down pipe hits front subframe?

[tektic]

Ok so I just installed 344/195 engine brackets and now my eBay down pipe is hitting the front sub frame by the control arm . I searched for down pipe fitment and found some people hitting their transfer case, but not the sub frame. I have a 95 o2 stock body turbo and 95 manifold.
I was under the impression that these downpipes fit well.


Will an e3 o2 housing put me closer to the transfer case?

 

[CutlassJim]

The E3 O2 has more of an angle so yes it will put the DP more towards the transfer case.

 

[tektic]

I just found this post on tooners that says some of the early ebay down pipes were mocked up with evo 3 housings by mistake.

I'm going to try to swap in the e3 o2. It's not going to be fun, especially if it doesn't work. I'm going to have to add another bung for my wbo2 if it does.

Is there any way to check that my motor is in fact in the right place before I go through all of this?

 

[tektic]

Well it was worth a shot...

But Epic Fail!

Now it hits the transfer case and as predicted my o2 bung is rendered useless because the sensor would contact the oil pan. Over all it is in a more manageable position with the evo 3 housing.

I think its time to get out the bfh. It sucks that its the end ring of the flex section that's making contact. I'm like 60% sure I'm going to destroy it. Maybe then I can get one that fits. Or just waste more money. Who knows.






Edit: I just thought of something. If I backed the studs out of the e3 housing could I have the angle milled down a little?

 

[FlyingEagle]

Cut and weld the downpipe just as it straightens out while meeting the oil pan.

A simple angle added with the cut, and a few mm's of missing material, won't mean the whole system won't butt back up properly.

Cut/Weld/Install.

Done.

Now, you do have to find someone to do a little stainless TIG for you ..... and likely

under the car, unless you can hold the angle perfectly, drop the pipe and drive the pieces

over to the welder. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif

 

[ktmrider]

^^ Or get the proper DP in the first place.

Which eGay DP did you buy? 1g flange mount at the cat is "clocked" differently than the 2g. To clarify the 2g DP flange has the same clocking as the GVR4.

 

[tektic]

thanks. I didn't know that. I guess I will order a 2g down pipe. How will that work with a e3 o2 housing?

Is there one specific one that works well with that set up? Now that I installed the e3 housing I'd like to keep it.

 

[89Patches]

Quoting ktmrider:
^^ Or get the proper DP in the first place.

Which eGay DP did you buy? 1g flange mount at the cat is "clocked" differently than the 2g. To clarify the 2g DP flange has the same clocking as the GVR4.



Or ten minutes with a welder and problem solved /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

 

[tektic]

I dont have a tig welder /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[ktmrider]

Quoting 89Patches:
Quoting ktmrider:
^^ Or get the proper DP in the first place.

Which eGay DP did you buy? 1g flange mount at the cat is "clocked" differently than the 2g. To clarify the 2g DP flange has the same clocking as the GVR4.



Or ten minutes with a welder and problem solved /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

Note his reply. And what would you charge for said cutting/welding the pipe? And being a high vibration area how much to re-weld down the road? I'll almost guarantee it'll come out to the same or even more than a properly manufactured DP if you don't have the equipment and more notably skills. But oh yeah as noted by your nick-phrase you'll build your own and biotch about how much a vendor charges for their time and development. Meanwhile the cut-and-paste method keeps another car on JSB status.

OP there is an easy-button answer to all of this: CMPE. They even have a GVR4 DP specifically made for an E3 O2 housing. Or search the forum for DP's that "fit" your preferred O2 ( flange angle is different ).

Link for Certified Muffer: click

 

[FlyingEagle]

Good to know about CMPE having two exhaust options.

Thank you ktmrider!

 

[89Patches]

Quoting ktmrider:
Note his reply. And what would you charge for said cutting/welding the pipe? And being a high vibration area how much to re-weld down the road? I'll almost guarantee it'll come out to the same or even more than a properly manufactured DP if you don't have the equipment and more notably skills.



If he himself cut the down pipe and mocked it up for someone with a tig welder to weld it together for him, probably wouldn't even cost him $20. And most if not all aftermarket down pipes are welded at the flange (Bolt on) and what happens if you have a custom setup? OMG it's all welded together!! I have yet to see one crack and get re welded. Given yes maybe if who ever welded it can't weld for sh*t.


Quoting ktmrider:
But oh yeah as noted by your nick-phrase you'll build your own and biotch about how much a vendor charges for their time and development. Meanwhile the cut-and-paste method keeps another car on JSB status.




I have not a clue what you're referring to here??

 

[tektic]

I don't see the evo 3 o2 housing dp for the vr4 you speak of. which is fine because I'm not looking for $300 solutions. It's been JSB for two days now and I'm ok with that. The tig welding is not something I'm set up to do. I talked with some local guys today an am just going to try to find a local fabricator who can put it back together. I have some suggestions. It can be fixed by literally a 5mm pie cut inserted into the first part of the down pipe.

Thank you for quoting that previous post about the 2g vs 1g clocking. I miss read it before. It says the cat end is clocked differently. Nothing to do with the angle of the o2 housing. Now this leads me to believe that something else is wrong with my engine mounts and or positioning of my engine. I have to start measuring stuff.

 

[ktmrider]

You tell CMPE what O2 housing and they fabricate it. Keep in mind the cat-end flange too, bet you spend way more than what CMPE wants but hey it's your time and money.

On the DP cat flange clocking if you have a "normal" GVR4 CB exhaust and using a 1g DP you're twisting the hell outta the flex joint. There are a ton of threads on the position and yes it will shift the DP relative to the frame ( flange center is not coincidental to the pipe centerline ).

 

[tektic]

I made the cat back. It fit perfect before I moved the engine. no twisting. none.

You seem very pessimistic.

 

[tektic]

I sliced the pipe 90 percent of the way around. Spred the gap 12mm at the widest point and then droped it off to get welded. It cost $75 to have it done. But it fits well now.

 

[FlyingEagle]

Win. Thumbs up.

 

[tektic]

Does my drive shaft look straight enough?