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light weight flywheel

tektic

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Dec 19, 2012
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ronkonkoma, ny
What after market flywheel is worth running. I don't like the aluminum. What else is out there?
 

pot

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Oct 28, 2003
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Fayetteville, NC
RRE no name flywheel. Same manufacturing facility as ACT XACT. It measured in at 11.4 lbs versus the factory 17.6 lbs using a generic digital bathroom scale.

No Name Flywheel

Your other option is (which I have never used):

- Jun
- Centerforce
- Exedy
- Competition Clutch
- Clutch Masters
- Fidanza *Not a fan of the replaceable friction material at $80.00 a pop
 

tektic

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Dec 19, 2012
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ronkonkoma, ny
So the No name RRE Flywheel is IT then.

The XTD flywheel is out of the question right? I heard the pins don't come out so it can't be cut. Is that true? I'm sure this no name RRE one comes from china too.

The Act seems to work and be the preferred lightened replacement to use with my SB clutch. If it is indeed the same as the RRE I guess I'll be giving them a call.
 
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turbohf

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Nov 18, 2011
Messages
540
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Lake Stevens, WA
someone gave me a XTD for free, so i used it on my CRX. i had it resurfaced. so the pins did come out, but they where also mushroomed a little (not sure that was XTD or from hammering back in). that car only had a maxed out 14b (247hp, 7k rpm), not sure i would trust it more then that. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif


i have a Fidanza in my Galant... i thought that the ACT and Fidanza where standard used flywheels for the 4g63 community?
 

tektic

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Dec 19, 2012
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ronkonkoma, ny
I have the aluminum fiadanza but I have come to find out it is not compatable with my clutch. Or at least not recommend. While its out I'm going to switch it. If I had stock I would use it, but this is all I have, so I'm in the market for a light weight steel.
 

idreamidrive

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Oct 10, 2012
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430
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Murray, KY
If you want to pay for shipping, and wait until next week, I can send you whatever many flywheels will fit in a flatrate USPS box.
 

ApexHunter

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Apr 25, 2007
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Marysville, WA
I had a RRE lightweight no name. It was a nice piece and would totally recommend.

I'm curious about the adversity to aluminum...I would guess it comes down to poor experience or reputation?

AASCO makes some really nice flywheels, and would be my choice if I did it again. The quality is superb and they are made here. They use steel and aluminum, it depends on the application. We have one on our shop car. It is an 8lb aluminum variant and we love it. Their aluminum units are really meant for road racing..I would see if they could do a one off piece or look elsewhere if I was drag racing.
 

presterone

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Jan 23, 2012
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514
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brunswick maine
So light weight flywheel and no balance shafts = super duper torsional whip of crankshafts. Im sure people have ran thousands of miles with no issues with a lightened wheel and no balance shafts but doesn't it seem sketchy on paper?
 

tektic

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ronkonkoma, ny
My surface was put on unevenly on my aluminum flywheel. The bolts stripped out holding the pressure plate on and I didn't like how light it was. It reved up real nice but wasn't fun to park. I had disingaugemen issues and a smaller slave cylinder so that didn't help. I also think it contributes to drive train noise. I feel I would prefer something heavier than the aluminum piece although It could be fixed it's much easer to replace.

What I read however is that because the aluminum and steel expands at different rates its prone to warp. Or something like that. I can try to find it but they were talking about the same sout bend clutch and material I'm using and was a comment from a reputable DSM shop. So there's that too.
 
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G

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Feb 24, 2004
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zompton
Jun solid one piece unit or go home.
 

cheekychimp

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East Sussex, U.K.
I'm pretty sure that there is another OEM flywheel that fits the VR4 and falls halfway between the aluminium units and the stock VR4 wheel in terms of weight. I'll try and dig up the info.
 

AllanL

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Aug 4, 2008
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NV
this is for the Evo1~3, off a Japanese Yahoo auction site [just Google Translate it]...

can't we source something similar here?

click
 

ktmrider

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Sep 10, 2007
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Tempe, AZ
^^ Count the bolt holes on that FW, unless the OP has a newer engine...

Also most folks running lightened flywheel's on DD vehicles dislike them, especially those that have lots of stop/go action. Goes for nearly all brands of vehicles, not just ours.
 
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prove_it

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Jul 3, 2008
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Sioux Falls, SD
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif My ACT flywheel feels fine and has had no issues. I dd'd it for years and about 30k miles.

I do know that a super light wheel will reduce spool up due to having less load on the engine to assist in spool, but I don't think it's that drastic.
 
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ApexHunter

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Apr 25, 2007
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Marysville, WA
Quoting ktmrider:
Also most folks running lightened flywheel's on DD vehicles dislike them, especially those that have lots of stop/go action. Goes for nearly all brands of vehicles, not just ours.



This does seem to be the general consensus, but it has not been my experience. After going from an 18lb FW to a 8 lb FW, we found a very minimal loss of driveability. With the lighter unit's inability to store as much energy, the revs drop more quickly between shifts and standing starts require more finesse. No surprise. What was surprising was how minimal it was. It is easy to modulate and once you get used to it, and would be imperceptible in terms of driveability.

The clutch can be thanked for a lot of that. My hunch is that many of the guys who didn't have a good experience switched to a light FW and as well as a new clutch, the latter being the majority of the driveability problem. Now I would hate driving it with a puck style clutch, or any disc that doesn't really like to slip. But those are unsuitable for a street car and a pain to drive regardless.
 

cheekychimp

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I'd hazard a bet that terrain also has something to do with it. I hated the lightened flywheel in hilly terrain. It's arguable that the difference is minimal on the flat but try a few hill starts and even driving uphill in traffic when you can't build a lot of revs and driveability goes right down.
 

EHmotorsports

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Sep 25, 2012
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Beaverton
Quoting ApexHunter:
Quoting ktmrider:
Also most folks running lightened flywheel's on DD vehicles dislike them, especially those that have lots of stop/go action. Goes for nearly all brands of vehicles, not just ours.



This does seem to be the general consensus, but it has not been my experience. After going from an 18lb FW to a 8 lb FW, we found a very minimal loss of driveability. With the lighter unit's inability to store as much energy, the revs drop more quickly between shifts and standing starts require more finesse. No surprise. What was surprising was how minimal it was. It is easy to modulate and once you get used to it, and would be imperceptible in terms of driveability.

The clutch can be thanked for a lot of that. My hunch is that many of the guys who didn't have a good experience switched to a light FW and as well as a new clutch, the latter being the majority of the driveability problem. Now I would hate driving it with a puck style clutch, or any disc that doesn't really like to slip. But those are unsuitable for a street car and a pain to drive regardless.




I can second the clutch being the main issue when it comes to drivability. reason being my AE86 had a 20v swap using the factory 12lb flywheel but stock clutch. i then switched to a 9lb flywheel with a new stock clutch no difference. but later on I switched to a 6 puck clutch setup and it made the car a pain to drive when not on track.
 

slugsgomoo

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Oct 16, 2003
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3,776
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Tacoma, WA
Quoting presterone:
So light weight flywheel and no balance shafts = super duper torsional whip of crankshafts. Im sure people have ran thousands of miles with no issues with a lightened wheel and no balance shafts but doesn't it seem sketchy on paper?



I see you've read Jack's poor conclusions about crank vibrations... Here's my response to a similar post on the friendfaces...

Quote:

it's the one place that I will categorically say that Jack's is wrong, and I think they're great otherwise.

Fact: Mitsubishi built dozens of 4gxx motors that came from the factory without balance shafts. If the motor can't live without them, wouldn't Mitsubishi's engineers be able to figure that out? Let's assume that some of them have a Masters in Mechanical Engineering (or better) and have an idea how torsional & harmonic damping work

Fact: The documentation from Mitsubishi says that the shafts are there to increase occupant comfort by reducing felt vibration from ~3-5k RPM. Felt vibration means your ass is happy, it has nothing to do with the mechanicals.

Fact: Even if replaced regularly, the balance shaft belt is very small, and spins a very heavy weight.

Fact: If you start pushing past factory 7,500rpm limit with balance shafts, you're retarded

Fact: for every revolution the crankshaft makes, the balance shaft makes two. This means that at the pedestrian limiter of 7,500, your balance shaft is spinning 15,000 RPM. If you push out to 8500, it goes to 17,000. I'm spinning to 9,500 RPM, or 19,000 RPM on a balance shaft, on a belt about the size of a power steering belt. This teeny belt has the ability to catastrophically self destruct, taking out very expensive engine parts.

I didn't have clutch drag with an ACT2600 in 2005 with a stock motor, or with a built 9:1 motor with no balance shafts (Same clutch, same shitty transmission). I don't have clutch drag now with a twin disk, aluminum rod motor, and no balance shafts.

I'm not a Buschur fan, but LOL @ click

Also has some decent insight here click posts 6 & 7 seem relevant, but the whole thread, and jack's replies are worth reading.

I should add as a further case in point, the 4G61 does not have balance shafts from the factory. In fact, the proper parts to use for a BS delete come from Mitsubishi's parts catalog as OEM parts for the 4G61...

Realistically, this was ancient news when I got into DSM's in 2002...

vfaq - balance shafts





All that said, I would not run a non-SFI rated flywheel on anything I was beating on, especially at a higher rev limit. I ran a Fidanza in my 1g vs the ACT because supposedly the steel insert is less "slippery" than the chromoly ACT uses. The nice thing for me about the fidanza is that the replacement surface is $60, compared to a new ACT, or even resurfacing that's not a terrible deal. I've got ~35k on the one in my 1g, I did replace the surface when I put a new clutch in (even though it wasn't necessary, cheap insurance to me).

I think that keeping some weight is a plus, the ACT is a bit heavier than the Fidanza and may be a bit more fun to drive on the street. That said, I don't have any problem with the fidanza (clutch is CM FX-400 sprung six puck) and it's light years easier than the twin (though that motor also has steel rods...).
 
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diambo4life

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Joined
Jul 7, 2013
Messages
315
Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
#476 had an aluminum Spec FW when I bought it. Worked fine but I was used to the heavier ACT flywheel I had in my old car so I got one. Another good option is the Competition FW. I don't believe it's aluminum. It's a tad heavier than the ACT FW but lighter than stock. Pricing is good.
 
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