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Another 4WS thread

NARF

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Joined
Jan 27, 2006
Messages
296
Location
Vernon ,CT
The crossover line in the rear of the front rack is leaking. I see everywhere about the 4ws delete, but I dont see any mention of this line. Ide rather not get rid of the rear sterring, dose anyone have the part# for the line?
 

GVR4_1057

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Joined
Sep 3, 2008
Messages
676
Location
Brucetown VA
these are part # of the hardlines on the steering rack. these are the hardlines coming from the steering column going to the passenger side of the steering rack.

got from JNZ tuing.
TUBE ASSY,P/S CYL

1. MB564864
2. MB564865
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
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Mar 5, 2001
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10,964
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Michigan
These are expensive, but Mitsu does still have them.
 

BoostedAWD91

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Joined
Mar 1, 2007
Messages
2,937
Location
Danville,Pa
what size bolts can u use to block the lines off on the rack? do the drain plug bolts work?
 

4thStroke

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Oct 22, 2007
Messages
1,864
Location
Vancouver, WA
No, they are NPT. I ended up cutting off the end and found a plug that matched at a hardware store. Check out the plumbing section.
 

NARF

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Joined
Jan 27, 2006
Messages
296
Location
Vernon ,CT
If I was to do the 4ws delete, would I be able to plug the crossover ends as well?
Since im into taking the rack down to replace the line anyway, and the mess/ PIA the work is.... Im already so deep into this car, I dont want to be chasing lines or do it again. Dose the 1g rack fit in the same dimensionally? Or would you use a galant(non vr4) one?
 
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4thStroke

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Oct 22, 2007
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Vancouver, WA
1g DSM rack works.

Im not quite sure what you mean by cross over ends.

Just follow the lines that have anything to do with the rear steer. Rip them out and block off whatever is left. You can use a 1g resevoir, too, to get rid of lines for the rear steer on that (Mine are just plugged for now).

Its too tough, just tedious.
 
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NARF

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Jan 27, 2006
Messages
296
Location
Vernon ,CT
By crossover line I mean the line that goes from the left side of the rack to the right side, Thats the line leaking, not the 4ws, my concern is changing this line(that involves dropping the rack anyway)and having to do another in the near future.I think Im just going to go with a 1g rack and a NA galant res.

Anyone that has a 1g rack in the car care to comment? was there anything come up unexpected?
 
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I have the delete done.

Everything bolts right up. Cap the lines with NPT block offs.

AWS is like driving a fork-truck, booo!
 

ercp98

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Joined
Aug 5, 2003
Messages
1,340
Location
northlake in illinois
i think you have to replace the cross over lines. i think it is part of the power streeing, providing ps fluid to left and right side of the steering rack. i think it would be cheaper in the long run just to replace the rack with one from a 1G.i paid 75 dollars for those lines fron jnz. you can get a reman rack for double that amount.
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
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Mar 5, 2001
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Michigan
You do have to replace the crossover pipe, or it won't function.

I don't know where you guys are getting the NPT thread idea. The rack lines are 14 x 1.5 mm size. I just replaced three lines on my car last summer. If there is an NPT close to that maybe it worked, but I would be wary using it. Might crack a housing with tapered thread.
 

4thStroke

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Oct 22, 2007
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Location
Vancouver, WA
In regards to the 14 1.5, I think I know what happened here.

That bolt was pretty locked up, so I just blocked off where the actual fitting on the line threads. That was the NPT I was refering to (the ends with the rubber o-ring). I didnt feel like fighting with it.
 
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NARF

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Jan 27, 2006
Messages
296
Location
Vernon ,CT
1g steering rack it is then, i just wanted to make sure everything would work. With regards to the res. wont the level sensor not fit in a 1g? keeping the light on? or do you wire the leads together? Another question is what is involved with the rear pump? Do I have to drop the pumpkin or can I take it off with the rear still attached? I'm bringing everything to a shop for a 1 shot deal, so I don't want to be missing any how to's.
 
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NARF

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Joined
Jan 27, 2006
Messages
296
Location
Vernon ,CT
Well the 4WS delete turned into a 1g remaned rack, wheel bearings, ball joints, sway bar ends, ect.....

Pulled the rear lines(sort of), and looped a line on the res.

My questions are now involving the rear. What is involved with removing the pump in the rear and the rack?
 

tsiboy

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Joined
Jan 26, 2005
Messages
1,137
Location
Los Angeles, Ca
if you want to remove the pump your going to need a 3bolt/4bolt rear from a 1g
 

NARF

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Jan 27, 2006
Messages
296
Location
Vernon ,CT
where can I get a block off plate? After the front end cost, the last thing I want to do is buy a rear because of a PS pump.
 

NARF

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 27, 2006
Messages
296
Location
Vernon ,CT
I saw in the archives:
pump has been pulled and the drive cut, pump bolted back on.

Dose this work... longevity wise?
 
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