Ryan, I simply got tired of replacing my alternator every year and I really do not drive my VR4 that much. It has a little over 110000 miles. Put maybe 12000 miles on it in 5 years! The car has always had crap voltage. When I bought it from my buddy years ago, it already had the battery in the trunk. I was not happy with it but at least the voltage would stay at 13.0-13.1V uptop. Not sure what happened last year, but I would regularly see voltage in the 12's...and it would even go into the 11's. Replaced the Autozone alternator and the new junk did the same thing. Enough. When I went to warranty the junk alternator, they could not order me another POS reman so I got my money back, plus more (prices jumped up quite a bit) and went and bought a regular 96 Saturn DOHC alternator from O'reillys. It was like $125'ish after tax. You need to get the one with the external fan. For some reason, the other internal fan version has a different harness which is harder to source. I picked up the Saturn Jay Racing kit (with the steel bracket) rather pricy for what it is at $150 but no better options. Beautiful anodized pieces. Engine was out of the car so I got to mount the alternator to see what it would look like and how much space I was working with. The relocation kit does not work if you have AC as it uses the same mounting holes. If you have seen any photos of this on a 1G, it is similar. I took some pix but they are not uploaded. I relocated my battery to the engine bay and mounted it onto the subframe by the transmission. I did something similar in my old 1G. I made some sort of bracket that mounted it to prevent any movement. The Saturn alternator harness I had had 4 wires. I used the bigger red signal wire and spliced it to the fuel pump trigger located all the way back into the trunk. I figured the further away the signal was, the better the voltage would be. I then wired the small wire on the factory harness (alternator) to the "L" wire on the Saturn alternator. That's it. I ran a 4AWG wire from the alternator B+ terminal directly to the positive of the battery (or junction block, preferably fused) if you have one where your starter is. I then ran a 4AWG negative from the alternator pivoting bolt to the negative terminal of the battery. A good idea to grind the anodizing coating off the alternator mounting bracket. On the battery, I ran a 4AWG from the negative ground terminal to the firewall. I ran another 4AWG wire from the battery to the transmission mounting bolt. I turned the car on and was shocked to see almost 15V at 900rpm idle. Turning the lights on and turning the fan on full blast had almost 0 effect on the volatge. The one thing that would drop the voltage a little was my high output Spal fan since it lowers the rpm a tad bit. Overall, very excited. I need more field testing. FYI, I do have a JMS boost a pump that runs my dual AEM pumps at 15'ish volts. System works great. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif