Transmissions Input Shaft Working Length

[Specter]

Okay so i have been working on my clutch. I am trying to keep this as simple as possible and as short as possible. I had to used a pressure plate on my stock flywheel and stock clutch. The pressure plate is actually little taller then the stock one. Now whats happening is that if you bolt the transmission to the block, i cannot move the fork by my hand, the thrust bearing is jammed tight on the pressure plate, as its a bit taller and there is no space between the PP and the bearing. My car is front wheel drive if it matters.

Okay now what i want to know is, if i move the transmission, 2-3mm away from the PP, what effect would it have on the function of transmission. I had loosen the bolts to let the gearbox just move away from the block like 2 mm and i could then move the fork with my fingers freely. So exactly what will happen if i tighten it by, for example, using washers between the bolts to move it a bit further away from the PP. Will the input shaft of the gearbox still connect, would i be having any problems? I guess 2-3mm should not be a problem but its better to ask.

Its night here and i would be having a guy over here in morning, around 10 hrs or so to help me fit the gearbox. I would highly appreciate it if some one could tell me what kind of trouble would i be going into if i move the gearbox away from PP. I tried to explain it as clearly as i can, please do not ask as to why i am using the different PP in first place, i just had to use it did not have any choice.

Thanks!

 

[Dialcaliper]

Shimming out the transmission doesn't sound like such a hot idea - problems you might have are water and road grime getting into the bellhousing and contaminating the clutch, and you might not fully engage the clutch disc. Also, you might not get enough engagement on the dowel pins that take up most of the torque loads from the engine, which could be catastrophic.

Have you already tried adjusting the clutch pedal linkage all the way out? (under the driver's seat). There's usually quite a bit of adjustment there which you can use if the slave cylinder isn't retracted all the way. I had a similar problem installing an aftermarket clutch on another car recently, and it ended up solving the problem.

Just FYI, the stock flywheel and clutch disc shouldn't really have an effect, and using aftermarket units usually won't fix it (unless you use a thinner disc). The main culprit is the pressure plate itself, and there's nothing really that wrong with using a stock disc.

A lot of times, the clutch fingers stick out farther on aftermarket clutches - it has to do with the altered diaphram spring angles and the fulcrum design that a lot of them use to increase the clamp load without adding too much pedal pressure. The tradeoff is that a lot more clutch pedal travel is required to actuate the clutch.

 

[Specter]

^^ Spot On! The PP is the culprit. The Thing was PP was touching the thrust bearing without the slave cylinder actually installed. There was just no space between it. If you crank it you could hear the PP running against the bearing. What i did was to add one washer to each of the bell housing bolts and that just got the gearbox 1mm away from PP, enough to make it work. I have run the car for a couple of miles, but not yet on a long drive. Seems fine for now.

 

[656of1000]

Is there still the steel shim plate between the engine and the trans? If that's missing or broken, that could be your problem.