The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.

  • Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
    In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.

Front subframe install / alignment question

moduleunknown

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 30, 2008
Messages
193
Location
Elk Grove, CA
Reinstalling my front subframe - how do make sure it's properly aligned? Is there a trick to this, or does it not really matter (I would think it might). If the subframe bolts didn't wiggle around, I wouldn't need to ask this. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

All crossmembers were removed as well, so I can't just bolt the subframe in and check alignment with the bolt holes in the crossmembers. Current;y, everything is just hanging on loosely and has a bit of play if I want to wiggle it.

Any tips would be appreciated, just want to make sure I don't run into alignment issues later. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

Barnes

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 9, 2003
Messages
6,249
Location
Richland, WA
It doesn't matter. As long as things bolt up, you are okay. The only subframe piece that dictate alignment are the main k-frame, and it is one piece. And as far as I know it is positively located. The front-rear running subframes have a bit more wiggle room, but those hardly affect anything.
 

I'm in exactly the same situation. When I went to install the main subframe (k-member) after the energy suspension bushing install, the whole crossmember would start to shift sideways when I torqued the nut down. I could loosen it and retorque it and it would slide in a different direction, so I was never confident it was in the right position, especially given how wobbly the subframe studs are. If you look at the front control arm mounting bracket, however, you'll notice that besides the two studs and the bolt that hold the bracket to the subframe there is a larger bolt that passes completely through both into the chassis. This bolt has a pointed tip to guide it to its hole, and the sleeve it passes through on the bracket fits perfectly into the stepped hole on the subframe, keeping it firmly in place. I could be wrong, but I think those two longer bolts are used to positively locate the subframe. I ended up loosening all 4 subframe nuts just enough to unload the bushings, then installing the two long control arm bracket bolts, and then retightening the subframe nuts. Hope this makes sense.
 
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned
Top