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Roll cage pondering

curtis

Well-known member
Joined
May 4, 2003
Messages
11,892
Location
Clarksville TN
Friend is building a 1st gen shop car and retiring the evo from track duties. I told him I could help him build a cage but he said oh I can get on for 2 to 300 I was like where. Well been looking and you can. So the knotching and bending is already done and with steel prices the way they are we can buy for only a few dollars more than doing it ourselves.

But was think after looking around what other cages might fit a VR4

I've found subaru sti cages, mustang cages, dsm cages, evo cages. Just wondering if anyone has ever tackled this by trying a different car design and then modifying to fit. I have a cheap hydraulic tubing bender and notcher so the hard part is over. But a 10 point cage for 250 is to cheap to pass up.
 

TylerAdamson

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Joined
Dec 26, 2007
Messages
1,034
Location
Iowa City, Iowa
The cage for 250-350 is going to be a general kit and probably poorly fitting and will require A LOT of massaging to get a nice fit. You would be better off going to a person that specializes in building roll cages and knows a thing or two about chassis design. Most places would charge about $100.00 per point which puts a 10pt. at $1k. A poorly designed and constructed could actually make a car more dangerous to drive.

This is just what I've learned through my research and experiences.
 

Look at autoweldchassis.com. I just bought a kit from them for my mirage.
 

curtis

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Joined
May 4, 2003
Messages
11,892
Location
Clarksville TN
Well I've built a few and over the years and there just a lot of work. All day striping out an interior and 3 days to build and then re install would be easy but your constantly pulling out bars, notching fitting re checking putting panels in and out and in and out of the car. I did my convertible mustang and with plates in the floor, subframe tied together hoop and door bars contoured around the door handles etc I went all out. Now this was in the mid 90's but the steel and epoxy paint only cost 80 dollars but its was 3 long days to make it happen but the car launched flat, handled like a bike when done and I could jack the car up on any corner and pick up 3 of the 4 tires everytime. If I can get the bends in a kit close I can modify and be done in two days and being 80% done already is worth the headaches of being a little off from the kit.

Thing about me hiring it done it would always wrench my soul knowing someone else built something on my car, all the old guys around here know If I can't build it I don't want it. I want things done to it other people wouldn't want to tackle anyway like connecting the front strut towers into the door bars as well as the factory bar under the dash, contouring the door bars around the arm rest, 2 x 3 box tubing across the rear seat footwell, plates with bars going back to the far corners of the truck, harness bar incorporated in the design as well as those sexy gusset plates connected to the a pillar and c pillars.


Where do you buy a hole punch set that pops the hole and then radius's the hole like a ve stack anyway. I need to buy a set. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif
 

curtis

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Joined
May 4, 2003
Messages
11,892
Location
Clarksville TN
Sweet looking now.
 

curtis

Well-known member
Joined
May 4, 2003
Messages
11,892
Location
Clarksville TN
There's a nice set for about 150 doesn't seam over priced, I'll look around and drive down and check harbor freight tomorrow.. I would cut my own but I don't like cutting steel.
Thanks Tyler
 

bigblock4g63

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Joined
Feb 10, 2009
Messages
308
Location
new jersey
well we do them all day. front start to finish its only 3 day for a 8 point that is with removing the guys to painting. and the pre made kits fit like ass.
 
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