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ACT or QuarterMaster Twin Plate

I'm looking for opinions/recommendations. Since the ACT clutch is different than what I was told when I bought it I'm guessing what it is. It looks to be a 2600 with a street disc. From the ACT site it's good for 400-415 ft/lbs. I recently purchased a used QM 7.25 twin plate good for 600+ ft/lbs. Is the Quarter Master to much? Anyone have experience with the QM clutch?
 

alansupra94

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/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

I think thats the first time I have heard someone saying a clutch is too much. You normally want to get something that is over your power levels. I would stick with what you have.

I personally have a ACT 2600 so I will be seeing shortly what it is capable of. I have been tempted to get a 2900 PP just because I might be over the 400ft/lb area.
 

curtis

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May 4, 2003
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Use the twin disk.
 

onesickcrx

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Quoting curtis:
Use the twin disk.

Agreed its also what I am running /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif
 

FWIW, I have a QM twin, MAP flywheel, no shim under the fulcrum ball, and a 2g slave cylinder (no expansion chamber)... drivability with the listed combo was ok, but I've heard that running the expansion chamber with the 2g slave cyl makes it very drivable. That being said, I have this clutch in a daily driver that only makes about 380whp (on the spring), and the clutch only lasted me about 4000 miles. I'm not an aggressive driver, and while I put the clutch to it's intended use, I would say it had less than 30 launches on it. Hopefully I will only need to replace the frictions.

Before I had the QM I ran an ACT2600 with a street disc and stock flywheel... That combo was in the car for YEARS, probably 15-20k miles of daily driving, easily 300 full power launches, and multiple track days.

So if your planning on driving the car more frequently than a weekend warrior, I wouldn't recommend the QM.
 

To clarify some things. I already have the ACT and I recently got a steal of a deal on a QM clutch. The ACT is perfectly adequate for my setup, but I guess I really wanted input on drive-ability/engagement. Who knows maybe I'll just try it in the talon. After doing about ten different searches I found the major info I was looking for.
 

DynastyLCD

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May 12, 2006
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Harwinton, CT
Quoting 92stroker:
FWIW, I have a QM twin, MAP flywheel, no shim under the fulcrum ball, and a 2g slave cylinder (no expansion chamber)... drivability with the listed combo was ok, but I've heard that running the expansion chamber with the 2g slave cyl makes it very drivable. That being said, I have this clutch in a daily driver that only makes about 380whp (on the spring), and the clutch only lasted me about 4000 miles. I'm not an aggressive driver, and while I put the clutch to it's intended use, I would say it had less than 30 launches on it. Hopefully I will only need to replace the frictions.

Before I had the QM I ran an ACT2600 with a street disc and stock flywheel... That combo was in the car for YEARS, probably 15-20k miles of daily driving, easily 300 full power launches, and multiple track days.

So if your planning on driving the car more frequently than a weekend warrior, I wouldn't recommend the QM.




just curious, whats the thickness difference between the QM and PTT? QM was originally my first choice, but i was turned away by the fact that you have to shave the clutch fork.

frankly, i love my PTT. 1g FWD slave, new 1g master, no expansion chamber, 1 shim, new pivot ball and fork, PTT discs/TOB/flywheel/hardware. 6k miles, dumb amounts of launches, antilag launches, rolling burnouts, rwd beatings, in the 400 awhp range. takes a little to get used to, i can slip it slightly, and drive it pretty smooth even in traffic. ive had the transmission out and apart multiple times, and every time i inspect the discs. they still have good thickness. its never slipped under any load what so ever. but on the same breath, people have reported smoking PTTs in 4k like 92stroker is saying. i also drive the way that curtis once described it: attack style driving.
 

curtis

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What sold me on them was Chris Beren ...he mailed his to me to inspect. multiple 10 second passes and 100's of attack style passes /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif along with 3 years on the street and he had lost .006 or .008 total from both disks. If you wear one of these out I learned is from non proper adjustment or slight crank walk. I bet 25% of the owners here have beyond spec thrust wear from running heavy pressure plates and 150K+ of driving. If your clucth switch is hooked up go now under the dash and unplug it and start cranking the car with the car out of gear and the clutch pedal out and your foot on the floor. Yea pita butt so is JSB'in. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

Damn I want my car back.
 
Last edited:

3rdstrikedsm

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My friend adam runs them in their rally evo 9's and they take more abuse than you could ever dream of putting a clutch through which is what sold me on them that and the fact that I ran one in my evo and it would cut high 1.5 60ft's on crap street tires all while preloading the driveline and then on to no lift power shifting with out so much as a whimper from it and the light pedal pressure sure beats a heavy junk ACT clutch that takes all the fun out of driving the car and promotes faster thrust wear as Curtis stated.
 

Telecaster

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Feb 26, 2002
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573
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San Jose, CA or Philippines
Having had both the ptt and qm, I like the ptt better. Maybe I shaved the forks a bit too much the 1st time for the qm setup. But after the 2nd fork broke on me after a couple laps at the local circuit track I was fed up and bought the ptt. With the ptt conical bearing and the 2g accumulator it works really well for street driving with more modulation play. ACT has a new twin disc out, look into that one also.
 

alansupra94

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Mar 3, 2010
Messages
1,909
Location
Wayne,NJ
Quoting curtis:
What sold me on them was Chris Beren ...he mailed his to me to inspect. multiple 10 second passes and 100's of attack style passes /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif along with 3 years on the street and he had lost .006 or .008 total from both disks. If you wear one of these out I learned is from non proper adjustment or slight crank walk. I bet 25% of the owners here have beyond spec thrust wear from running heavy pressure plates and 150K+ of driving. If your clucth switch is hooked up go now under the dash and unplug it and start cranking the car with the car out of gear and the clutch pedal out and your foot on the floor. Yea pita butt so is JSB'in. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

Damn I want my car back.



/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

So you want to start the car with the car in neutral and with the clutch pedal to the floor or not engaged at all? Kinda vague here.
 

SouthCaliVR4

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Jul 31, 2010
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North county San Diego
^^^In neutral foot off clutch till you develop oil pressure to protect the thrust brg. if you push in on the clutch to start the car all the diaphragm pressure is put to the thrust with nothing to keep it from wearing. leading cause of crank walk, IMOHO /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif
 

I'll wait for the QM to arrive then . I'm putting in a different trans so I can rebuild the one that came in the car. I guess I'll save the ACT for a rainy day.
 

3rdstrikedsm

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Feb 17, 2008
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32159, FL
Not to mention how the QM twin makes the trans feel much much better and it is much more easy on syncros plus high rpm shifting will be very smooth as well.
 

so which one is preferred qm or ptt? and where do i get one at a decent price? i will be putting lots of daily driving with weekend track abuse.
 
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