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1667 got A/C on sunday!!

Vman911

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 18, 2005
Messages
359
Location
Douglas county, Ga
Finally after owning 1667 for 3 yrs, I got the A/C to work. I tried a rebuilt compressor (off ebay) and new dryer. Needless to say wasted about 6 cans of r-12. then tried R134. Wasted more of that. My pressures were ok, compressor kicks on, but still no flow. Installed new dryer 3 more cans of freeze 12 and nothing. I was thinking of blockage. Took off all lines I could get to, blew out condensor. Switched to R134 and still nothing. Decided to try expansion valve. Replaced Evap and expansion valve. Now my A/C blows cold. In garage with 90 degree temps out side it was blowing 62 out vents at 2.5K rpms (idling) I haven't driven it yet due to fan issues. I should have taken pics on how to install it. My bad. not that hard its right behind glove box. Took 2hrs total. I did get a nice pic of the 20 yr old evap that came out. It was full of crap.
Vinman


 

bobdole

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
866
Location
U.K.
Always nice to have AC!!
 

GSX_TC

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 7, 2011
Messages
3,722
Location
Houston, Texas
hmmm i wonder id this is common on VR4's because my a/c doesnt work and i wanna fix it.
 

FlyingEagle

Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2005
Messages
1,635
Location
THE Ottawa
If there is a spot in the dash where all the air passes over the Evaporator, then yes and yes, you will have debris that gets stuck in there.
How much, no one will know.

I too just installed an AC belt and pulley for the first time since owning the car (89 Colt C53a with R-12), because the PO told me he just did not
re-install it following a timing belt job on the old motor. I am so glad I converted over all the compressor bracketry and kept the system intact
because it did have a charge. System started right up, first twist of the dial on the HVAC control head. So happy it was this easy in my case.
Congratulations to the OP on getting his system working with all the headache he had to go through to diagnose the cooling issues.
Blockage of airflow at the condensor or evaporator will cause horrific pressure change (READ sky high for the condensor) and/or a complete lack
of cooling ability at the evaporator.
 

jepherz

Staff member
Joined
Aug 8, 2004
Messages
7,877
Location
KC, Missouri
So if I am replacing the valve on my car, I won't need to pull the entire dash? That's great news! Do you recommend removing the whole radiator assembly just to clean it out?
 

DR1665

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 19, 2005
Messages
4,642
Location
Iowa City, IA
#in

464 was missing a couple of the hardlines in the engine bay. Since 195 lost the AC in the accident (and because race car), I snagged all the bits I needed from 195, bolted up a compressor, replaced all the o-rings, re-used the original valves, drier, condenser and whatnot, and had the car charged with R134.

Even here in Phoenix, idling at 1000rpm at a dead stop in rush hour traffic in 110°F ambient temps, I still see 45°F through the vents. <b>LOVE IT!</b>
 

moidsm1

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 30, 2009
Messages
116
Location
Tucson, AZ
My car runs too Hot when I have the A/C on =( I give up
 

alansupra94

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 3, 2010
Messages
1,909
Location
Wayne,NJ
Define too hot. I would recommend maybe getting better fans and swapping to a lower thermostat.
 

Overkill

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 10, 2006
Messages
48
Location
Berthoud, CO
</font><blockquote><font class="small">Quoting DR1665:</font><hr />
#in

464 was missing a couple of the hardlines in the engine bay. Since 195 lost the AC in the accident (and because race car), I snagged all the bits I needed from 195, bolted up a compressor, replaced all the o-rings, re-used the original valves, drier, condenser and whatnot, and had the car charged with R134.

Even here in Phoenix, idling at 1000rpm at a dead stop in rush hour traffic in 110°F ambient temps, I still see 45°F through the vents. <b>LOVE IT!</b>

<hr /></blockquote><font class="post">

45F? That is awesome with R134A

Is it safe to assume you have both stock fans in place on your car?
 

DR1665

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 19, 2005
Messages
4,642
Location
Iowa City, IA
@Overkill - yup. Stock radiator, stock fans, pretty much everything at this point. Only mods on this car are a hacked airbox, K&amp;N, MBC, and the 180° t-stat (I think, whatever the cooler one you can get anywhere is). I can't keep the engine warmed-up while cruising on the highway when it's below about 70° outside, but this time of year, it runs just a hair on the cool side. <i>Perfect.</i>

Only issue I have is, once the car is warmed up, IAC lets the idle drop to 450-500rpm. Drops like a rock, actually. Idle/BISS are set according to the FSM, ISC function verifies correct on the logs, and it settles in right where it should after a second, but the shuddering every time I put the clutch in get a little old. (Just not as old as not having AC in Phoenix in summer.)

Cheers.
 
Last edited:

6gCarb

Active member
Joined
Jun 1, 2011
Messages
42
Location
Makati City, Philippines
I think i am experiencing the same issue, i just got the AC fixed about a month ago, everything seems fine but when i turn the AC on, it drops the idle and my engine dies, do you guys think i need a new and higher alternator?
 

DR1665

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 19, 2005
Messages
4,642
Location
Iowa City, IA
@xzyha - What makes you think it might be the alternator? AC compressor loading should reduce the idle a bit. My issue is that the ISC allows it to drop way low before recovering when I engage the clutch after traveling at speed. So, instead of going from 3000rpm to 750rpm, it will drop to 400 and slowly ease back up to where it should be.

Have you set base idle according to the manual? You have to ground the pin on the firewall in the engine bay and the one on the datalink connector by the fuse box, then let the car idle with no accessories on and dial in base idle with the screw on the throttle body. Once you've got that set, you remove your grounding pins and the ECU should take it from there.

Good luck. I bet AC comes in REAL handy where you live!
 

moidsm1

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 30, 2009
Messages
116
Location
Tucson, AZ
XZYHA

My car dies alot when the A/c is running and Im pretty sure its because the ISC is blocked off. I had to raise my idle alot because whenever i let off the gas the idle would dive and shut off.

Also to answer:


alansupra94

Hot to me is rising to 240* before I shut the car down. Normally the car will run at 190-200 with 2 constant aftermarket fans. The thermostat is new 190*.

I had a mishimoto dsm radiator at first. I swapped it back to stock thinking it was the problem.
Either way it is not my priority right now, the car is fine until I turn the a/c on. I was deployed to Iraq so heat really doesnt get to me.
 

6gCarb

Active member
Joined
Jun 1, 2011
Messages
42
Location
Makati City, Philippines
@DR1665

because i read something about "it will be pretty hot this summer, i need to get a new high amp alternator" sounding statement through these forums. I am not a gearhead like a lot of people here reason why i asked. and yes, AC COMES IN REAL HANDY FROM WHERE I AM, not because it's hot but, heat does not get to me like moidsm1 but when it rains, my windshield gets all clouded up. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bawling.gif
 
Last edited by a moderator:

jepherz

Staff member
Joined
Aug 8, 2004
Messages
7,877
Location
KC, Missouri
I don't think vents blowing 45* when it's 110* is physically possible, but maybe that's just me /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif Maybe you just stopped the car, lowered RPMs to idle, and had recirc on?
 
Last edited:

jepherz

Staff member
Joined
Aug 8, 2004
Messages
7,877
Location
KC, Missouri
For anyone looking to do this work, I'll add that you should NOT use the Rock Auto expansion valve. Their part is wrong (at least the one I bought was).
 

curtis

Well-known member
Joined
May 4, 2003
Messages
11,892
Location
Clarksville TN
I'll add something to this as well. Change all the o-rings over to the 134 compatible ones. If not after a few months it will leak and fail.
 

jepherz

Staff member
Joined
Aug 8, 2004
Messages
7,877
Location
KC, Missouri
I second that, Curtis. One thing I wasn't sure of when I re-did mine last weekend, was what to replace on the compressor. I pulled out two of the drain bolts and they had the regular O-rings, so I replaced them, but I have no idea if there were others or not.
 

DR1665

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 19, 2005
Messages
4,642
Location
Iowa City, IA
Quoting xzyha:
@DR1665

because i read something about "it will be pretty hot this summer, i need to get a new high amp alternator" sounding statement through these forums. I am not a gearhead like a lot of people here reason why i asked. and yes, AC COMES IN REAL HANDY FROM WHERE I AM, not because it's hot but, heat does not get to me like moidsm1 but when it rains, my windshield gets all clouded up. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bawling.gif


Since you're not a gearhead, I'll let you in on a secret: We tend to over-do things. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

The first thing I would do if I were you would be to double check the condition of my electrical system. With the car running and all accessories turned off (lights, fan, radio), check the voltage across your battery. You should see close to 14VDC (DC volts). If you see less than that, it could be a bad connection somewhere (corrosion), an old battery, or a failing alternator.

Corrosion: Make sure your battery connections are clean. Also double check the ground strap locations there and on the firewall at a minimum. (Follow the negative wire off your battery to where it bolts to the chassis. If it's rusty or corroded, you should replace it, sanding the surface below it to ensure a clean, metal-to-metal connection. Also check the wire going from the throttle body to the firewall in the center of the engine bay for the same thing.) Witt the battery disconnected, this might be a good time to make sure your alternator connections are clean and shiny.

After that, I would try setting the idle a bit higher. Follow this procedure: click And try setting the base idle a little bit higher, like 850-900rpm. You may idle higher than normal most of the time, but it could save you from stalling. You can then dial it back down in the winter, right?

Good luck.
 

DR1665

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 19, 2005
Messages
4,642
Location
Iowa City, IA
</font><blockquote><font class="small">Quoting jepherz:</font><hr />
I don't think vents blowing 45* when it's 110* is physically possible, but maybe that's just me <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif" alt="" /> Maybe you just stopped the car, lowered RPMs to idle, and had recirc on?

<hr /></blockquote><font class="post">

Been meaning to get back to this thread with a picture. Ambient outside temp was 109°F when this was taken. I don't use recirc. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />



Just saying. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />
 
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