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Getting angry with car stalling

deez

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May 29, 2004
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Chico, CA
so I have been struggling with the car stalling at stops for some time, and now I am over it. Its worse when the motor is loaded, such as running the lights, and real bad when running the AC. It died every stop today with the AC running. I have replaced the speed sensor, checked the idle motor, no boost leaks. The list of mods is at my link below, but its your typical E16G,FMIC,HKS 264/272, 3G MAS, Keydiver chip, safc, 720's, etc. I am on a mission now to fix this, no matter how pissed I get. Throw me any guess you might have. I need my AC, its going to be 103* this weekend.
 

ktmrider

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Sep 10, 2007
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Tempe, AZ
My car had similar issues, the problem went away after I replaced the alternator. Since your issue happens with a heavy electrical load that's were I would begin.
Do a quick voltage check with the car running ( no load/lights then loaded ) across the battery. Should not see the voltage drop below 13v. Also check for AC at the battery, should be less than 0.25v.
 

GVR4_1057

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Sep 3, 2008
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676
Location
Brucetown VA
Is your coolant line removed from the tb? If so did you block the FIAV passage? I had simmilar problems with mine and even though the ISC had good coils it was still giving me problems. I replaced it with a new 2G black ISC and now my car idles perfect and never shuts off. Also maybe try the BISS setting procedure.
 

deez

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May 29, 2004
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Chico, CA
the coolant passage is still hooked up. And as for the battery voltage, the gauge looks to read in range, but that may not mean anything. Now, when you test for voltage, I assume its above idle to get 14v, not at idle? And you are checking it right at the battery?
 

Lonewolf64

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May 17, 2006
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Location
Birmingham, Alabama
I'm watching this thread as well. I believe it has to do with my close throttle switch not being properly adjusted causing a rich condition when the throttle plate closes and the injectors do not turn off. It happens to me when I'm coming to a stop and put the clutch in at low rpm right before I stop.
 

turbowop

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Apr 29, 2001
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Yakima, WA
Quoting GVR4_1057:
I had simmilar problems with mine and even though the ISC had good coils it was still giving me problems. I replaced it with a new 2G black ISC and now my car idles perfect and never shuts off. Also maybe try the BISS setting procedure.



I'll +1 to the ISC comment. On 503 the coils tested out good, but when I swapped in the ISC from 1051 and zeroed it out it solved some idle issues I was having. I ordered a new one through Rock Auto and haven't had any issues since.

Try to find a buddy with one you can borrow just to try it out. It's easy enough to swap them, so shouldn't be a big deal.
 

Armitage

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Oct 16, 2003
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715
Location
Herndon, VA
I was having a stalling problem recently so I pressure tested the vacuum system. Turned out the hose to the EGR had blown off so I had a moderately big boost leak as well as a non-functional EGR.
 

1990ggsxnj

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Nov 21, 2008
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525
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Blackwood, NJ
I've seen some mods but no mention of BOV recirc. What maf setup are you using?
 

deez

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May 29, 2004
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Chico, CA
The bov is recirc'ed, and I am using the 3G mas. Keep the ideas coming! I want to run my AC without it stalling!
 

Have you tried adding any extra timing advance temporarily, by advancing the CAS a few degrees? Just stay out of the throttle for the test.
 

deez

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Chico, CA
I did try that, then I got knock. I am at about 3* with only occasional part throttle knock
 

That's why I said "stay out of the throttle". How does more timing affect the stalling? You are at 3*, which might be aggravating the situation. I can always recurve the maps to have more timing at low airflow/load, and less under boost, if more timing helps the stalling.
 

deez

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Chico, CA
Gotcha. Now stock timing is 5*, correct? Would you recommend starting there, or go more aggressive since I have cams?
 

I'd set it at 7*, just as a test to see if it helps with the stalling. Just stay out of the boost.
 

deez

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May 29, 2004
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Chico, CA
Monday when I have time to work on the car I'll do that. And check the voltage to the battery, if I can get spec of what that should be at idle.
 

brisvr4

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Feb 13, 2004
Messages
955
Location
brisbane australia
Can you log your tps? I had a stalling issue which turned out to be the tps only returning to 11 - 12% instead of 10 when I was stopping at lights. For some reason the car didn't like to idle at those levels and would stall.
Mine turned out to be a slightly sticky Throttle body.
Once I got it sorted out it never stalled out again.
 

ktmrider

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Sep 10, 2007
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Tempe, AZ
Quoting deez:
And check the voltage to the battery, if I can get spec of what that should be at idle.

Hey deez, sorry for not answering the above question.
Modern alternators "should" output 14v even at idle. Here is a great link explaining the reason click
Generally the electrical load test will tell you how good the windings are, AC test tells you diode health, and total voltage shows regulator operation.
Oh and on the TPS if you use a logger the reading should be between 11-12%. Do the math, 0.63v/5v ( target output by total TPS voltage range ) = 12%.
 
Last edited:

deez

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Joined
May 29, 2004
Messages
1,150
Location
Chico, CA
K, so I need to log my TPS, try the timing at 7*, and take the car down and have the alternator checked out. Anything else?
 

deez

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Joined
May 29, 2004
Messages
1,150
Location
Chico, CA
Is the ISC the same as the idle air control valve on Rockauto's site? I can't seem to find something called an ISC there
 

Quoting ktmrider:
Oh and on the TPS if you use a logger the reading should be between 11-12%. Do the math, 0.63v/5v ( target output by total TPS voltage range ) = 12%.



As I've explained before, the .63 volts is a 2G spec. 1G cars it is .45-.55 volts, 9-11%, a much tighter spec than the .3X-1 volt range a 2G can be set for some reason. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 
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