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Clutch engagement issues

Kenny_Kline

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Dec 27, 2007
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789
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Seekonk, MA
This morning I went for a "test drive" in the Talon but my clutch wont release to put it in gear. I shut carr off, put it in 1st, start up and the clutch starts jumping. The clutch isnt releasing. I know it has something to do with my hydraulic setup because the pedal doesnt feel anything like what it used to feel like in my galant. Something is wrong.

I put in a brand new master cylinder, SS clutch line, 2G slave cylinder, restrictor removed, extended rod, clutch master rod is threaded all the way out to the point the threads are just turned in a few turns, I filled up with DOT4 fluid and bled the system free of all air. Cant figure it out. When I press the clutch, the clutch fork end doesnt go over as far as I have normally seen. Its almost like air is still in the line.

When I crack the bleeder, it doesnt seem like a whole lot of presuure building up. The pedal feels like its doing nothing for the first 1/4 of travel and the rest of the way it starts to grab and build pressure. As soon as I crack the bleeder to bleed in the slightest bit, the pedal goes to floor and wont come back up on its own. This usually happens on the first stages of bleeding, not the last.

I did not shim the pivot ball because this is the same setup I had in my galant and shimming the pivot ball was not needed. Only thing I changed was a new master, new line and new slave. The only adjustment done to the master is at the rod where it attaches to clutch pedal linkage. The rod is threaded all the way out to the furthest point. Threading it in would end up shortening travel, wouldnt it?

Its an ACT 2600 clutch, 6 puck sprung disc, ACT flywheel stepped to ACT specs (.612")

I also cracked the bleeder and took off the res cap and hand pumped (vacuum source) at the bleeder sucking the fluid out of the system to be sure all air is out and then bled the system normally with another guy. I am leaning towards a defective master. Some guys said put the 1G slave back in because the 2g doesnt throw as far as a 1G. I think its a pressure issue though. Not building up enough pressure from the get when pressing in clutch

Here are some pics of setup, clutch out, clutch in.

DSC07006.jpg

IMG_0492.jpg

IMG_0493.jpg

IMG_0497.jpg
 

thecman02

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Nov 3, 2007
Messages
917
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Kalamazoo,MI
Make sure the replenishing valve isn't blocked. Push in on the slave to check. If it goes in your fine. I would say it sounds like a faulty master or air. What brand master cylinder did you get? It doesn't look OEM. You want a 5/8 size Nabco Made in Japan for best luck. I've gotten them from the stealership and NAPA. NAPA being the cheaper/better place to get.
 

Kenny_Kline

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Dec 27, 2007
Messages
789
Location
Seekonk, MA
I have pushed the rod back in, no issues.

I feel the line isnt getting pressure. I feel its a bad master too. I will try to bleed once more for the hell of it.

Oh and BTW: its a Wagner master. 5/8" bore. Standard aftermarket company. Wagner slave too
 
Last edited:

Barnes

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Feb 9, 2003
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Richland, WA
Did you bench bleed the master?
 

Kenny_Kline

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Dec 27, 2007
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789
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Seekonk, MA
I didnt read the link yet but I talked to my buddy and he said you loop the line back into resevior and pump the crap out of it. He said I bypassed this method because i vacummed the slave bleeder with cap off the master and sucked all the air through, I shouldnt be having these issues and the only thing it could be is a bad master. He is an ASE certfified mechanic (not that that means anything) and we have bled this thing together over and over and over again.
 

Barnes

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Richland, WA
I would think the method you used would work too. Just for insurance if you get a new master I would bench bleed it.
 

Terry Posten

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Dec 16, 2003
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9,009
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Davenport, Iowa USA
If your threaded rod at the pedal is too far extended, it will not let the master "reset" each time you let up on the pedal. You need to set the threaded rod just to the point when the master is starting to be pressed when the pedal is all the way up.
 

Kenny_Kline

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Dec 27, 2007
Messages
789
Location
Seekonk, MA
so your saying thread it in more like halfway and that will solve my issue? that method doesnt seem like it will work but i will try it tomorrow before i take it out.

there is NO PRESSURE of any sort the 1st 1/4 of travel.
 
Last edited:

Kenny_Kline

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Dec 27, 2007
Messages
789
Location
Seekonk, MA
Quoting BarnesMobile:
I would think the method you used would work too. Just for insurance if you get a new master I would bench bleed it.



Um yeah... problem fixed. LOL. Bench bled and fixed. Dont aks my why the vacuum didnt pull that air bubble out. Drove it into the shop just now. I eventually have to shim my pivot ball and now I have to deal with a misfire issue.
 

gtluke

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Sep 16, 2001
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dirty jersey
If you adjust the master out too much it can't replenish the cyl and thus basically stops working.
 

AnotherNewb

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Apr 25, 2010
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1,472
Location
Orlando, FL
Just throwing this out there. When I rebuilt the master cyl on 1947 I opened the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder and put a 3ft section of clear tube on the bleeder nipple. I just sucked on the end of the tube lightly until the bubbles stopped, tightened the bleeder and was done with it. I have tried to use the vacuum bleeders with little success. Just my experience.
 
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