The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.

  • Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
    In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.

Short shifter build - UPDATE w/ pics

Whoodoo

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 11, 2009
Messages
927
Location
Binghamton, NY
I've been looking into getting better shift feel and a shorter throw, so I made a shifter similar to the one you can get from JNZ. It was really easy, cheap, and it has a shorter throw than a 1g.

I started with an upper and lower shifter arm from a 3000GT.

First, I shortened the upper arm. Sorry about the cell phone pics, its all I have here.

1030091331.jpg

1030091341.jpg

1030091633a.jpg


Next, I made a new pin for the shifter cable because the old one is too big in diameter and I didn't want to do a sloppy grind job on it. Cut out old, weld in new.

1030091736.jpg


Next, I made new bushings. I made mine out of Turcite which is similar to Delrin, but is internally lubricated. It was more expensive, but it was worth it for the cool factor.

1030092147.jpg


After making all the parts and checking their fit, I painted it flat black. It would have been cool to powdercoat it, but I don't have any and I wanted to get the project done. Here you can see all the parts laid out. I made a new metal insert for the lower arm because the stock one has a little bit of slop and I was already running the lathe. Notice the order of bits for securing the top to the bottom. I don't know if it came from the factory like this, but the wave washer at the back does wonders for taking out side to side slop in the top half (there wasn't any even with the stock bushings).

1031091518.jpg


The lower arm is thinner than the stock one, so the bushings are made to position it correctly so the bottom aligns with the selector lever below. The thicknesses needed were around .150" and .350" I believe.

1031091532.jpg


I don't have my car with me at school, so a buddy let me test fit the shifter in his 1g. Here is a comparison (not the best, sorry) between the rearward throw of the short shifter and then his stock 1g.

1031091607.jpg

1031091608.jpg


Here's how much this project cost me:
eBay: $30 for shifter (this is including shipping)
McMaster: $20 for the turcite (1' rod 1" diameter)*
steel, welding supplies, paint - free because I already had them

You can see how easy it was to reproduce one of the shifters JNZ sells for $150 at one third the price. And, if you match this with bushings for the lower selector lever, bearings for the cables on the transmission side, and shifter plate bushings, you will have close to the best shifter set-up around.

Once I'm home for the winter, I'll do a proper comparison between stock GVR4 and this shifter. Thanks for reading!

*Delrin is only $5/ft for 1" rod
 
Last edited:

Damn you I was gonna be done with my car this weekend! I just got back from the junk yard and there's a 5 speed 3000GT /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/idea.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/idea.gif



Thanks for showing us that, should be put in the "How To" Archive
 

Whoodoo

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 11, 2009
Messages
927
Location
Binghamton, NY
Gah! I wish there was one around here in a junkyard... the shifter I bought for some reason didn't come with the rubber shift stop and I can't find any online.

You could still get your car done. It took me only a few hours to modify the shifter and I was taking my time and shooting the sh*t with the guys in the shop a lot too. Really the only thing you have to make is the bushings for the lower arm. If you wanted, you could whip those out in about 20 minutes and voila - short shifter.
 

fivestardsm

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 8, 2006
Messages
1,699
Location
Middle, Michigan
Or, you could make a kit for the guys that wanted to do this? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/idea.gif

You could make your money back on the materials anyway.
 

curtis

Well-known member
Joined
May 4, 2003
Messages
11,892
Location
Clarksville TN
something else to do is address the surround around the shifter by welding on a nut on the front and rear so you can have a adjustable stops. I've got pictures somewhere but probably easier to do a search under my name. I've built a few.
 

Whoodoo

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 11, 2009
Messages
927
Location
Binghamton, NY
I think I know what you're talking about... tried searching but nothing came up (searched your name +"adjustable" +"stops"). Why would you need to have adjustment in the stops? Doesn't the stop thats already on there allow for the same amount of travel as a stock GVR4 shifter?
 

curtis

Well-known member
Joined
May 4, 2003
Messages
11,892
Location
Clarksville TN
with adjustable stops you can toss the rubber piece and adjust after the shifter/trans is in the car ....that way when its engaged in gear your not over extending the shift forks.
 

Whoodoo

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 11, 2009
Messages
927
Location
Binghamton, NY
Hell yea! That one's kinda old... Built it as a freshman. Its bullet proof tho, so we keep it around to destroy tires and whatever else we need to test.
 

EMX5636

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 28, 2008
Messages
1,631
Location
Bucks County, PA
You aren't taking into account labor though. I can do things cheaper as well because I don't have to pay myself...

It does feel great though. I would have left the top full length. The shortened ones feel great in a 1G, but IMO, are too low in the the Galant.
 
Last edited:

curtis

Well-known member
Joined
May 4, 2003
Messages
11,892
Location
Clarksville TN
Quoting Whoodoo:
Good idea, but shouldn't the stop thats built in allow for the correct amount of throw already?

There are no stops just some bent pieces of metal and a big rubber triangle piece. If You extend the tabs longer then drill a hole on both sides and weld on a nut then insert bolts from the inside screw them down flat and after the shifter is in place shift into 3rd adjust and then tighten down a nut on the back side of the metal plate on the shifter assembly and lock it down then do the same for 4nd and then check 1st 2nd 5th and reverse. might have to grind down or adjust slightly. Send me a PM and I'll see if I can find pictures on my old harddrive tomorrow.
 

EMX5636

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 28, 2008
Messages
1,631
Location
Bucks County, PA
Curtis - The shifter you are talking about with the big rubber triangle is a DSM Style shifter. The JNZ ones, and this one, does have stops machined into the shifter itself. Not just the rubber hitting the shifter base.
 

Whoodoo

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 11, 2009
Messages
927
Location
Binghamton, NY
Quoting EMX5636:
I would have left the top full length. The shortened ones feel great in a 1G, but IMO, are too low in the the Galant.



How low is your shifter? Also, what knob are you using? I only took out about an inch or so from the top part which made it about half an inch taller than my buddy's stock 1G. I also bought a weighted 2G knob which, correct me if I'm wrong, adds a little more height still.

You'll all have to forgive me because I won't be able to give any feedback on how well it works until December when I'm home.
 

EMX5636

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 28, 2008
Messages
1,631
Location
Bucks County, PA
I had the weighted 2G knob. My current EVO knob is even taller still. For me, it puts my arm at a perfect angle when resting on the center console.
 

Whoodoo

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 11, 2009
Messages
927
Location
Binghamton, NY
I was looking for a leather one from a 1G, but I may just end up keeping the stock rubber accordion. I don't know why but it gives a certain 'this car is almost as old as I am' charm.
 

EMX5636

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 28, 2008
Messages
1,631
Location
Bucks County, PA
I managed to find a mint 1G leather one... Should have been stock. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 

Muskrat

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 13, 2004
Messages
2,107
Location
Lexington, KY
Quoting Whoodoo:
I was looking for a leather one from a 1G, but I may just end up keeping the stock rubber accordion. I don't know why but it gives a certain 'this car is almost as old as I am' charm.



I have a couple 1g boots in good shape. Send me a pm if you want one.

Make sure you have an e-clip on the shifter, otherwise 1g boot will just fall down.
 

Whoodoo

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 11, 2009
Messages
927
Location
Binghamton, NY
Quoting Muskrat:
Make sure you have an e-clip on the shifter, otherwise 1g boot will just fall down.



Got one, see pics.

But enough about my build. Has anyone else done anything like this? Anyone bought the JNZ bit? Which bushings have made the biggest difference in shift feel? I've heard all kinds of different things: some say putting bearings in the trans side of the cables is the biggest improvement while others argue replacing the rubber shift plate bushings with solid ones are the key. I'm hesitant to replace the plate bushings because I don't want chassis vibrations in the shifter. How much vibration does the shifter really pick up with solids in?
 
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Recent Forum Posts

Top