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First Time Build from Maryland

Number996

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2012
Messages
143
Location
Gaithersburg, MD
Hey Everybody!

#996/2000 1991 GVR4

Apparently this car has been floating around for a while (and its no mystery why, you'll see) but now she's under new management and where I come from, if you do a job you do it right. This is my first 4g63t build so any input is greatly appreciated and thanks for checking it out!

The kid I purchased her from knew nothing except it was a 'built' motor with very low mileage and 'ran great'.

The Car has:

- Adjustable Struts (with stock springs or aftermarket springs that are stock ride height)
- New Clutch Master and Braided line
- Some sort of pedal rebuild kit
- Short Shifter
- Refinished Cylinder Head
- Mint Interior
- a Walbro 255
- HKS VPC
- Had an OEM 14g Turbo
- 3" Turbo back exhaust

The Engine:

- Found a missing dowel on the block so the bellhousing was missing a bolt
- The rear engine mount was loosely fastened with only one bolt into the engine
- The vibrations caused damage to the transfer case and causing problems with the starter making contact with the flywheel
- Spark plug from cylinder 3 was missing its electrode!
- The oil line banjo bolt was a regular bolt with holes drilled into it!
- Remarkably the cylinder head is immaculate and brian crower everything
- The block itself is bored out and has very nice internals (such a shame)

Whats been done:

- Pulled the engine to replace the bad block
- disassembled everything
- purchased a rebuild 2.0 block with Nippon rings, Clevite Mains and Rods, Polished Crank, Honed Cylinders, and Drilled Oil Holes
- Just got in new gaskets for everything
- Had trouble with crank bolt, couldn't get it off the old engine but don't plan on re-using oil pump anyway

Whats Happening now:

- Ordering new Head Stud Bolts
- Ordering new bellhousing bolts
- Ordering new oil pump
- Ordering AMG 3 piece replica
- and buying a sprung clutch, light weight flywheel, 16g turbo, and transfer case from the same dude i bought the small block from
- axle boots are torn and are being replaced

Interior:
- Has a momo knob and a deep dish wheel
- Staying the same except dyeing headliner black and installing a valor 7" pop up touch screen dvd/cd/usb/aux player

What has to happen before June 9th:
- Intercooler and plumbing
- Tune
- Suspension
- Maybe wheels
- Tint
- Maybe paint


Cylinder Head Sitting waiting for head studs


The exhaust, it's massive


The new block where the old block was damaged


new block


the missing dowel/threaded hole for the bellhousing fastener


damage done to the old clutch, it made some crazy grinding/scraping noises i never want to hear again


damage done to the transfer case (OUCH look at those missing spline teeth)
 

Number996

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2012
Messages
143
Location
Gaithersburg, MD
Some Images of the Car before the tear down and such



USDM front end



Havn't a clue what the wheels are, but they feel and look heavy. I want Falkens 17x9s



Right before pulling the engine, I think the night the extent of the damage was found



The only evidence I have of the HKS VPC sofar (besides it driving like a tuned bat at of hell when i bought her). The HKS VPC, I think, deletes the MAF and adds this little guy drilled and plugged here into the thermostat. Any input?
 

dustyduff

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 19, 2009
Messages
425
Location
Mantua, NJ
That's not the thermostat, it's the throttle body. The sensor is likely the Air Intake Temperature Sensor (AIT).
 

Hondasi88

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 13, 2004
Messages
2,066
Location
MD/NOVA
wassup man........I believe you are up the street from me. Anyway, im glad you found a nice car.
 

Number996

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2012
Messages
143
Location
Gaithersburg, MD
can anyone direct me to a solid firewall disassemble and reassembly (slash cruise control delete!) write up?
 

BluFalcon

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2002
Messages
1,312
Location
Wichita, KS
Cruise control is easy to delete. You'll need a throttle cable from a 1.8L Non Cruise Control 1G DSM or 6G Galant. Crawl under the dash and remove cable end from gas pedal. There's a little yellow nylon ball that pops out of a socket in the gas pedal arm. Once that's done, pull the 2 10mm bolts on the throttle cable flange on the firewall. Disconnect cable from throttle body and intake manifold. Remove cruise control box, cables and install new non cruise throttle cable in its place.

As for the firewall? Make sure you label everything as you disassemble, and take notes with lots of pictures.
 

jmorri15

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 11, 2009
Messages
171
Location
Kemp, TX
that sensor is definitely the IAT sensor my galant has the exact same setup. does your car have a vpc or is it running a different sd programer?
 

Number996

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2012
Messages
143
Location
Gaithersburg, MD
OK guys, here's some up dates. don't want this to become some 'wonder what happened to that galant?' post.

Sort of stuck because I've done as much as I can until the next pay check comes in. There's just a little more I could do to be ready for when parts come in but I'm having trouble with the crank bolt (correct terminology?) on the old block. I cant get it off. And i have tried 2 different air guns and 2 different electric plug in guns and one GIANT battery operated snap on gun.

I don't want to re use the old oil pump, but I want to re use the crank pulley/belt gear (again terminology?) and the bit of the oil return stem that fastens to the engine side of the oil pump, and I can't get the stem's elbow piece without removing the oil pump, and I cant remove the oil pump or crank pulley/belt gear without getting that forsaken crank bolt/fastener off!

In case I'm not making any sense, here are some pictures of my problems and a new pic of the car sitting waiting for me to hurry up



This is what I'm referring to as the crank bolt/fastener, center of crank gear/pulley (with the 1/2" square head)



also should I be concerned with this obviously no stock plug in the side of the block, that should look like the plug next to it top right



nice day out today



The passenger side headlight corner was cracked and a piece finally chipped off when I was removing them. The tape is there holding the piece in place so I don't lose it. I'm going to super glue it then take them to get tinted so nobody will know the wiser, mwuahaha...except for us.



so with my disorganization combined with the missing and broken fasteners... does anybody know a link to a good engine fastener diagram write up? that would be KILLER!


I need that crank bolt/fastener off so I can relax and wait for tax money and pay day! ! !
 

Number996

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2012
Messages
143
Location
Gaithersburg, MD
anybody have any idea what kind of horse power i can expect with big 16g turbo, these internals, and the brian crower upgrades in the head?
 

jmorri15

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 11, 2009
Messages
171
Location
Kemp, TX
hey man if you need help let me know. i live in laurel and 424 should be back on the road soon.
 

desant78

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 23, 2010
Messages
732
Location
Clarksboro, NJ
I might sound like a newb here (because I am) but I had this issue last night. I was taking out the same bolt.

I removed two flywheel bolts, and backed out more bolts. These bolts along with a big metal bar would prevent the crank from turning. The large metal bar I had was jammed by using the engine stands itself to prevent the bar from spinning.

next I used a 3.5 ft long piece of tubing on a wrench, and it came right out.

I don't know if this helps you, just food for thought. Good luck and keep it up!
 

thedsmguy

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 20, 2009
Messages
1,785
Location
Vancouver Washington
Quoting Number996:
anybody have any idea what kind of horse power i can expect with big 16g turbo, these internals, and the brian crower upgrades in the head?



Low 300's.

You can also source non cruise control cables from a 93 ish hyundai elantra I've heard.
 

Number996

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2012
Messages
143
Location
Gaithersburg, MD
desant - that trick worked like a charm! thanks!

now i cant get the front case off haha. off to get that done now.

it's too nice out to not be outside working on the car
 

Number996

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2012
Messages
143
Location
Gaithersburg, MD
#996 is now RUST FREE ! only some surface rust, i was impressed




also, i tried whacking it with a rubber hammer but nothing. all of the fasteners are removed but i cant get it off. any ideas, anybody?


should i re-use the front case/oil pump?
 

mitsuturbo

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 2, 2008
Messages
3,544
Location
Near Seattle, Washington
Pull the oil pump and check the clearances and such within it. If it's good, i'd re-use it. I've re-used oil pumps many, many times and never had one fail yet.

Oddly enough, the only oil pump failures i've ever seen (2 of them, one of them was on one of my cars) were on NEW topline oil pumps.
 
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