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engine rebuild

chrisb33

Well-known member
Joined
May 3, 2007
Messages
363
Location
Manila, Philippines
Ok this story might be a long read and i hope you can be patient with me.

set up:

2g 7bolt engie
garrett t3 turbo
stock exhaust manifold
510cc injectors
stock internals
DSMlink
Meth kit
Ugraded fuel lines
Bosch adjustable fuel pressure regulator
adjustable cam gears
HKS mushroom filter
609 MAF
stock head
FWD LSD
walbro 255hp
NGK BPR7ES


a year ago, because of mistune and faulty wiring on the box, my engine got into trouble. I broke one connecting rod, and my stock crankshaft had to be regrinded (im not confident with regrinding especially with the machine shops here in the philippines), and my valves got broken in half!

so what i did ia replaced my cylinder head, replaced the connecting rod that was broken, and as mentioned above, regrinded my stock crankshaft.

i also had my wiring fixed and purchased DSMLink for better tuning, plus installed meth kit to help knock suppression.

my pistons seem to be fine as of the moment but im also not sure if they're going to last that long, now can it handle my HP goals. there were abrasions on top of the pistons due to the incident last year.

what i plan to do now is to aim for 400-450whp with room to increase more when the "itch arises"

so my plan is:

purchase FP Green turbo (internally gated)
FP race manifold
Ross race pistons
Eagle H-Beam Rods
ACL trimetal main and rod bearings
ARP head bolts
cometic head gasket
Greddy Type RS recirculating BOV
Fidanza lightened flywheel
new clutch kit from fidanza (not sure which model to get any suggestions?)

im not going to race on the track but i sure want to give the new evos and the subarus a run for their money with my sleeper set up on the street.

Logically it would be better for me to purchase an eagle crankshaft but they really cost a fortune! so im thinking of buying an OEM crankshaft instead. Will this be a wise idea?

Does anyone know if the H-Beam rods come with rod bolts? if so, do i have to upgrade them with ARP rod bolts?

Will i have to upgrade my valve springs and retainers?

i really dont want to install cams on my set up coz i dont want to have a hard time tuning my iding. this car is intended to be used as a daily driver.

Am i heading to the right direction? or am i missing something?

if i can save on cost by not buying something listed above without sacrificing reliability of the engine, please let me know.

TIA.

chris b
 
Last edited:

Stock crank

eagle rods already come with arp rod bolts standard

Use clevite bearings instead of ACL

OEM mitsu 4layer metal headgasket over cometic

PTE SCM50(mitsu bolt on 50trim internal gated) save yourself half the cost over a Green
 

chrisb33

Well-known member
Joined
May 3, 2007
Messages
363
Location
Manila, Philippines
ok bringing up this old thread back.

due to unforeseen budget constraints, looks like i have to revise my parts wish list on my engine rebuilt.

i wont have the money to do the forged internals route anymore /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif and as i have been doing my research, the stock bottom end with a good tune can do decent hp numbers. so i decided to buy a brand new oem (nippon) pistons from myles (a member of this forum) and use my stock connecting rods and change my regrinded crankshaft to a new OEM 7 bolt.

hopefully with the meth kit that i have and the dsm link i can tune the engine to make 400ish whp without sacrificing the integrity of the stock 7 bolt bottom end.

I plan to however change the conrod and main bearings to either ACL race or Clevite. Still debating on which ones to use.

As for the turbo, my budget has decreased to less than $900 so i was thinking of getting either FP 18g with the new TDO6SL turbine wheel (internally gated) or the big EVO III 16G. what do you guys recommend? im so confused as to which one to get /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

I was supposed to get the FP20g
instead of the FP green, but the 20G is also going to be over $1k with an internal WG.

lastly i have a 1G BOV right now. do i really have to change it? would love to change it to some aftermarket BOV's for the bling. but right now, if i can save cost on an aftermarket BOV id get a Fidanza clutch kit or lightened flywheel.

lastly, with either the FP18G or Big EVO III 16G what FMIC size do you recommend? im sorta confused on choosing FMIC sizes relative to turbo size.

thanks in advance for your inputs!

chris b
 

Quoting chrisb33:
any reason why clevite instead of ACL? just price difference? or are the clevite's better?



Didn't catch this when you posted it. Clevite is just what I have always used and never had any problems. Plus quite a few big dogs and big race shops only use them over ACL bearings so that's what I stick with.
 

chrisb33

Well-known member
Joined
May 3, 2007
Messages
363
Location
Manila, Philippines
digit,

ok noted on the Clevite bearings. will seriously consider it.

guys any comments on the FP18g vs. Big EVO III 16g? and what size of intercooler? thanks.

chris b
 
Last edited:

cOmpressor

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2007
Messages
2,044
Location
Bay Area, CA
FP18g = higher boost threshold but more lag. E16g should get you going pretty fast on a decent setup and tune. Look at the dyno comparison to a normal 16g and notice the higher RPM boost but later spool.
 

brisvr4

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 13, 2004
Messages
955
Location
brisbane australia
^^ I ran my big 16g at 23psi daily on stock gasket and head bolts for well over a year.

But head studs are the next logical step /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

chrisb33

Well-known member
Joined
May 3, 2007
Messages
363
Location
Manila, Philippines
ok thanks. my parts list are getting clearer now /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif im still just not sure about what turbo to get! Big EVOIII 16g or FP18G /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

and will a stock 1G blow off valve cut it? do you guys know of any recirculating aftermarket BOV less than $200?

chris b
 

Quoting dsmer06:
If the head is off you might as well, the factory bolts won't hold over 18-20 psi.



/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
 

Polish

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 10, 2005
Messages
8,936
Location
NE, IN
Quoting dsmer06:
If the head is off you might as well, the factory bolts won't hold over 18-20 psi.



/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif You are hilarious.
 

4orced4door

Moderator
Joined
Jul 19, 2002
Messages
9,846
Location
Raleigh, NC
Quoting dsmer06:
If the head is off you might as well, the factory bolts won't hold over 18-20 psi.



Wow, you must have a HUGE turbo.
 

cOmpressor

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2007
Messages
2,044
Location
Bay Area, CA
Quote:
Wow, you must have a HUGE turbo.


That's what she said. ZING!
 
Last edited:

cOmpressor

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2007
Messages
2,044
Location
Bay Area, CA
"Big EVOIII 16g or FP18G"
What is your budget? I would stick with the E16g and have fun. ARP FTW also.
 
Last edited:

chrisb33

Well-known member
Joined
May 3, 2007
Messages
363
Location
Manila, Philippines
Quoting cOmpressor:
"Big EVOIII 16g or FP18G"
What is your budget? I would stick with the E16g and have fun. ARP FTW also.



well my budget is around $850 max on a brand new internally gated turbo. im leaning towards the FP18G because of the new TD06SL2 turbine wheel. plus it flows at around 600cfm which is good for around 400whp according to their website.

what is the flow rate of the BIG EVOII 16g?

plus im aiming at around 400ish whp. if the Big EVOIII 16g can give me that power with my mods, then i might as well get it and save $200!

chris b
 
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