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Stripped valve cover bolts.
- Thread startergvr4ever
- Start date
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89Mirageman
Well-known member
That is the correct diameter and thread pitch for all bolts with a 10mm head on your car. Depending on how bad the threads are stripped you may be able to use a slightly longer bolt instead though.
gvr4ever
Well-known member
I already tried the longer bolt trick and one of those stripped out.
Didn't he link a 6 mm? Guess I'm confused on where 10 mm came from...
Helicoil works fine but can be a little tricky to use and especially on the smaller stuff (6 mm isn't too bad though), but people say 'timesert' (?) ones work easier/better.
How bad are they stripped? Is it possible to re-tap them first and clean up the threads, or are they that bad (probably it sounds like)...You must've really torqued them down /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif Thing with aluminum is it's a good idea to loosen and even tighten when it's still warm, to avoid galling, or at least use some anti-sieze, but be aware you torque values will be lower using it, if you use a wrench and tighten to spec.
Helicoil works fine but can be a little tricky to use and especially on the smaller stuff (6 mm isn't too bad though), but people say 'timesert' (?) ones work easier/better.
How bad are they stripped? Is it possible to re-tap them first and clean up the threads, or are they that bad (probably it sounds like)...You must've really torqued them down /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif Thing with aluminum is it's a good idea to loosen and even tighten when it's still warm, to avoid galling, or at least use some anti-sieze, but be aware you torque values will be lower using it, if you use a wrench and tighten to spec.
gvr4ever
Well-known member
I'm not sure why it stripped. I'm aware that they take very little torque. I only have one bolt that let loose, but it was on the back side and caused a leak. I'll go ahead and order the kit. I got her running like new, now she just needs a few bits here and their to be in fantastic shape.
yeah, sometimes aluminum (the head) can be tricky to not strip and especially when cold. Typically, on stuff like this, I use 1/4" drive socket wrench (mine are ss button head, so I use a t-handle hex key) and just put my hand on the wrench by the socket and not the lever, and this seems just about right for proper torque; If I do end up using the handle, I go really light, cause even on a small 1/4" drive handle, it gives it enough leverage to put too much, if you're not careful!
Least you'll have easy access, BUT be sure to lay down some rags and/or put some grease on your drill bit/tap, so you don't get shavings in the engine (assuming you pull cover)...What I do is use a drill bushing (something I made, but you can buy too) to help guide the bit in straight; nothing worse than a crooked hole when you try to tap something /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif Nice thing is the hole is already there, so it'll be a good guide, but just go slow.
Least you'll have easy access, BUT be sure to lay down some rags and/or put some grease on your drill bit/tap, so you don't get shavings in the engine (assuming you pull cover)...What I do is use a drill bushing (something I made, but you can buy too) to help guide the bit in straight; nothing worse than a crooked hole when you try to tap something /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif Nice thing is the hole is already there, so it'll be a good guide, but just go slow.
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So the injector cleaning worked?
I have a 6mm helicoil kit if you want to come to my place this weekend we could do it. Won't even charge you for the insert. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Quoting gvr4ever:
I'm not sure why it stripped. I'm aware that they take very little torque. I only have one bolt that let loose, but it was on the back side and caused a leak. I'll go ahead and order the kit. I got her running like new, now she just needs a few bits here and their to be in fantastic shape.
I use a bit of black rtv to hold the bolts in. Vibration and heat/cold cycles loosens them over time, especially wit no balance shaft belt and if the vc has been swapped out several times.
I'm not sure why it stripped. I'm aware that they take very little torque. I only have one bolt that let loose, but it was on the back side and caused a leak. I'll go ahead and order the kit. I got her running like new, now she just needs a few bits here and their to be in fantastic shape.
I use a bit of black rtv to hold the bolts in. Vibration and heat/cold cycles loosens them over time, especially wit no balance shaft belt and if the vc has been swapped out several times.
turbowop
Well-known member
I find I usually have to retorque them after a heat cycle or two, but have never had to use anything like RTV to keep them from back out. I use a socket on the end of a screwdriver handle. Pretty hard to overtorque them with that.
89Mirageman
Well-known member
Quoting JNR:
Didn't he link a 6 mm? Guess I'm confused on where 10 mm came from...
That is the correct diameter and thread pitch for all bolts with a 10mm head on your car.
Didn't he link a 6 mm? Guess I'm confused on where 10 mm came from...
That is the correct diameter and thread pitch for all bolts with a 10mm head on your car.
well, that's if you're using a hex head screw, which I'm not and common practice is to specify the major diameter of the threads, not the head (as they *can* and do vary), but got what'cha meant now; mention that only for future reference, just to be clear...
but yeah, I want to say all M6's are 1.0 pitch on the car...for reference also, most all screws under the hood on these are either M6-1.0 or M8-1.25 or M10-1.25 (odd pitch on this size),with varying lengths, so makes it easy to stock up on hardware /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif The pitch can vary with the same sized head (if you go by that), fwiw also, although mitsu likes to use fine on most places, they do have fine and 'super fine' pitches on some diameters and esp. metric.
but yeah, I want to say all M6's are 1.0 pitch on the car...for reference also, most all screws under the hood on these are either M6-1.0 or M8-1.25 or M10-1.25 (odd pitch on this size),with varying lengths, so makes it easy to stock up on hardware /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif The pitch can vary with the same sized head (if you go by that), fwiw also, although mitsu likes to use fine on most places, they do have fine and 'super fine' pitches on some diameters and esp. metric.
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Okayplayer
Well-known member
I have a similar issue on my car. I plan to replace all the bolts with studs. Hat way you have ample clamping force with a smaller chancre of pulling threads out with the bolt when you remove the vc.
turbowop
Well-known member
I don't understand why people are having problems with this. I have never stripped out head threads or broken a valve cover due to overtightening, nor have I ever felt the need to warm up the car to remove/install fasteners in the head. I helicoiled one VC bolt hole on the head in 503 due to a previous owner stripping it out. It was easy to fix and hasn't been an issue since. I wouldn't go helicoiling every good hole just because of the one.
Can't say I've stripped out any threads myself, thankfully, but have a good feel for when the torque is where it should be (doing this a long time) /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif I have, however, run into issues on other vehicles that the threads had gotten galled by removing the threads cold (no fault of anybody's but with heating/cooling cycles of dissimilar materials it happens) and it's just good practice to loosen things from aluminum when it's warm vs. cold; you may be alright most of the time, but there's that one time you may not sort of thing...
turbowop
Well-known member
I think when most people are doing builds or other maintenance they are working with a cold engine. I know I do. About the only time I remove anything on a warm motor is when removing spark plugs to do a compression test. I've *never* seen valve cover threads gall when removing them on a cold engine.
sounds like you haven't had the pleasure of removing an old steel coolant plug on an aluminum intake manifold then, lol...Not suggesting you need to work on a warm engine all the time, but in some scenarios, heat is your friend when it comes to aluminum and other materials.
turbowop
Well-known member
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Last I checked we were on a gvr4 forum. These are little valve cover bolts, not a plug in an intake manifold. I swear you bring up the most random info when people have specific questions regarding the gvr4. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif We get it. You know a lot about cars. But you don't need to tell somebody it's a good idea to warm up the car before they remove their valve cover on a gvr4. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
Last I checked we were on a gvr4 forum. These are little valve cover bolts, not a plug in an intake manifold. I swear you bring up the most random info when people have specific questions regarding the gvr4. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif We get it. You know a lot about cars. But you don't need to tell somebody it's a good idea to warm up the car before they remove their valve cover on a gvr4. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
transparentdsm
Well-known member
^ haha i just think people are scaried that they wont tighten it enough and it will leak oil because when you hit that required 4 pounds of torque there is what feels like so much more room for tightening, even though there isn't and thats when the holes strip out and the valve cover actually leaks... it happened to me the first few times i was doing the valve cover gasket about 10 years ago. thats when i realized that if you look at the valve cover gasket once you see the rubber starting to bulge out you stop there, turn it on run it for 20 or so, take a drive around the block then retighten like 1/8 to a 1/4 turn and your done. they wont back out and the cover wont leak.
gvr4ever
Well-known member
Quoting turbowop:
I don't understand why people are having problems with this. I have never stripped out head threads or broken a valve cover due to overtightening, nor have I ever felt the need to warm up the car to remove/install fasteners in the head. I helicoiled one VC bolt hole on the head in 503 due to a previous owner stripping it out. It was easy to fix and hasn't been an issue since. I wouldn't go helicoiling every good hole just because of the one.
Good for you, but it's a really common problem. Me, I made the mistake of trying to clean some older lifters instead of just trying to replace them with new ones in the first place, so I had my cover off and on probably 3-4 times in a short period of time. I think I have three slightly longer bolts and one of those have given out. Last year I also drove on a rather bad road to get to work in Indy and it shook the crap out of my car. I really wouldn't be surprised if that didn't help cause the problem. It even finished off a set of tires too. The sad part was, it was a major road that couldn't really be avoided. If I could have the car back in brand new condition, I could probably better avoid the problem, but I can't turn back time. My old Talon had the same problem before I even got it, but I never stripped a longer bolt.
I don't understand why people are having problems with this. I have never stripped out head threads or broken a valve cover due to overtightening, nor have I ever felt the need to warm up the car to remove/install fasteners in the head. I helicoiled one VC bolt hole on the head in 503 due to a previous owner stripping it out. It was easy to fix and hasn't been an issue since. I wouldn't go helicoiling every good hole just because of the one.
Good for you, but it's a really common problem. Me, I made the mistake of trying to clean some older lifters instead of just trying to replace them with new ones in the first place, so I had my cover off and on probably 3-4 times in a short period of time. I think I have three slightly longer bolts and one of those have given out. Last year I also drove on a rather bad road to get to work in Indy and it shook the crap out of my car. I really wouldn't be surprised if that didn't help cause the problem. It even finished off a set of tires too. The sad part was, it was a major road that couldn't really be avoided. If I could have the car back in brand new condition, I could probably better avoid the problem, but I can't turn back time. My old Talon had the same problem before I even got it, but I never stripped a longer bolt.
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