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Getting angry with car stalling at stops

deez

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May 29, 2004
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Chico, CA
So I have been fighting this problem for a while, push in the clutch and the car dies. It does it worse after being parked for a bit, but can still do it anytime. With the lights on, its horrible. It seems the extra draw on the motor makes the problem worse. I was just out driving around and it died on me three times. Click the link to see my mods. I am ready to put this thing on blocks and get another car.
 

ktmrider

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Sep 10, 2007
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3,128
Location
Tempe, AZ
Had the same problem, worse when I had lights on/high current draw. Alternator went out soon afterward.
New alternator, no more stalling.
I had noticed the battery voltage on my logger was around 12.8 or so, shoulda been closer to 14v.
Check the battery voltage with lights on and off. Off should be around 14v, on no lower than 13.5v, else the alternator is probably gimpy.
 
Last edited:

deez

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May 29, 2004
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Chico, CA
Makes sense, the battery has been seeming a bit weak.
 

dsmless

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Jun 12, 2008
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224
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tucson,az
had the same thing in my 1g dsm i took it to the local autozone and had them run a whole charging system test on it it came down to a bad alternator so it kinda took the guess work out of it a 135.00 later the car ran great and no more problems from what i have learned about these cars is that they eat alternators about every 3 years so I just got the one with a lifetime warranty when I sold the car I gave them the warranty info and about 6 months later they were changing it again so yeah in 2 years and n=months it ate it
 

BoostedAWD91

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Mar 1, 2007
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Danville,Pa
It also could be that ur idle is set to low, try turning up ur idle just a hair and that will keep it from stalling
 

Olson

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Oct 7, 2006
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Location
Moreno Valley CA
Deez dont you also have big cams??
 

deez

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May 29, 2004
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Location
Chico, CA
The cams are pretty mild, 264/272, and the problem existed before the cams went in. It just seemed to amplify it though. And the idle is fine, 850, it just has a hard time catching itself and just dies.
 

iLLeffeKt vr-4

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Jul 26, 2004
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NYC
Might want to raise it to 900 or 950. If you have DsmLink you can play around with Coast FC adjustment.
 

Lonewolf64

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May 17, 2006
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Location
Birmingham, Alabama
Quoting deez:
The cams are pretty mild, 264/272, and the problem existed before the cams went in. It just seemed to amplify it though. And the idle is fine, 850, it just has a hard time catching itself and just dies.



This is the problem I'm currently dealing with. Check the closed throttle switch on the throttle body with a Ohm-meter. If it is not working correctly, you will have stalling on most every as you put in clutch and let off gas pedal.
 

deez

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Chico, CA
I just checked voltage with my logger and at idle with or without lights on, 14.0V. So I guess the alternator is good.
 

deez

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Chico, CA
Lonewolf, do you have the testing procedure for that switch?
 

Lonewolf64

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May 17, 2006
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Birmingham, Alabama
click

I believe it is on that page.

This page shows its location as the red dot.
click

I hope this solves your problem, as well as mine. If the sensor is working correctly, make sure that you have a good contact between your spade boot and the sensor itself.
 

deez

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May 29, 2004
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Chico, CA
"At least in one case, the switch failed 'permanently closed'... this seemed to prevent the ECU from dropping into idle mode, causing it to leave the ISC wide open, leaving the car with an abnormally high idle."

So that would explain a high idle, not falling on its face and dieing. Correct?
 

deez

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May 29, 2004
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Chico, CA
Well that may be an issue for sure. Corroded, poor connection, and just nasty! Anyone have a plug out there and a switch?
 

deez

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May 29, 2004
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Location
Chico, CA
Update...cut off the old connector and used a new spade, sanded the sensor side, dielectric grease, and the problem so far seems to be cured. I will keep you all posted how it goes.

The connector was badly corroded and in some positions, it had continuity, and in some, did not. So it was inconsistent for sure.
 

Lonewolf64

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May 17, 2006
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Location
Birmingham, Alabama
I'm glad to hear that your problem is seemingly cured. I believe that your car was losing continuity because of the corroded plug which can in some cases lead to the car dying. I have yet to replace the plug on mine, but I was 90% sure that was the problem.
 

deez

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May 29, 2004
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Location
Chico, CA
Now if I can solve the problem of the strange sounding transmission/throwout bearing....
 

Quoting deez:
Update...cut off the old connector and used a new spade, sanded the sensor side, dielectric grease, and the problem so far seems to be cured. I will keep you all posted how it goes.

The connector was badly corroded and in some positions, it had continuity, and in some, did not. So it was inconsistent for sure.



ive found a couple of my wires like that also, very frail and if the outter coating wares off and it eats the copper inside out. Spade connectors and heat shrink are a must! Once you fix 1 problem, another one is allways waiting for you. After a 2 year rebuild on 78/1k she still has minor issues that need to be adressed.
 

deez

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Joined
May 29, 2004
Messages
1,150
Location
Chico, CA
Okay, so fixing that switch didn't take care of the problem. Any other ideas?
 
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