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Replaced clutch lever in clutch assembly.

a_santos

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 22, 2002
Messages
2,057
Location
San Diego, CA, USA
Hello everyone. I finally replaced the worn clutch lever on my pedal assembly. Good news: I didn't have to replace the shaft, which meant I did not have to remove the assembly. Bad news: I bought the shaft and bushings (will be selling).

After much research I found a very old post from someone who had replaced just the lever. This is worth doing, as it does not require removal of the whole assembly and you inspect the components that wear. After removing the lever, you might find that you need to replace the shaft. It was not the case with me, as the shaft end was not worn at all. I believe the shaft is made of harder metal, or maybe it's the fact that it was machined, but it was not worn at all. You can see from the pics that the wear is not much, but this caused about 1.5 to 2" inches of play on the clutch pedal. Everyone should inspect there assembly.

Here are pics of the won lever with the new one for comparison.





And a picture of my Protege5 with EVO IX wheels just for kicks. They didn't fit right unfortunately and are for sale in the for sale section. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

BoostedAWD91

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 1, 2007
Messages
2,937
Location
Danville,Pa
what all did u need to do to replace the lever? i just purchased a new lever to replace in my car, but havent really looked at it to much to see what all is involved.
was it hard to do with the dash in the car?
 

a_santos

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 22, 2002
Messages
2,057
Location
San Diego, CA, USA
No need to remove the dash at all. Remove the air ducts under the dash and you are ready to go. You will need a 14mm socket and pliers. That's about it really, no specialty tools needed. The hardest part was getting the spring for the assembly back into place. That really sucked, but I finally got it.
 

HHIVR4

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 6, 2003
Messages
5,446
Location
Hilton Head Island SC
I think I made that post when I first bought 1280.The previous owner thought it was his clutch and gave up after he couldnt figure out why his new clutch wouldnt work either.

Fortunately it was just the lever.$19 from satan back then.
What a PIA it looks like to get the whole assembly out.
 

spooling92vr4

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 7, 2005
Messages
2,511
Location
long island, NY
i have done many pedal installs on dsm's and a few vr4's.. its a pain in the balls, but not that bad when you get the hang of it.. its just not a 10 minute thing
 

whats the part # for this clutch lever? i think i'll be needing one soon. Also, what's part number for the clutch booster? (the part with the shaft attached to the clutch pedal?)
 

i've got some clutch pedal play that i think may have caused the booster/cylinder to start to leak after pushing too hard/too much in this freezing weather we've been having. I adjusted the rod(towards the engine) that connects onto the pedal and now #23 seems to shift a lot better, but prior to the adjustment, i saw a leak in the rubber seal which may be the cause of the creeking noise i get when depressing the clutch pedal. So does anyone know the part number to that assembly that the rod is a part of??? would that be the clutch booster or master cylinder?
 

There is no "clutch booster." That rod pushes directly on the clutch master cylinder.

The creaking noise is probably caused by the bushings on the clutch pedal assembly, or by the big spring.
 

is there any way to fix that leak in the master cylinder? ive go fluid coming out of the rubber boot that's exposed in the interior firewall. Never had that leak before and it seems that it started the same time the creeking started this winter. The spring and other components of the assembly seem to be well lubricated.
 
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