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Drive shaft sag.

Diego

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 9, 2007
Messages
2,132
Location
In a van down by the river, Iowa
Hello, I need some advice.


My driveshaft has some sag, enough to touch my 3" exhaust and rub it. So I ordered these from GW, click hoping that it will help the ordeal.


Firstly they didn't come with instructions or anything to tell me exactly where they go.


Anyone have any advice, or done this at all... GW could you help a lil brother out? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif
 

Barnes

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Feb 9, 2003
Messages
6,249
Location
Richland, WA
If you don't know where they go, then you probably don't need them. Unless you *looked* at your stock bushings and they were shot, the bushings from GW will not help. Maybe you are lucking and your stock bushings are shot and you didn't waste $40. Your stock carrier bearings are probably sagging and causing most of the problem.
 

Diego

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 9, 2007
Messages
2,132
Location
In a van down by the river, Iowa
I've already ordered on my lunch looking at them and I was like.... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif


These are smaller then what I thought they were... carrier bearing, what does that run.

And regardless I will have my shaft out so I might as well put them in. So still where do they go? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

Edit: why would my carrier bearing sag my drive shaft?. I've replaced with a known good one from a member on here a while ago, but still needed a few things so I've let the car kinda chill. So now I have time and need to fic this sag in my driveshaft. < this is the only thing keeping me from daiky driving cause it makes annoying metak rub sound on my exhaust. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
 
Last edited:

Barnes

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Feb 9, 2003
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Location
Richland, WA
Even a good driveshaft can have saggy carrier bearings. Some sag more than others. But really, you won't know until you get under you car and inspect. The bushings you purchased replace the stock bushings that the carrier bearing is bolted through. Also, carrier bearings are expensive and require you to disassemble the driveshaft. There is a driveshaft rebuild thread somewhere that will show you what is involved.
 

Struc

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Joined
Nov 24, 2008
Messages
764
Location
Oconomowoc, WI
I just had my driveshaft down and put those bushings in. They take the place of the rubber bushings between the body and the carrier bearings. I would doubt very highly they would do anything for your driveshaft sag. The carrier bearings are what need to be replaced or repaired (look at the VFAQ - there is a "how to" for this).
 

slugsgomoo

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Joined
Oct 16, 2003
Messages
3,776
Location
Tacoma, WA
They can't do anything for driveshaft sag, because the part that sags is the shaft inside the carrier. You need the t-case yoke kit iirc which is the cheapest way to rebuild the carriers. Once they're rebuilt, the only way to really eradicate sag is to fill them with RTV (also in the vfaq) but that will actually increase the amount of noise you hear through the car (especially with solid bushings).
 

Diego

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Dec 9, 2007
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Location
In a van down by the river, Iowa
Well now I'm screwed.... I move next Friday..... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 

Be at peace child. You must learn the ways of "Ghetto Magic". I WILL TEACH THEE!!!!

But seriously, you need to get your car to colorado right? And I'm assuming you'll be driving it, correct? Here you go:

Obtain one roll of mechanics wire.

Raise vehicle.

Support exhaust.

Remove all of the rubber exhaust hangers. Keep for later.

Use the mechanics wire replace the hangers, only do it so that the exhaust sits low enough to clear the driveshaft.

Lower vehicle.

WHAMMO BLAMMO!!!! Ghetto magic, lesson 1, in the books.

Its cheap, easy, and gets you down the road, until time/money allow you to fix it correctly.

On a side note, I think I'll be adding Ghetto Magic to my signature.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Diego

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Dec 9, 2007
Messages
2,132
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In a van down by the river, Iowa
^^^ hmm.

I'm trailoring the car to Greeley just for the god dang sake it will survive longer if I trailor it.. and I'm not sure if the atmospheric pressure will do anything weird on the drive up.... I will try this tonight. I'm serious if your right I will paypal you some monies. For your help.


The Carrier bearing is NLA coming from my Mitsu dealer, but then again my mitsu dealer said my car was worthless because of age $0.00 if I were to trade it in..... A**hats.

Anyone confirm if they really are dead to mankind?
 

Diego

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Joined
Dec 9, 2007
Messages
2,132
Location
In a van down by the river, Iowa
That and ghetto isn't the first thing to pop into my head on a fix....

I bought my car Ghetto and broken.


All I have to say is 4yrs and a fair chunk of cash later I'm almost finished.
 

slugsgomoo

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Joined
Oct 16, 2003
Messages
3,776
Location
Tacoma, WA
i think the t-case yoke fix has the parts you need

click

click

If they'll give you $0 I'll give you at least $100 for the car /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 

No need to send monies sir. "There is no charge for awesomeness". (< From Kung Fu Panda. (God I'm a nerd.))

Also, use a heavier gauge wire and loop it 10-12 tines per hanger for strength. This should give you atleast 4-5 months before the wire rusts enough to start breaking.

Another more permanent option (but still not the right way to fix it) would be to locate a longer style rubber hanger to replace your stock ones. Check napa, and exhaust shops.

Man I've really been waiting to use that Kung Fu Panda line.
 

Diego

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Joined
Dec 9, 2007
Messages
2,132
Location
In a van down by the river, Iowa
Does it matter the caulk? My rear doesn't knock or whip around, just the front.... I didn't see the list of what he bought or where he bought in in the first and last links, if the stuff to do the the front is available I will look into a purchase, won't be able to put it in myself as my new apartment won't even allow an oil change......


Things will be different from a house I own to an apartment life.... Aurora man you got driveway room?

P.S what is that horrid smell by Ft Morgan off the I-State? Almost makes me throw chunks everytime I pass by...
 

That's the sugar factory. I have no clue why it smells so bad, the locals say it is only recent history. A couple of years ago, no smell.

Ill be in a house by the 1st of the year and you will be more than welcome to wrench there, if you want to make the drive to do it.
 

belize1334

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Joined
Nov 18, 2003
Messages
3,316
Location
Bozeman, MT
If you're gonna do the caulk method then you want something that doesn't require air to dry or else the inside will never cure. Window-weld is a good choice since it will cure w/o open air.

As for the carrier bearings, I bought mine new from a Chrysler dealer a few years ago (said I had a Plymouth Laser) but they may be NLA at this point. Call JNZtuning and ask if they know where to get them.
 

Diego

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Joined
Dec 9, 2007
Messages
2,132
Location
In a van down by the river, Iowa
Quoting galant1517:
That's the sugar factory. I have no clue why it smells so bad, the locals say it is only recent history. A couple of years ago, no smell.

Ill be in a house by the 1st of the year and you will be more than welcome to wrench there, if you want to make the drive to do it.




Ohh I'll. Drive to you, I drove to Chicago 8 hours to pick up a tranny...
 

Struc

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Joined
Nov 24, 2008
Messages
764
Location
Oconomowoc, WI
Quoting Diego:
The Carrier bearing is NLA coming from my Mitsu dealer...

Anyone confirm if they really are dead to mankind?



The carrier bearings are NOT NLA. I just bought two from JNZ a month back and rebuilt my driveshaft a couple weeks ago. They are not unique to the GVR4 - they are the same as the 1G DSMs.

The recall kit (front yolk kit) does NOT include the carrier bearings, despite what has been said here. The recall kit only has contains the front yolk and a attached u-joint. The reason to buy the recall kit is because the factory u-joints cost 2x the cost of the recall kit.

The driveshaft rebuild is not a "quick" job. Takes a good part of a day, and costs around $300 for the parts. Prices quoted from JNZ.

You'll need:
(2) MB505495 Carrier Bearing $78.30 each
(3) Transfer case recall kit $34.99 each (or spend over $75 on just the u-joint)

Optional, but recommended:
(4) MF445005 Nuts for holding carrier bearing to car $1.78 ea
(4) MF450006 Washers for holding carrier bearing to car $ 0.91 ea
(4) MB000938 Bolt - Driveshaft to Differential $ 1.24 ea
(4) MB154075 Nut - Driveshaft to Differential $0.91 ea
(4) MF450405 Washer - Driveshaft to Differential $ 0.14 ea
(2) MT203641 Washer holding driveshaft together $ 3.41 ea
(2) MA143517 Nut holding driveshaft together $ 3.91 ea
(1) MD701430 Transfer case output seal $ 5.66

The VFAQ does a good job of explaining the procedure of rebuilding the driveshaft. My only addition to what was said there is when you pull apart the splined pieces, mark them VERY well, so you don't reinstall them a spline off. I used a center punch to mark mine near the splines (rather than relying on the paint).
 
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toybreaker

iconoclast
Joined
Apr 30, 2006
Messages
3,581
Diego,

Do you have a trailer already lined up?

The reason I ask is I've moved a buncha vr4's around the country, and I've had the best luck with tow dollies.

They're waaay cheaper to rent, waay lighter and much more stable to boot.

Just drive the car up onto the tow dolly, pull the rear half shafts loose at the trailing arms, zip tie them up to the mustache bar, and you're ready to roll.



Sounds like we're meeting at Justin's for frosty cold libations.

Sweet!

Will that be an open bar, Justin? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

Diego

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 9, 2007
Messages
2,132
Location
In a van down by the river, Iowa
^ yummmm..


omg thanks for the clarification.

1st. We own car trailors.. so this is not a problem.

2nd. Me and homeskillet ^^ are gonna do a Jerry Rig for a bit so I can drive back and forth to work and such.

3rd. Im so glad im closer to more GVR4s on the side of CO I will be living in.

4th... 1st and 2nd round.... on me... at the Jet bar in Greeley if your down to drive over here TB...
 
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