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Gauge Installation Question

Hey all, got another question for a person favoring diy procedures. I recently received all my new gauges which are the AEM digital (a/f ratio, boost/vac, Oil Pressure, and Voltmeter). I have an a-pillar pod for the a/f and boost gauge. The oil pressure and voltmeter are going under the radio in the double din. All I need for know how is how to route the vacuum line (already under the dash)to the a-pillar, how to wire the a/f wires already in the location of the stock clock (relocating this one) and where to find a 3 pod panel for the three 52mm gauges under the radio and the correct way to wire them all to work properly.

Also, I need to know if these :
click
will work on a 91 Galant VR4 and if there are supporting mods that can bring the most potential outta the one in the link. If amps are worth it, then what is the best ignition amp for the money out there? Keep in mind my next upgrade is the ECMLink to start tuning. Just wondering what is all compatable with these electronics.


*Note to self: it is 9:44pm on a Tuesday night, is sounds like a Subaru is racing some muscle car and the muscle car just lost. Sounded like they were heading northbound to Denver. Great, now I can't stay focused on my question because I wanna go out and look for some fun dammit /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif. Why'd my transmission have to go out? I'll have to edit this later down the road but in the mean time, any links to threads for procedures on "How-To" links will help greatly. Don't mind the noob.
 
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broxma

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Joined
Nov 16, 2009
Messages
911
Location
San Antonio Tx
Is the AEM O2 gauge a wideband? If not, it will make a great disco light or sell really well to guys on Ebay who like the colors red, yellow and green. A non-wideband O2 gauge is like a boost gauge that doesn't show boost.

I tend to use electronic boost gauges so I don't usually have to run a vacuum line into the cabin. I do know it can be brought in through the firewall down by the driver kick panel somewhere and snaked up through the dash, and along side of the A-Pillar, right to where you would connect it.

The COP ignition they show is a standard Intrepid/300M coil setup made into a plug and play. I myself have two of these, all be it maybe not as pretty, sitting in my garage, both of which are for sale. They do work, but are not the be-all-end-all of ignitions. With the dual ignitor setup similar to what we discussed in a very well thought out technical post a few months ago, they can work fairly well. Mine was working at boost levels 27+ without a problem.

I don't believe anyone makes a 3 gauge holder for the spot under the radio. I fabbed up a 2 gauge holder and could have probably put a third in there, which leads me to my next point....why waste a gauge to find out what the voltage of the car is? Most turbo timers have this function already. Wideband gauges for the most part have voltage functions(Prosport, DEFI, Etc). I think you might be going gauge crazy a bit with the setup. I'd stick with Boost, Fuel Pressure, Maybe WBO2(I'll explain why maybe) and possible the Oil Pressure. Lemme explain.

The WBO2 is nice and all, but in reality, unless the gauge logs the WBO2 reading for you to download later, it's just a number. Anytime you really want the WBO2 readings, you gotta log it onto the computer. The gauge is fine if you have it, but just having the sensor (Innovative LC-1 for example), and a computer to log it, generally does the trick. The Oil Pressure is good for knowing where it's at, but it's not exactly something you can adjust, like fuel. If I were to have an oil pressure gauge, I'd just put it under the hood where I could read it with the engine at idle/cold/hot/etc. During cruise, it really tells me nothing. The fuel pressure gauge I find best suited again, under the hood, so you can set your base FP off the AFPR. If the AFPR is 1:1, then at 45 base PSI, I have a pretty good idea what the FP will be at 20 PSI of boost (65 go figure).

The best gauge you will ever buy, will be a laptop.

/brox
 
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The vacuum line and oil pressure line can be routed through the firewall. Peek your head down to the right of the gas pedal and you will see the hole. I'm just taking a guess here but if your aem gauge is the same as mine (uego) then the instructions are quite helpful. Your red wire goes to a power source, black wire to ground/chassis, and the blue or white wire goes to your egr pin at the ecu.

You can find ecu pinout on this site somewhere.

Oil pressure line (if mechanical) goes to the oil filter housing. Then you just need black wire to ground chassis and red wire to power source.

A multimeter will help out in finding power and checking continuity.

As for a pillar gauges lines/wires,I zip tie them up under the dash. I removed my lower dash to make it easy to work under there and hide everything. I also had my console removed so I could assemble gauges and lines cleanly. Not sure if you want to but it's a bit of work to remove console. Makes dealing with wiring much easier though IMO. Seats have to come out though but that's easy, just two bolts and two nuts per seat if you don't have the power belts.

I'd start there, remove seats, then console and then a pillar and under dash. Then you have access to all the behind the scenes stuff. Start running wires and lines and then find your power points. then connect lines and wires to gauges and mount them. Check to make sure everything works, then button it back up.

Oh yeah, you can tap power source at the dimmer switch. This way your lights aren't on all the time, only when your parking/headlights are on. Ps. Your aem gauge will need a constant power source though. You can find it at the fuse block to the left of the dead pedal.

If anyone has any better suggestions feel free to add.
 
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alansupra94

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I will be having three AEM gauges too. A serial gauge (for AEM), Tru-boost and wideband. I plan on just mounting them sort of around where the badge is using a universal 3 port gauge pillar thing.
 

Struc

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Nov 24, 2008
Messages
764
Location
Oconomowoc, WI
I have one of these: Triple gauge DIN Panel

It fits pretty well - you need to bend the ears to make it stay in the panel, but then it stays perfectly.

You should consider an aftermarket coolant temp gauge. The dash gauge is very vague. Pretty much stays at the same spot from 120 to 225 degrees.
 
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Lots of good feedback from you guys. I'm hoping the installation will be a breeze. And to clarify what gauges I have have they are all digital AEM: Oil Pressure (0-150psi), Boost gauge (30-0-35), Wide-band O2 A/F ratio, and the voltage gauge with the exception of one ProSport EGT gauge that is digital as well. The only reason I got the voltage gauge to to keep an eye on my charging system because the voltmeter in 1886 now seems to keep acting up. There already is a bung tap in the exhaust mani for the EGT but not sure if I would need to tap the Oil pressure sensor somewhere for the gauge , or if I could just possibly tap into the stock oil psi sending unit that is currently not in use.
 

With a wideband now I'm not sold on the egt gauge anymore. I mean, if I were doing hardcore racing I could see using egt gauges but I'd tap each runner and have four gauges to monitor each cylinder. Overkill on a street car though.

Search in tech section, there are more pics of the oil filter housing but if you have switched to the air cooled housing then here is a pic of where you want to install the oil pressure line to. Nevermind the stock bolts on the Fluidampr pulley, they have been replaced with ARPs and that old timing cover has been replaced with a new one.




Also, that plastic nylon line is getting replaced as soon as I get more money burning a hole in my pocket.
 

My humble opinion, yes. You have ecmtuning and the wideband for air fuel ratio and knock monitoring.

If you are looking to fill a spot with a gauge then get the water/coolant temp.
 

Yes, it is. And no, I won't post more pics of it, you'll just have to believe me. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
 

Barnes

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Feb 9, 2003
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Location
Richland, WA
I'm 99.9% sure that isn't a drysump setup.
 

boostedinaz

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Apr 20, 2006
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Scottsdale, AZ
It is not a dry sump setup it's a Moroso oil pan.
 

donkeylips

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Jun 18, 2009
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552
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Rochester, NY
Quoting R34P3R62:
Would it be better to just get a coolant temp gauge instead of the EGT?


But don't mistake them for having similar purposes!
IMO you want to run Boost, WBo2, and oil pressure. Coolant temp wouldn't be a bad gauge to have if you're doing 2 gauges in one location and 2 in another.
 

I got the EGT gauge to just fill in a blank spot, but if anyone is interested in buying an egt gauge off me brand new still in the box pm me. It is a Pro Sport Evo digital gauge, colors can change frem red to blue depending on how you wire the gauge.
 

So I've been going back and fourth on how I am going to wire my gauges. I'm just curious if I can tap each gauge into the same power source or if it would be better to tap the gauges on the a-pillar to the dimmer switch and the other three to a seperate power source. Will there be enough voltage going to each gauge?
 

chrisfullwood

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Joined
Apr 28, 2006
Messages
256
Location
bartlesville, ok
Its not about power, Its about capacity for the amp draw in the wires. The more you draw through those wires, the hotter they will get, and could start a fire.
What i would do, is find a larger gauge wire tap into, and try to spread the additional load over different circuits.

The way i do it, is i run a wire from the engine bay into the car to provide the power. But use your own judgement in what you think. Chances are a couple of gauges wouldn't cause an issue, but add a few more, and other items, and it could be to much to run from the same wire.
 

OMFGeofffff

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May 5, 2006
Messages
867
Location
Burnsville, MN
Quoting Struc:
I have one of these: Triple gauge DIN Panel

It fits pretty well - you need to bend the ears to make it stay in the panel, but then it stays perfectly.

You should consider an aftermarket coolant temp gauge. The dash gauge is very vague. Pretty much stays at the same spot from 120 to 225 degrees.




Do you have a picture using that DIN plate? I'm curious how that would look.
 

Struc

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Nov 24, 2008
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Oconomowoc, WI

alansupra94

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Mar 3, 2010
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Wayne,NJ
I just drew mine off the cigarette adapter. I put a 30amp fuse and I don't think I will be going over that with a AEM wideband, AEM serial gauge and a AEM Tru-Boost.
 
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