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who has had this serious problem?

MellowVR4

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Jul 25, 2009
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1,662
Location
Milwaukee, Wi
has anybody on this forum ever strip a nut that supports the driveshaft carrier bearing? cause thats what i did, and it wont come off. i need help.
 

381gvr4

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Nov 5, 2007
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568
Location
Wakefield, RI/Meriden, CT
Access to a welder??? Sears sells some rounded bolt sockets too.... Dont worry to much. PBlast her and wait until tomorrow!
 

Muskrat

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Joined
Jun 13, 2004
Messages
2,107
Location
Lexington, KY
PB blaster and big vice grips usually work for me.

An a 6 point socket set is probably a good investment.
 

atc250r

Staff member
Joined
Sep 11, 2003
Messages
13,235
Location
Orange County, NY
If you've any hope of removing it without snapping the stud off the floor get yourself a MAP gas set up ($50'ish) and heat it up good before going at it again. You'll have to buy new bushings for the studs but its better than snapping one off.
 

MellowVR4

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Jul 25, 2009
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Milwaukee, Wi
thats what im trying to avoid having to cut the stud. i was thinking maybe i cant dremel that nut smooth enough then i can re- do the thread on the stud.
 

Armitage

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Oct 16, 2003
Messages
715
Location
Herndon, VA
Could be worse. I snapped the stud off /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 

Armitage, how did you fix it?

I suppose if you don't have easy access to a welder then you could drill a hole in the floor and stick a bolt through it from the top. ??
 

MellowVR4

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Jul 25, 2009
Messages
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Milwaukee, Wi
yes how did you fix it
 

fivestardsm

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Sep 8, 2006
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1,699
Location
Middle, Michigan
Quoting MellowVR4:
has anybody on this forum ever strip a nut that supports the driveshaft carrier bearing? cause thats what i did, and it wont come off. i need help.




I guess I am a little confused. Did you round off the nut edges where your socket just spins on it? or did you actually get the nut to turn and stripp the threads off from the stud itself?

If it is that you actually stripped the threads off from the stud, then you will need to do one of 2 things. Either attempt to put some leverage on the top side of the nut to pry it away from the carrier while you spin the nut with your wrench, or cut the nut off from it. Either way you need to get the nut off from the stud so you can see what the damage is.

If the stud is destroyed, then you will need to replace it. You can either cut the stud off flush and drill a hole through the center of it with the goal of welding a stud in its place from the bottom, or drill all the way through the floor board so you can go inside the car and open up a small area of the floor board in order to drop a new bolt in from the top and reweld it to the boss plate where the stud was originally.

Just me oppinions from seeing and doing a few of these over the years with both methods.
 
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Armitage

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Oct 16, 2003
Messages
715
Location
Herndon, VA
Quoting MellowVR4:
yes how did you fix it



The one I broke was the one that the stud doesn't go up through the floor but rather has a little raised stand-off. I drilled out the old stud, tapped new threads in the hole, and threaded in an exhaust manifold stud from the autoparts store that was the same size/thread pitch as the original stud. I then opened a little window in the stand-off and filled it with JB Weld. That was many many years ago and I haven't had any problems since.
 

MellowVR4

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Jul 25, 2009
Messages
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Location
Milwaukee, Wi
i see that these r all my options, so i will try one of these. i have another question if i was to cut a drill the stud from inside of the car, when i took the carpet off i didnt see any sign of any welded stud from the factory
 

toybreaker

iconoclast
Joined
Apr 30, 2006
Messages
3,581
fixed this problem many times have i
pic of partikular stud broken take you must
4 advice given to b gud.









Seriously... This is the technical section of the board.

Many people have had problems of one kind or another with the carrier bearing attachment hardware.

However, there's more than one type of problem, and you're not giving us much to work with.

I still have no idea what the problem actually is, or which stud is damaged! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

There are several different repair techniques that can be employed, but it will depend on the nature of the damage, and it's particular location.

best way to handle this.

Take a picture of the damaged area.

Then take a minute to put your words togther so we can understand what the hell you are saying.

Then you will get excellent advice from guys who have been there/done that, and made a quality repair.

Nothing good ever comes from having the carrier bearing attachment points seperate from the vehicle while it is motion!

Thanks in advance for helping us to help you! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 
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MellowVR4

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Jul 25, 2009
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Milwaukee, Wi
i will take a picture of the damage sometime this week. thnx
 

Dialcaliper

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Jun 22, 2007
Messages
1,287
Location
Mountain View, CA
Here's a tip I just discovered the other day on removing rusted underbody and exhaust nuts, especially in places where you can risk stripping or snapping off a stud:

After applying PB Blaster liberally and letting it sit (twice a day for a couple days if it's really bad), clean up the bolt. Then, slather the end of the stud/bolt in anti-seize.

Most of the badly corroded nuts I've had gall up have done so *after* they start running over the rusty portion of the thread. Clean steel typically won't gall by itself, but rust will. Letting the nut run over the anti-seize instead of the dry rust seems to help a lot.

If you've already seized up the nut badly, pretty much the only way to get it off is to either heat it off with a torch, or cut it off with a nut-splitter like this one (be careful not to damage the stud though)
 
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MellowVR4

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Jul 25, 2009
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Milwaukee, Wi
here are some pics of the damage, as you can see in the pictures that i started cutting but not sure if this is the right way. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif




 

Armitage

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Joined
Oct 16, 2003
Messages
715
Location
Herndon, VA
Since you've slotted the nut a bunch already you may be able to get a chisel in there and gently pry the nut apart to get it off now. If it does come off I'd still lube and chase those threads with a die and use lot of anti-seize when reassembling. You may not need to replace the stud at all if you can clean up those threads. It's hard to tell from the picture how bad they really are. But it looks like you won't need to replace the stud if it cleans up alright.
 
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MellowVR4

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Jul 25, 2009
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Milwaukee, Wi
thnx ill try that, its sounds like it would work.
 

381gvr4

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Joined
Nov 5, 2007
Messages
568
Location
Wakefield, RI/Meriden, CT
So far so good but SPRAY the F*er!!!! It should have been soaked w/ at least PBlaster. I would still spray and let it sit before trying to pry. G/L.

EDIT* Someone please post thread size. Run to Sears once its off and clean up the threads the best you can before putting it back together. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
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MellowVR4

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Jul 25, 2009
Messages
1,662
Location
Milwaukee, Wi
Got it, it actually came off pretty easy with an air chisel. Now i just gotta rethread the stud, and order the washers and spacers from extremepsi.

 

Armitage

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Joined
Oct 16, 2003
Messages
715
Location
Herndon, VA
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif Yea that thread looks fine underneath. Run the die over that thing and you'll be good to go!
 
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