1G studs and bolts in use, just not sure which if they are different at all.

VHT wrinkle coat black, takes forever to cure, but damn worth it. I've gone black and not going .... for hack!



As far as I'm aware the JDM and USDM throttle bodies are the same apart from the addition of another vacuum port on the top of the USDM cars.
 

prove_it

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^ agreed. I used a JDM throttle body on the cyclone and stock usdm manifold with the same brace with no issues.
 

tektic

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My bracket is from my ggsx. grinding it down was a good suggestion but not enough material to make it work.

As of right now I ommited the bracket by using an exhaust stud for the cam angle sensor.

I showed the measurements of nt, JDM(55mm)and usdm(47mm)throttle bodies. There all different thicknesses. Why would you say there the same?

The studs from the cyclone were very long. I had to swap to studs from a usdm manifold.
 

prove_it

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maybe thats what I did. Not sure, it's been a while, but I know I've used that bracket on jdm and usdm manifolds.
 

FlyingEagle

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Quoting tektic:
My bracket is from my ggsx. grinding it down was a good suggestion but not enough material to make it work.

As of right now I omitted the bracket by using an exhaust stud for the cam angle sensor.



Your bracket has a completely different and entirely overextended offset for it to work. My bracket could have come from my 4g61t or the JDM red top import motor that was pieced into the 1991 Talon we tore apart.
I think I omitted the bracket until this portion of the build and only ran one CAS nut (EGADS, I know...) until I realized what I had done. 4 years ago, it was divorce and only having one car left (and JSB at the time) so there was not the time to be scrutinizing over nuts and bolts. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif Besides, I found out how well sealed the wiring harness's coming in the pillars really are, with regards to being 20+ years old and lots of rain, with the front of car on stands, way up. Nothing better than the entire rear seat floor pan holding 6" of water, and your steel intercooler piping sitting half submerged before you noticed. Best excuse to find a new carpet, EVER.

So, BOT, it is great to see you are making progress. I've just finished splicing in some new Chrysler quick connector injector connectors and the rest of my loom is pretty much ready to tape back up and re-install back into the top tank area of the intake manifold.

Interesting to see just how much variation there really was, with regards to just a few motors and supporting hardware.
 
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