chucklesas
Well-known member
So I can barely get the car to start and when I do I have to hold the throttle at about 25% to keep it running (very rough running). I tried to play with the CAS to maybe adjust the timing some, that seems to help only slightly (seems I have to have it set just right to get it to start). I backed the BISS out almost all the way... also helps a little. Even after all this the car still won't idle well (I killed the battery twice already trying to restart it over and over).
So, some relavent issues that I think would relate to this poor idle, or lack-there-of:
1. I'm running a COP setup and haven't been able to set base timing (not that I could get the car to idle for long enough to do it anyway)
2. I'm using some PTE 1000cc Injectors. I have my ecu set up to run 940cc injectors; I read on a couple sites that this is the true rating for the PTE 1000cc injectors. I added 450 uS to the deadtime; I'm not sure what this should be set for. I've seen some people say 330-360 (since the 880s run at that), but I've also seen 450 uS called out on some websites. I may try to swap in some 880s and change my ECU settings to see if that helps any.
3. I have NGK BPR8ES spark plugs installed. I decided to yank the COP and swap in a coil-pack I have laying around. Once I got the COP out I went ahead and pulled the spark plugs and they are super-black (fouled). They smell pretty aweful as well. I'm not sure if I'm running super rich, or if this was caused by me going 100% throttle while trying to get the car and keep the car idling. I have an extra set of plugs, but I don't want to put them in if I'm just going to foul them up, too (I was just going to take some sandpaper to the electrodes and try to clean them up a bit. I'm also thinking maybe I should go grab some BPR7ES plugs instead.
4. I'm running a 482 MAF, this sensor was sitting in the car when I had the engine fire, I was thinking it would probably still be okay since it was away from the main heat source, but I may swap in a 1G MAF and change my code back to rule that out, too.
So right now I'm thinking my way forward will be to swap in a new set of injectors (maybe even borrow some 440s from someone), 1G MAF, a stock coil-pack, and standard chip.
Any other thoughts?
So, some relavent issues that I think would relate to this poor idle, or lack-there-of:
1. I'm running a COP setup and haven't been able to set base timing (not that I could get the car to idle for long enough to do it anyway)
2. I'm using some PTE 1000cc Injectors. I have my ecu set up to run 940cc injectors; I read on a couple sites that this is the true rating for the PTE 1000cc injectors. I added 450 uS to the deadtime; I'm not sure what this should be set for. I've seen some people say 330-360 (since the 880s run at that), but I've also seen 450 uS called out on some websites. I may try to swap in some 880s and change my ECU settings to see if that helps any.
3. I have NGK BPR8ES spark plugs installed. I decided to yank the COP and swap in a coil-pack I have laying around. Once I got the COP out I went ahead and pulled the spark plugs and they are super-black (fouled). They smell pretty aweful as well. I'm not sure if I'm running super rich, or if this was caused by me going 100% throttle while trying to get the car and keep the car idling. I have an extra set of plugs, but I don't want to put them in if I'm just going to foul them up, too (I was just going to take some sandpaper to the electrodes and try to clean them up a bit. I'm also thinking maybe I should go grab some BPR7ES plugs instead.
4. I'm running a 482 MAF, this sensor was sitting in the car when I had the engine fire, I was thinking it would probably still be okay since it was away from the main heat source, but I may swap in a 1G MAF and change my code back to rule that out, too.
So right now I'm thinking my way forward will be to swap in a new set of injectors (maybe even borrow some 440s from someone), 1G MAF, a stock coil-pack, and standard chip.
Any other thoughts?
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