4bolt with rear steer and rear hub?

[14u2nV]

Ok, I know I've seen many posts about it, but now I can only find a few. Is there anything special to swapping 4-bolt internals into the 3-bolt/rear steer case, like any other parts that will need to be adjusted/machined/etc? Is there a how-to about this anywhere? I've gotta pull my case apart to clean it up, and figure I might as well swap in 4-bolt, but I AM keeping 4ws.

as for the rear hub, since I'm not using abs, I can just pull the abs ring and pitch it right? and plug the hole of course.

 

[ktmrider]

Good link, Keydiver FTW as usual: click

 

[jepherz]

You will have to reshim and get the lash within spec when swapping the internals over.

Yes, you can just remove the ABS rings and re-install/plug holes.

 

[14u2nV]

Cool, those were the kind of posts I was looking for. Are all 4-bolts lsd? If not, is there a quick way to tell without popping the cap?

 

[curtis]

Make sure you use the pinion and ring from the 4 bolt. I've seen people try and just swap diffs and ring and cheat by leaving in the pinion....It works for a few days then internal devastation.

The ring and pinion wear in together and are a matched set after being run.

Now to do the swap the pump drive gear is pressed on the 3 bolt diff but the 4 bolt is already machined for it so you good with that. Use lock tight on bolts and measure out and inspect all teeth before pulling main caps mark the caps in the 3 bolt and also bolts so all bolts go back in same holes and caps don't get flipped around. Now to do it use some prussian blue layout grease or just some normal grease between the gears and spin them around a few times so you see the wear pattern. stop wash hands and take pictures. Then get everything super clean (auto zone brake parts cleaner) and start the swap. Re torque everything and lube up all seals with oil. Pinion requires a impact. After your torqued down use the grease again. make damn sure the pattern is still centered in the same spot if not you can adjust by adding and subtracting from the sides and adding or subtracting shims on the pinion. You can get a chep dial indicator from harbor freight that has a magnetic base. I think all of it is like 50 bucks. in the layout grease stages you can measure your lash by using a drift in a driveshaft bolt hole and jaming it solid by tuning it then hold set up the indicator and zero and then rock the ring gear back and forth and record measurement. If I remember all the mitsubishi I've done have alot of lash. Fords are usually about.013 but the mitsu's are up about .020. That's alot but maybe something to do with pitch on such a small ring.

Now after the cover is cured for a day get some cheap oil and flush out the sucker buy filling it up and then pouring back out after you have spun it around some. The fill and install.

If you run into trouble or questions just yell.

 

[jepherz]

You can tell by the sticker on the rear, although, much like the stamping on an ECU case, it only tells you valid information if someone hasn't already tinkered.

If you look inside the left half-shaft opening, you should be able to see 3 sets of splines in total if it is indeed an LSD unit.

 

[14u2nV]

Quoting curtis:
Make sure you use the pinion and ring from the 4 bolt. I've seen people try and just swap diffs and ring and cheat by leaving in the pinion....It works for a few days then internal devastation.



I was under the impression that I reuse the pinion and ring from the 3bolt, thus not needing to remove the pinion. Did you mean to put 3 bolt?

 

[jepherz]

No, I think what curtis is saying as that you need to keep the ring and pinion together. They wear in from the factory and should stay together unless you use some compound to re-lap them.

Correct me if wrong, curtis!

 

[iceman69510]

Kenny, yes you can use the ring gear from your existing 3 bolt and install it onto the 4 bolt lsd insert. They are the same. That way you don't have to worry about the matching. You do have to shim it correctly with the new carrier.

 

[14u2nV]

But to keep the same gearing, I should just swap the diff, not the actual ring and pinion. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

clICKy

*gotcha ice. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[Ralli380Gvr4]

yes, I just did this and it went together smoothly, It was re-shimmed and the lash was adjusted professionally by a tranny shop. I didn't want to take any risks. I'm bolting it in next week.