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Civic radiator(back from the dead)


vtecds1
linkfail
625/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 933523 posted 09/22/10 07:37 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Before anyone jumps the gun...I searched and didn't find the specific answer I was looking for.

I'm thinking of running a Civic radiator to clear up space in the bay. Problem is that I still have the ac intact and removing it is not an option. I don't plan on using it but it's there for the future owner. Does anyone have this setup and have overheating issues? When I did a search, seemed like everyone that had this setup had their ac deleted.



Avoiding danger is not cowardice. Courage without discretion is no good. Or you can just say Bahala!!!



Edited by vtecds1 (05/31/11 08:54 AM)

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Garfield Wright
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 933555 posted 09/22/10 09:50 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I'm running a Civic radiator with a/c & stock condenser w/stock condenser fan

I had a 10" puller fan attached to the radiator & in stop & go traffic with the a/c on the temps would go up to 215* F. I've since switched to a 14" puller fan & the temps have gone down to 200* F in traffic with the a/c on. I'm ging to add a pair of jdm hood vents which should drop the tepms down another 10-15*F when in traffic with the a/c on.

The trick is to put the largest fan you can fit in the space (14" is the largest I could fit) & get a radiator that's @ least 2.5" thick. Without the a/c on in traffic temps are normal. Adding the hood vents will definately help a lot as the 1g we put them on did see a drop of 15*F in stop & go traffic.

EDIT: Here's a picture of the aluminum stick welded to the bottom of the radiator to use the lower factory passenger side bracket.



Edited by Garfield Wright (11/05/10 07:53 PM)

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vtecds1
linkfail
625/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 933560 posted 09/22/10 10:00 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Thank you sir!!! Life saver for sure. I found a shop selling one local for $70.(Remind me never ever to post the same question in another board. All I got was stupid answers that didn't have to do anything with the question.)

BTW, I use to have a switch made to turn the fan on and off manually. You think that`s an alternative to have the hood vents? It kept the temps below the half way mark on the gauge(didn't get to log the temp). Helped out a lot in the Vegas heat. I`m just wondering is there is any drawbacks on doing this.



Avoiding danger is not cowardice. Courage without discretion is no good. Or you can just say Bahala!!!


Posts: 1704 | From: Las Begas | Member Since: 01/16/04 | IP: (71.228.34.34) | Report this post to a Moderator

Garfield Wright
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 933565 posted 09/22/10 10:06 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
No problem. Just make sure the radiator core is @ least 2.5" thick. Everything is wired in like stock so no need for a manual switch.

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vtecds1
linkfail
625/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 933571 posted 09/22/10 10:25 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I was going to wire everything like stock but do a "1G Cooling Fan Relay Bypass Mod". I haven't really heard anyone on the board doing this, but it worked well for me in my 1g and I use to have it on the VR4.



Avoiding danger is not cowardice. Courage without discretion is no good. Or you can just say Bahala!!!


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mitsuturbo
Banthony
555/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 933581 posted 09/22/10 10:58 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
If you live in a hot climate, you may want to run a slightly lower temp thermostat. I put my halfsize radiator in when i was in Utah, and it was like 90°. The car wanted to run at about 220° with whatever thermostat was in it (i think it was a 195° but can't remember). I put a 165° thermostat in it, and it ran fine in the heat there, but when i came back home to WA, and drove the car in midst of winter, if i didn't let it warm up completely before setting out, it would barely get warm enough to defrost the windows properly.



92 GVR4 555/1000 11.41 @ 128.26mph
97 CBR900RR
2012 Hyundai Veloster

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vtecds1
linkfail
625/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 933583 posted 09/22/10 11:04 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
IIRC, I have a 160 or 165 in there right now. In hot days, I would see around 203 at a stop and roughly 195 cruising. The car will be hibernating in a about a month, so no problem with it being up to temp.



Avoiding danger is not cowardice. Courage without discretion is no good. Or you can just say Bahala!!!


Posts: 1704 | From: Las Begas | Member Since: 01/16/04 | IP: (71.228.34.34) | Report this post to a Moderator

iLLeffeKt vr-4
Hertz pulverized mine
1759/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 934118 posted 09/24/10 07:17 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Like Garfield said, make sure you get a radiator that's at least 2.5" thick and a 14" fan.



Adrian
1759/2000 Summit White Sold
1991 Eclipse GS-X Sold
2013 EVO X MR - Daily

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OMFGeofffff
All I want is a dodgy
567/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 935195 posted 09/28/10 03:08 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Im gonna try to stick this here because it kind of has to do with cooling with the fan. When trying to put the temp sensor in should I weld in a bung or would it work by just drilling and tapping a hole?



-Jeff
Kensington Grey - A87 stock (EQ/input, no sunroof)
XBL - uh oh its JEFF

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Boostdtalon
Member +++


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 935198 posted 09/28/10 03:12 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Where are you trying to put the sensor?

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Garfield Wright
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 935213 posted 09/28/10 04:12 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Drill & tap is what I did. The radiator I used has a sensor location similar to the gvr4 stock unit. I simply drilled it out as it was too small & tapped it. Screw the sensor back in like factory.

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OMFGeofffff
All I want is a dodgy
567/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 935236 posted 09/28/10 05:09 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting boostdtalon:

Where are you trying to put the sensor?




I'd be putting it towards the bottom similar to where the stock one is located on the stock radiator.



-Jeff
Kensington Grey - A87 stock (EQ/input, no sunroof)
XBL - uh oh its JEFF

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Garfield Wright
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 935256 posted 09/28/10 06:13 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Depending on how thick the end tank is you might have to weld on a bung. Make sure it's not larger than the sensor so you can tap it for the sensor to fit in it.

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OMFGeofffff
All I want is a dodgy
567/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 935262 posted 09/28/10 06:33 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Do you know hat size the threads are? Hopefully I might be able to drill out the drain plug and use that.



-Jeff
Kensington Grey - A87 stock (EQ/input, no sunroof)
XBL - uh oh its JEFF

Posts: 867 | From: Burnsville, MN | Member Since: 05/05/06 | IP: (24.197.183.174) | Report this post to a Moderator

Garfield Wright
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 935318 posted 09/28/10 09:45 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Don't recall, sorry.

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mr.mitsu
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 935370 posted 09/29/10 06:11 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
It's a lot easier to just use one of the sensors on the t-stat housing for a temp sensor.

I have it run like this on my car.

Hope this helps.

Posts: 798 | From: canada | Member Since: 04/28/03 | IP: (99.227.201.162) | Report this post to a Moderator

Garfield Wright
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 935373 posted 09/29/10 07:02 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting OMFGeofffff:

Do you know hat size the threads are? Hopefully I might be able to drill out the drain plug and use that.




Come to think of it, it was the drain plug I drilled & tapped.

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dsmless
gay without homosexual tendencies
96/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 935918 posted 09/30/10 09:16 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I used a fluidyne unit for about a month in the june july of 2009 with full a/c the temps would always be around 105* in stop and go traffic the gauge would go to 240 easy so i had to turn off the a/c, cruisingthe temps were at 205 but I have a 170* termostat so really didnt give me the goal I was shooting for, I have gone back to using my mishimoto 1g unit with two pullers a 10 and a 14 inch with no problem temps in traffic are 180* but i did have to cut infront of the condensor and push it foward so i can move my radiator foward some



96/1000 back in the driveway jsb getting a
lego motor

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iLLeffeKt vr-4
Hertz pulverized mine
1759/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 935994 posted 10/01/10 08:53 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting mr.mitsu:

It's a lot easier to just use one of the sensors on the t-stat housing for a temp sensor.

I have it run like this on my car.

Hope this helps.




+1. That's what I did.



Adrian
1759/2000 Summit White Sold
1991 Eclipse GS-X Sold
2013 EVO X MR - Daily

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OMFGeofffff
All I want is a dodgy
567/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 946601 posted 11/05/10 05:42 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I just thought of something for people that want to do this in the future. In regards to the stock temp sensor on the radiator not being compatible with a civic radiator, wouldn't adding one of those temp sensor adapters for the coolant lines work on the lower rad hose? This weekend I was about to rip out my radiator and try drilling and tapping. Using one of these might work out better though. If worst comes to worst I'll have to tap the adapter in case thread adapters add too much length. Does it really matter though?



-Jeff
Kensington Grey - A87 stock (EQ/input, no sunroof)
XBL - uh oh its JEFF

Posts: 867 | From: Burnsville, MN | Member Since: 05/05/06 | IP: (24.159.200.184) | Report this post to a Moderator

Adorsey
Member +
1942/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 946637 posted 11/05/10 10:31 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I did this.



Just found a npt fitting that used the drain threads on the radiator.
Dremeled out the inside walls of the piece so it was not so steep. And screwed the stock sensor into it as shown.
Your easieset option, without any $ would be to just use a temp sensor on the t-stat housing, like mr. mitsu had said. And then just wire it in, within the loom.
Good Luck

Posts: 355 | From: mass | Member Since: 04/22/09 | IP: (76.118.50.83) | Report this post to a Moderator

OMFGeofffff
All I want is a dodgy
567/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 946728 posted 11/05/10 05:01 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
What's the specifics on that adapter? Is the thread size for the sensor M16x1.5? I tried looking everywhere for an adapter with m16 female and any sort of npt male(specifically 1/8"). What's the size for the drain hole on the radiator? Also, wouldn't putting the sensor in the tstat housing cause my engine to run hotter before my fan turns on? I'm down for putting it up there but I'm just worried about the difference in temperature is whether it be put before or after the radiator.



-Jeff
Kensington Grey - A87 stock (EQ/input, no sunroof)
XBL - uh oh its JEFF

Posts: 867 | From: Burnsville, MN | Member Since: 05/05/06 | IP: (24.159.200.184) | Report this post to a Moderator

Adorsey
Member +
1942/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 946764 posted 11/05/10 07:36 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I don't remember the spec's really. I took the plug for the drain plug to ACE alone with the sensor. And found a matchup. That Allowed me to take material out, to allow me to thread in the fitting without interference.
Its a Megan Racing radiator.



1942/2000 DD
[email protected]
93oct b16g

Posts: 355 | From: mass | Member Since: 04/22/09 | IP: (74.82.64.33) | Report this post to a Moderator

Adorsey
Member +
1942/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 946769 posted 11/05/10 07:49 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
If anything it would only be a few degrees between when you're fan would turn on. If it gets your car running then it shouldn't be a problem. What degree is you're thermostat? I have a 180* with a 1/8" hole drilled in it to slow warm up time. Never see over 190*.

Why 1/8"npt? Your best bet would be to just find one that fits.
Check Ace hardware or another local parts store, you might come out a winner. Lol



1942/2000 DD
[email protected]
93oct b16g

Posts: 355 | From: mass | Member Since: 04/22/09 | IP: (74.82.64.34) | Report this post to a Moderator

doelcow
Junior Member
575/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 947275 posted 11/08/10 01:33 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
I used the drain plug like him but I bought a 37/64" drill bit, a 3/8" npt tap, and a SPAL 195-TS (on at 195, off at 175):





The 2.5" civic radiator







I re-drilled the front cross-member and put bushings in:





and bought a FAL shroud fan for the radiator:





The SPAL thermoswitch switches ground just like our stock ones so I wired it into the harness fabbed up a quick upper bracket for it and Voila:












Edited by doelcow (11/08/10 01:38 PM)

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