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Tranny grinding

Brunoboy

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Joined
Apr 25, 2008
Messages
2,880
Location
San Bruno,CA Home of SFO
Hey guys, the first 200-250 miles on the new clutch and motor was great, suddenly the tranny got hard to shift and get into gear, I just changed the slave today and still griding, the oil in the tranny and tcase is amsoil manual tranny fluid , I know t case is supposed to have gear oil but that's the fluid amsoil said to use,( can the oil possibly be fine than turn bad like that?), it's got a eBay xtd stage 4( I know a lot of dsmers run them on tuners, oem tb, extended rod..., please let me know, thanks
-Shane
 

Muskrat

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Joined
Jun 13, 2004
Messages
2,107
Location
Lexington, KY
what gear's are you grinding?

With what you give, I'd start with checking your cable adjustment, and maybe changing out you're gear oil. Most people recommend GM or Penzoil synchromesh, or a mix of 1/3 Red Line MTL and 2/3 Redline MT-90. Also, I'd run Redline Lightweight Shockproof in the transfer case.

The trick to solving a problem is start with the little stuff and work your way up.
 

Brunoboy

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Joined
Apr 25, 2008
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San Bruno,CA Home of SFO
im grinding all gears, in neutral, trying to get into any gear, it grinds, it was fine when everything was first installed 200-250 miles ago. i never abused it, its new amsoil tranny fluid, and tcase is new fluid. I changed the slave yesterday and re-bled it, and it has a SS clutch line. from 0-200 miles it was a great shifting tranny, 200-250 it started to get hard to get into gear, and now it wont even go in.
-shane
 

Brunoboy

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Joined
Apr 25, 2008
Messages
2,880
Location
San Bruno,CA Home of SFO
ok so i looked under the dash, master is leaking. -__-, this now explains why i lost some pressure after i bled the system lol. Thanks for the help, i will fix this and get back to you.
-shane
 

jb4

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 7, 2009
Messages
46
Location
Hampton Roads
How old is the master cylinder ? Have someone push the clutch pedal and watch the slave rod to see if you are getting full movement. Sounds like to me the master cylinder is done.
 

Brunoboy

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Apr 25, 2008
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2,880
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San Bruno,CA Home of SFO
i get movement, but i see fluid on the inside.can someone tell me how long it takes to usually replace it? and should I get the WHOLE assembly?
-shane
 

Brunoboy

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Apr 25, 2008
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Location
San Bruno,CA Home of SFO
masters been in there since i bought the car. so idk how long its been there.
 

jepherz

Staff member
Joined
Aug 8, 2004
Messages
7,877
Location
KC, Missouri
You can change them both easily in under 2 hours. You can probably search by my username and fine some posts discussing the bendix part number which is actually the same as the OEM master cylinder. I think it can be had for around $40-45 from some places online.
 

Brunoboy

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Apr 25, 2008
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Location
San Bruno,CA Home of SFO
i did the Slave last night, in about an hour. now I just have the master to do. Thanks
-shane
 

Muskrat

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Jun 13, 2004
Messages
2,107
Location
Lexington, KY
Tip for making the change really easy. The end of the master rod, that connects to the pedal, actually screws into the rod. Unscrew the rod, and then replace, instead of undoing the whole thing from the pedal assembly. Hopefully that makes sense...

VFAQ might detail it. I can't remember.
 

Brunoboy

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Apr 25, 2008
Messages
2,880
Location
San Bruno,CA Home of SFO
what? I know theres a nut on the rod, are you saying to just disconnect the rod from the nut by unscrewing it? and then pull it out? all this without undoing the nut?
-shane
 

Muskrat

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Joined
Jun 13, 2004
Messages
2,107
Location
Lexington, KY
Basically the end of the rod is threaded. Unscrew it from whatever it's connected to, and replace it that way (the new MC will come with the piece that threads onto the rod.) It's much easier.

I know I'm not explaining it very well. Sorry. Once you get the replacement it will probably make more sense.
 
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