relocated batteries

[prove_it]

I wondering how many of you guys have relocated your batteries to the trunk? If you have I'd like to know how you connected the power wire coming from the battery to the old harness up front. When I usually do this I'd connect to the starter for a junction block, but since the starter is in a bad spot, I'm wondering what others have done for a junction block.
That is besides wrapping it in electrical tape or duct tape to isolate it.

 

[curtis]

I took a piece of phenolic resin and bolted a power terminal bus stereo distribution block to it . The factory fuse block thing on the battery bolts to it and has 4 or 5 extra spots for power wires with allen head bolts.

Then over on the passenger inter fender I used a side post battery hook up and re tapped a factory nut plate to standard and screwed it in so there's a block up front for the negative as well. Then from the trunk I ran multiple 12 volt and negative wires. Used what I had. Along the way I stripped away wire on the neg side and bolted where I could. Then up front there's multiple grounds going to the engine.

From the alternator I ran another large gauge wire to the fuse block and ran another large wire to the starter.

Don't fall into the trap of just grounding the trunk and calling it good. Lots of nasty electrical gremlins show up when you do that.

Its also a good time to install a battery kill and a circuit breaker in the trunk. Check ebay there cheap there as well as harbor freight for the kill switch.

 

[prove_it]

sweet. Yea about the ground wire, i do run them forward too. I always took self tapping screws and ran them straight through the wire to hold it down and it also grounded the cable every foot. Easier than stripping the wire and wont rust at all. If you run enough screws in it will ground very well.
So I went to the hardware store and rooted around for an hour. Then like a shining beacon I it hit me.
Isolation mounts!!! they have a bolt running up the top and bottom but are completely separated by rubber. Cheap as hell too!

 

[icurunnin]

I ran my old one directly underneath the stock location. look in the how to section under relocated battery (not in trunk)

 

[NateCrisman]

Another option is a smaller battery mounted on the subframe above the steering rack. This replaces the charcoal canister and requires minimal wiring changes. Lowers the battery weight, and likely is about 40% lighter than a normal size battery. No NHRA issues with cutoff switches either.

The battery was $21 at walmart.

 

[iceman69510]

I'll try and take a pic tomorrow of how I did it.

 

[Lonewolf64]

Odyssey drycell battery with odyssey mounting bracket.

 

[prove_it]

I like the battery on the subframe idea. Only thing about it is I'll be moving to Colorado someday so I wondering if the emissions laws would prohibit removing the charcoal canister.

 

[belize1334]

+1. Mine is in the trunk right now but that sub-frame location is my next plan. It'd be cool if somebody made a battery mount that attached to the bolt holes left by the removal of the charcoal canister.

Something like this:


Please excuse the use of MS paint. It's still my standby for quick drawings.

 

[BluFalcon]

Here's a few of my pics with an Odyssey PC925 relocated to the old MAS location.. Very similar to what Lonewolf64 did, just not as nice looking as his. I'm using an ETS FMIC/Piping kit, and the pipes clear the battery tray with no problems. It also freed up room for a hard straight intake pipe.

 

[mr.mitsu]

Quoting curtis:
I took a piece of phenolic resin and bolted a power terminal bus stereo distribution block to it . The factory fuse block thing on the battery bolts to it and has 4 or 5 extra spots for power wires with allen head bolts.

Then over on the passenger inter fender I used a side post battery hook up and re tapped a factory nut plate to standard and screwed it in so there's a block up front for the negative as well. Then from the trunk I ran multiple 12 volt and negative wires. Used what I had. Along the way I stripped away wire on the neg side and bolted where I could. Then up front there's multiple grounds going to the engine.

From the alternator I ran another large gauge wire to the fuse block and ran another large wire to the starter.

Don't fall into the trap of just grounding the trunk and calling it good. Lots of nasty electrical gremlins show up when you do that.

Its also a good time to install a battery kill and a circuit breaker in the trunk. Check ebay there cheap there as well as harbor freight for the kill switch.



Can you post pics of this set-up?

I'd like to see how you did it

 

[1990ggsxnj]

I think the subframe location is a great idea. Accomplishes getting the battery out of the way entirely, but no jumping to the trunk.