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CLUTCH ISSUES!!

I have now replaced the master cyl., slave cyl, trans fluid(3 times), clutch line(stock replacement). The damn car still won't go into gear without pumping up the pedal, and most of the time won't come out of gear without snatching it. I have exhausted all options minus pulling the tranny to change the clutch(WHICH FUNCTIONS FINE). I can't figure it out. HELP!@
 

CP

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2004
Messages
8,938
Location
West Simsbury, CT
What clutch/PP combo are you using? For starters, get a stainless line to replace the soft OEM line that comes off the frame rail between the hardlines.
 

tsiboy

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 26, 2005
Messages
1,137
Location
Los Angeles, Ca
have you tried adjusting the master cylinder rod?? if it gets better when you pump it, then there is probably still air in the clutch line. maybe you are bleeding it improperly?? i bought a speedbleeder recently and it has made bleeding the clutch so much easier, its hard to it wrong now.
 

sixsixtwo

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 3, 2007
Messages
164
Location
St. Paul, MN
Did you ever replace the clutch fork or the pivot ball? That commonly wears on our cars and can cause disengagement issues. Some people throw a washer on the pivot ball while the tranny is out to account for the wear that is caused on the pivot ball and fork over time. When i put my new clutch in I couldn't figure out why it wouldn't disengage. I pulled the tranny and put one stupid washer under the pivot ball and everything worked like brand new.
 

G

Staff member
Joined
Feb 24, 2004
Messages
8,896
Location
zompton

Id check your clutch pedal assembly my clutch pedal was worn, used an extended rod, which intern has bent 2 clutch forks, until i broke down and rebuilt the clutch pedal.



Hope it helps
Jesse
 

If the clutch work won't work with a single pedal push, but will after pumping it up to build pressure, then it's a hydraulic issue and adjusting linkages, cables, pivots etc. will have no effect. It sounds to me like you've got some air in your MC. You can continue to bleed the system as normal and hope to purge the air eventually, or you can remove the MC and bench bleed it. Do a search for more info on that technique. A third alternative is reverse bleeding, where you force clean fluid up through the bleeder and into the MC, which is based around the idea that it's easier to make a bubble go up than down. You'll need a large syringe or pump or turkey baster or something to move the fluid up, and make sure you don't overflow the MC as that would be bad, mmmkay?
 

jepherz

Staff member
Joined
Aug 8, 2004
Messages
7,877
Location
KC, Missouri
+1 on hydraulic issue. Did you replace the above mentioned units with brand new, OEM ones? Is the clutch fluid going anywhere? I think you need to try bleeding again.
 

I am now at my wits end with this damn car. I replace the mc, sc, added a new braided line from top to bottom. I bled it at least 30 times through the day, to no avail. I am going to now re-install the stock clutch line, and try the reverse bleeding method. If nothing comes out positive after that, i am selling the car. My integra has just had it's date set for completion, and i just found another car i want. I am frustrated beyond belief.
 
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