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Couple of issues with new GVR4

Hi

Just purchased a 91 Galant VR4 (JDM), EVO 0.

Couple of issues i have atm... that i would like to sort.

First off, when starting cold, idle is about 2200 rpm, and takes around 10 mins of driving to come down to 1000rpm. It will sit just above 1000rpm once the car temp gauge is at half, and then after about 5 more minutes, come down to about 800rpm like it should. Im going to change the thermostat to see if i can get it to temp quicker, but i dont think that will affect the idle speed.

The car also occasionally tries to stall at idle, and can bounce up and down rpm. Does this completely randomly, but only when warm. When cold its rock solid.

The other issue is have is that the clutch bites ON the floor. 90% of the pedal travel is wasted, and makes for a very short engagement. The first time i drove the car it was grinding into gears, even when stopped, so the clutch pedal rod was adjusted, and it stopped doing that, but the travel is still VERY short.

Look forward to ANY help on sorting these issues, as its really putting a massive downer on driving this car.
 

H05TYL

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 9, 2007
Messages
752
Location
Wgtn, NZ
The idle issues are a common fault usually caused by the Idle Speed Control unit - vfaq.com has lots of helpful how-to's such as this one link for setting the idle speed correctly, and this one link for testing the ISC unit to see if it has failed (quite a common problem).

Clutch pedal biting near the floor suggests a leak in either the slave cylinder or the master cylinder (or in the case of my car when I bought it, both) - these can either be replaced or kitted with new seals pretty cheaply and very easily.
 

toybreaker

iconoclast
Joined
Apr 30, 2006
Messages
3,581
Does the engine come up to temp quickly/correctly?

If it doesn't, replace the thermostsat.

If it does, could you post a picture of your throttle body?

Many times folks remove the coolant lines that run to the throttle body to "clean up" the engine bay, leaving the fast idle air valve high and dry.

The factory installed the f.i.a.v. to compensate for cold start up temps by bypassing additional air around the throttle plateuntill the engine warms up for cold weather driveability and to prevent stalling on a cold driveaway.

If it never "sees" coolant, it will take forever for the unit to be warmed by loose heat in the engine compartment, giving the symptoms you are describing.






... of course, it may be turbulent airflow thru that janky old jdm front bumper affecting the transfibulator. You see, those bumpers were designed and optimised for cars running around Japan, and they have been "known" to cause problems on other continents ... you should send me that jdm front bumper ASAP, and all your problems will be solved ... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif
 

Cheers guys.

Ill check the TB for coolant lines. Pretty much fits the symptoms. Comes up to temp, but is a little slow in getting there (compared to my previous cars, but never had a mitsi before). Once at temp its rock solid at half way.

how did you know the clutch cylinders were leaking? Could you physically see the fluid seeping out?
 

H05TYL

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 9, 2007
Messages
752
Location
Wgtn, NZ
Couldn't see any fluid anywhere as it was just leaking past the piston seal, rather than actually out of the cylinder.

It was the only thing I could think of that would cause the clutch biting point to be right down by the floor. I confirmed this by lying under the car and watching how far the clutch fork moved when the pedal was pressed and then doing the same with a mates vr4 that had a more normal biting point.
 

Where did you source your replacements from? did you rebuild or replace them? I know the dealer will do them, but wondering if repco or somewhere would be cheaper. Will call them soon anyway to see.

The point where it does bite, is also very solid. Gives you a real sore leg driving it too often. The pedal doesnt sink down or anything, just engages on the floor.

Also, is it best to just bypass the FIAV completely? Would an evo ISC fit my VR4 TB?
 

H05TYL

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 9, 2007
Messages
752
Location
Wgtn, NZ
I rebuilt mine because the bores weren't scored or anything, I can't remember where I ended up getting the parts from (it was 9 years ago).

It's best to have the fiav working. I'm not sure about the evo isc.
 

According to the fumes and fuel economy (or lack of), im pretty sure i have a boost leak.... guess this could cause the unstable idle too. Will be going over all the IC piping on wednesday and see if i can find it.

The TB does have the coolant lines going into it. Can you adjust the FIAV?
 

FlyingEagle

Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2005
Messages
1,635
Location
THE Ottawa
FIAV has not adjustment.
Don't forget to check the TB for vacuum/boost leaks, it more than likely would leak from the 2 shaft seals, and the BISS idle adjustment screw/o-ring.
 

KiNgMaRtY

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 8, 2008
Messages
835
Location
Corona, CA
A bad FIAV will cause your mentioned issues as well. Buy a clock off plate that only blocks off the FIAV and not the ISC
 

Took it to bits, cleaned it, put it all back together again, and now the damn thing is idle hunting like crazy. Need to try and get a new TB with ISC and FIAV on it, and completely replace mine. Someone has in the past had a go at playing with it.

Block off plates are readily available here in NZ, which is a pain. Due to our city trying to destroy its self with earthquakes, i cant just roll down and get one made at the moment either.

SO sick of this damn car.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

AnotherNewb

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2010
Messages
1,472
Location
Orlando, FL
Curtis did a thread on blocking off the isc with jb weld and retained the isc. Simple, cheap, and effective. A quick search should bring that thread up.
 

KiNgMaRtY

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 8, 2008
Messages
835
Location
Corona, CA
You can get a block off plate from just about anywhere. Try ebay even. They usually run from $10 - $25
 

Quoting H05TYL:
The idle issues are a common fault usually caused by the Idle Speed Control unit - vfaq.com has lots of helpful how-to's such as this one link for setting the idle speed correctly, and this one link for testing the ISC unit to see if it has failed (quite a common problem).



Did you set the idle speed per the link above?

Have you tested the ISC to see if it has failed?
 
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