bowler31185
Active member
I was trying to find an article about this but couldn't find any. I was wondering what they should be degreed to? I have them currently at +3 but recently was informed I could be wrong. Any help would be great. Thanks.
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Cam Degree
- Thread starterbowler31185
- Start date
CutlassJim
Well-known member
Not to be a jerk but judging by your question you have no idea the point of degreeing cams. There is a LOT of info on the interwebs about the theory behind it as well as the procedure to do it. Having just completed it myself on my new motor I can tell you it's not something that you'll learn overnight and there is no set number someone on the net can give you.
prove_it
Well-known member
Right, you don't just throw them on and pick a number. Serious engine damage can occur. They are meant to be measured and adjusted to get the centerline of the cam spot on with TDC. After that you go on a dyno, dial in fuel and timing, then make adjustments to the cams one at a time. Then re adjust your fuel and timing.
In reality, your spending well over 500 bucks to have a tuner CORRECTLY tune them. ONLY AFTER PROPERLY SETTING THEM UP.
In reality, your spending well over 500 bucks to have a tuner CORRECTLY tune them. ONLY AFTER PROPERLY SETTING THEM UP.
tektic
Well-known member
I did a lot of studying up on this and am currently wondering if if did this correctly myself.
The basic theory however is to find the measured center line of the cam and align it to the crank at the degree designated on your cam card.
The basic theory however is to find the measured center line of the cam and align it to the crank at the degree designated on your cam card.
bowler31185
Active member
Cutlass I know a lot more than most about tuning just not as much with the cams. As well know that tuning the cams had to be done on a dyno and that they move your powerband when in the proper degree. Plus if i knew nothing then how would i know that mine are degreed and were done while on a dyno. I was informed that all DSM's were advanced and Evo's retarted. That is why i got on here to check with the group. But thanx for the info that I already knew.
donniekak
Well-known member
First, you need to degree them to the specs they were designed. You need a piston stop, dial indicator, solid lifter, and degree wheel.
CutlassJim
Well-known member
And someones butt hurt.
I already said my point wasn't to insult you in any way. I don't know you from a hole in the wall or what you do or do not know but it was blatantly obvious from your question that you don't know the basics of cam degreeing and weren't asking a highly technical question. If you did you would know that there is no answer anyone can give you via a forum.
FIRST you would ZERO out your cams using a set of solid lifters, a piston stop, a degree wheel, a dial indicator and mount and the cam card to account for any variation in the distance from the crank centerline to the cams centerline (deck height, head thickness, headgasket used). This is NOT the same as setting the cam gears to zero. The zero for your engine might be -2 ex +1 in.
THEN from there you can add or remove individual cam timing to play with the shape and location in the rev range of your powerband based on driving style and goals for the vehicle.
The blanket statement that ALL DSM's are advanced and ALL Evo's retarded is in itself retarded. Advanced and retarded from what? A cheeseburger? My crazy mother?
I'm guessing you knew they were set at +3 because you have eyes and can see the cam gear and I have no idea how you knew they were done while on a dyno because you never said that they were or weren't.
I already said my point wasn't to insult you in any way. I don't know you from a hole in the wall or what you do or do not know but it was blatantly obvious from your question that you don't know the basics of cam degreeing and weren't asking a highly technical question. If you did you would know that there is no answer anyone can give you via a forum.
FIRST you would ZERO out your cams using a set of solid lifters, a piston stop, a degree wheel, a dial indicator and mount and the cam card to account for any variation in the distance from the crank centerline to the cams centerline (deck height, head thickness, headgasket used). This is NOT the same as setting the cam gears to zero. The zero for your engine might be -2 ex +1 in.
THEN from there you can add or remove individual cam timing to play with the shape and location in the rev range of your powerband based on driving style and goals for the vehicle.
The blanket statement that ALL DSM's are advanced and ALL Evo's retarded is in itself retarded. Advanced and retarded from what? A cheeseburger? My crazy mother?
I'm guessing you knew they were set at +3 because you have eyes and can see the cam gear and I have no idea how you knew they were done while on a dyno because you never said that they were or weren't.
GSTwithPSI
Well-known member
Quoting CutlassJim:
The blanket statement that ALL DSM's are advanced and ALL Evo's retarded is in itself retarded.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowrofl.gif
OP, for starters, what cams do you have? Some information about your car would be helpful.
Also, is the motor out of the car? If not, you'll be hard pressed to do this at all the correct way.
The blanket statement that ALL DSM's are advanced and ALL Evo's retarded is in itself retarded.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowrofl.gif
OP, for starters, what cams do you have? Some information about your car would be helpful.
Also, is the motor out of the car? If not, you'll be hard pressed to do this at all the correct way.
BENE38A
Well-known member
There is no single number to go to when degreeing cams, alot of things vary but I have seen Jafros video on youtube and although it was not something I felt comfortable doing on my current engine build it helped me understand what the point of doing it was.
curtis
Well-known member
Cutlass Jim nice signature /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
bowler31185
Active member
Quoting CutlassJim:
FIRST you would ZERO out your cams using a set of solid lifters, a piston stop, a degree wheel, a dial indicator and mount and the cam card to account for any variation in the distance from the crank centerline to the cams centerline (deck height, head thickness, headgasket used). This is NOT the same as setting the cam gears to zero. The zero for your enginemight be -2 ex +1 in.
THEN from there you can add or remove individual cam timing to play with the shape and location in the rev range of your powerband based on driving style and goals for the vehicle.
Now was that hard to do. That is all I was asking and wanting to know.
Quoting GSTwithPSI:
OP, for starters, what cams do you have? Some information about your car would be helpful.
Also, is the motor out of the car? If not, you'll be hard pressed to do this at all the correct way.
Yes the motor is out of the car. I have a set of GSC 280s, 1mm over valves(intake and exhaust), Dual Valve springs, Wiesco/Eagle combo, lightened crank, lightened flywheel, Sleeper 16g, Evo 7 front mount, Aluminum intake w/ 90mm TB, COP, DSM Link, 3inch turbo back.
FIRST you would ZERO out your cams using a set of solid lifters, a piston stop, a degree wheel, a dial indicator and mount and the cam card to account for any variation in the distance from the crank centerline to the cams centerline (deck height, head thickness, headgasket used). This is NOT the same as setting the cam gears to zero. The zero for your enginemight be -2 ex +1 in.
THEN from there you can add or remove individual cam timing to play with the shape and location in the rev range of your powerband based on driving style and goals for the vehicle.
Now was that hard to do. That is all I was asking and wanting to know.
Quoting GSTwithPSI:
OP, for starters, what cams do you have? Some information about your car would be helpful.
Also, is the motor out of the car? If not, you'll be hard pressed to do this at all the correct way.
Yes the motor is out of the car. I have a set of GSC 280s, 1mm over valves(intake and exhaust), Dual Valve springs, Wiesco/Eagle combo, lightened crank, lightened flywheel, Sleeper 16g, Evo 7 front mount, Aluminum intake w/ 90mm TB, COP, DSM Link, 3inch turbo back.
prove_it
Well-known member
With 1mm OS valves and a 280 cam, you need to be careful with how far you go. Especially with a cut head or block. Your already pushing valve clearance as is.
bowler31185
Active member
Thank you prove it. Will keep an eye on that.
