The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.

  • Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
    In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.

How to install a front sway bar.

Terry Posten

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 16, 2003
Messages
9,009
Location
Davenport, Iowa USA
This a quick tutorial without pics. They are just not needed.

1 - Jack up front of the car and support as high as you can with jack stands.
2 - Remove both front wheels.
3 - Remove the top sway bar link nuts and pivot links out of the way.
4 - Remove both lower engine cradle brackets and gusset plate.
5 - Remove exhaust down pipe.
6 - Remove transfer case.
7 - Remove the 2 sway bar brackets (one bolt holds each onto the steering rack sub-frame).
8 - Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right.
9 - Laying on your back under the car, slide the bar over to the right (passenger side) allowing the right end to come up behind the caliper. Once you have it as far over as it will go, go to the left end of the bar and drop it down. It will just squeeze by the left lower control arm. It is a very tight fit.
10 - Reverse the steps. The hardest part is getting the new larger bar to slide back up between the left lower control arm and the steering sub frame.

Tip #1 - Do not use the sway bar end links to hold the bar in place while you try and install the two brackets back up onto the steering sub frame. It puts tension on the bar and you will never get the brackets to seat into the slot in the frame and get the bolt to line up and start.

Tip #2 - On step #9 above, do this yourself. If you have two people pulling on the bar, someone will end up with smashed fingers (it really does hurt quite badly).

Tip #3 - Before you reassemble any of the bolts back into the car (from all 3 cradle support bars/braces and sway bar brackets), use a wire wheel and clean all the threads. They will be rusty and cleaning them will help insure that you don't cross thread them or break them from getting stuck with rust.

This job took me about 3.5 hours with the help of air tools. But, I took my time cleaning all the brackets and bolts before re-assembly and my exhaust down pipe has "V" band fittings. You may want to give yourself 4-5 hours of working time just to be safe.

Good luck.
 

Terry: you must be the wikigalant! I'm very impressed with your restoration of the white car.. More power to you.
 

Rausch

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 21, 2004
Messages
12,049
Location
Cleveland, OH
^^^ /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif Bob!!! How are you sir! Nice ot see you popping in!


Sry Terry. Just had to say hi!
 

Terry Posten

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 16, 2003
Messages
9,009
Location
Davenport, Iowa USA
Thanks Bob. Stay around for a while.
 

curtis

Well-known member
Joined
May 4, 2003
Messages
11,892
Location
Clarksville TN
Bob's looking for another one I bet The metaclorians are strong in your system come back to the dark side. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Recent Forum Posts

Top