I figure this is the correct place to post this question, which recently started today. While driving the ignition fuse under the hood would blow causing no power to the car. I replaced the fuse and it worked for most of the day until later in the night when the fuse would pop while driving. What I noticed is that the dash light would not light up when the headlight switch is on, but will light up when off. When the fuse pops, the dash light would come on while the headlight switch is in the ON position. Any help would be great, thanks!
The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource
Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.
- Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.
Ignition fuse keep blowing
- Thread starterTakumiJr
- Start date
Rausch
Well-known member
You sir have a short somewhere. I would recommend taking a look at what all is on that circuit (starting with the last thing you touched, if any) and going though the wiring with a meter. It would also be helpful to try to figure out which items don't affect the circuit (IE: disconnecting things you can get away with, if at all) and seeing if the problem persists.
Quote:
What I noticed is that the dash light would not light up when the headlight switch is on, but will light up when off.
Does it only pop at night? Or rather only after switching on the headlights ? Has it popped without the headlights ever being turned on?
Quote:
What I noticed is that the dash light would not light up when the headlight switch is on, but will light up when off.
Does it only pop at night? Or rather only after switching on the headlights ? Has it popped without the headlights ever being turned on?
Last edited by a moderator:
Quote:
You sir have a short somewhere. I would recommend taking a look at what all is on that circuit (starting with the last thing you touched, if any) and going though the wiring with a meter. It would also be helpful to try to figure out which items don't affect the circuit (IE: disconnecting things you can get away with, if at all) and seeing if the problem persists.
Thank you, I'm going to do that tomorrow but figured to post first to see if someone had an identical problem to this. I did recently wired up my fog lights, I disconnected the power wire to the battery. Funny thing is I used all the fuse I could from the window,fan,headlight fuse, etc. With the headlight fuse removed, the dash lights worked again in the ON position.
You sir have a short somewhere. I would recommend taking a look at what all is on that circuit (starting with the last thing you touched, if any) and going though the wiring with a meter. It would also be helpful to try to figure out which items don't affect the circuit (IE: disconnecting things you can get away with, if at all) and seeing if the problem persists.
Thank you, I'm going to do that tomorrow but figured to post first to see if someone had an identical problem to this. I did recently wired up my fog lights, I disconnected the power wire to the battery. Funny thing is I used all the fuse I could from the window,fan,headlight fuse, etc. With the headlight fuse removed, the dash lights worked again in the ON position.
toybreaker
iconoclast
- Joined
- Apr 30, 2006
- Messages
- 3,581
How do the wires at the o2 connector look? If they're sketchy, there may be a short on the heater circuit that will pop that fuse.
The other funkiness can come from backfeeding the circuits you stole fuses out of. Part of those circuits may still be fed from a different source, and you may be backfeeding them with a different source, leadin to some really weird funkiness.
Fix what's popping the ignition fuse first, and before you freak out too much about the other stuff make sure there's a fuse in every spot.
Good luck, and keep us posted!
The other funkiness can come from backfeeding the circuits you stole fuses out of. Part of those circuits may still be fed from a different source, and you may be backfeeding them with a different source, leadin to some really weird funkiness.
Fix what's popping the ignition fuse first, and before you freak out too much about the other stuff make sure there's a fuse in every spot.
Good luck, and keep us posted!
onesickcrx
Well-known member
Have you washed the engine bay lately?
Quoting toybreaker:
How do the wires at the o2 connector look? If they're sketchy, there may be a short on the heater circuit that will pop that fuse.
The other funkiness can come from backfeeding the circuits you stole fuses out of. Part of those circuits may still be fed from a different source, and you may be backfeeding them with a different source, leadin to some really weird funkiness.
Fix what's popping the ignition fuse first, and before you freak out too much about the other stuff make sure there's a fuse in every spot.
Good luck, and keep us posted!
Thanks a lot, the wires to the o2 looks to be fine. I replaced all the fuses I stole with all new fuses since they blew.
P.S. I haven't washed the engine bay in a long time. But, I did install fog lights and relocated my battery from the back to the front of the bay with a Oddessy PC680 battery.
How do the wires at the o2 connector look? If they're sketchy, there may be a short on the heater circuit that will pop that fuse.
The other funkiness can come from backfeeding the circuits you stole fuses out of. Part of those circuits may still be fed from a different source, and you may be backfeeding them with a different source, leadin to some really weird funkiness.
Fix what's popping the ignition fuse first, and before you freak out too much about the other stuff make sure there's a fuse in every spot.
Good luck, and keep us posted!
Thanks a lot, the wires to the o2 looks to be fine. I replaced all the fuses I stole with all new fuses since they blew.
P.S. I haven't washed the engine bay in a long time. But, I did install fog lights and relocated my battery from the back to the front of the bay with a Oddessy PC680 battery.
toybreaker
iconoclast
- Joined
- Apr 30, 2006
- Messages
- 3,581
Quoting VRausch4:
I would recommend taking a look at what all is on that circuit (starting with the last thing you touched, if any)
That's good advice right there!
I would recommend taking a look at what all is on that circuit (starting with the last thing you touched, if any)
That's good advice right there!
Rausch
Well-known member
I did recently wired up my fog lights
Part of those circuits may still be fed from a different source, and you may be backfeeding them with a different source, leadin to some really weird funkiness.
Winner.
Here is where I think your problem lies. Check the wiring at your fog switch and the fogs themselves ( as well as where you pulled your power from, etc). I think you are sending power through a ground lead somewhere: which would explain the dash light issues. I think it takes a bit to pop the fuse, as the temps and resistance start to climb when you are drawing more from those circuits. (Edited, as I originally had it backasswards /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif)
Last edited by a moderator:
fivestardsm
Well-known member
+1 one on the fog switch, and also I would suggest the headlight switch. I have had issues like this with both on 2 different cars, one being a Talon, the other on one of my galants, and I just replaced them to fix the problem. Granted it is very nice to have a ton of parts around to just swap and test, so you will have to do it the harder way and meter test the wires and switches to acquire the correct values of what they should be.
The only thing I would say differently about VRausch4's statement, is about the heat and resistance. The heat is actually a bi-product of the resistance. If you have a 16 gauge wire and try to push 12 volts and 30amps constant through it, it will get hot and melt, or blow the fuse because of the heat. If you took the same current, 12volts and 30 amps, and ran it through a larger wire, lets say around 10 gauge or so, you will not incure the same amount of heat because there is less of a resistance, simply because the larger wire is a better conduit to move that amount of current.
The only thing I would say differently about VRausch4's statement, is about the heat and resistance. The heat is actually a bi-product of the resistance. If you have a 16 gauge wire and try to push 12 volts and 30amps constant through it, it will get hot and melt, or blow the fuse because of the heat. If you took the same current, 12volts and 30 amps, and ran it through a larger wire, lets say around 10 gauge or so, you will not incure the same amount of heat because there is less of a resistance, simply because the larger wire is a better conduit to move that amount of current.
Last edited:
Rausch
Well-known member
^ That is totally true. wire sizing is important, especially when carrying a good amount of load. Heat is a byproduct of resistance, but changing the temp also changes the resistance. I actually misspoke: Resistance goes up when temps go up, thus compounding the issue. more heat= more resistance= more heat. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
fivestardsm
Well-known member
I had a good feeling that it was only a matter of a typ-o /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif Just wanted to make sure it was understood.
