Transmission Install advice

[NYC86ZC]

I'm getting extremely frustrated with trying to install the trans(been working on it for about 5 hours now).

I had to drop the trans because the clutch fork pivot ball snapped off. I figured I'd swap in another trans I had laying around. The trans has the same ID number so it's the same trans model as I pulled out; 91-94 AWD TEL. I had no issues pulling out the old transmission, but getting the new one has proved to be difficult. I've installed transmissions a few times in my gvr4 and I've never had this many issues(maybe I'm getting old).

I can get the trans spline on the engine, but I have to clock the trans clockwise to do so. So, the trans does mate up. But I can't clock the trans counter clockwise when it's mated up because the diff housing hits the rear cross member. When I try to slide on the trans so the dowel pins are lined up pretty good the trans diff housing hits the cross member.

Does anyone have any installation tips besides the PolishSpec install vid?

 

[coyotes]

Try to lower the engine a bit.

I helped a local guy install one on his gsx, I just got under, put it on my chest and stuck it in first try. Yeah baby. Stabbed ut hard, stabbed it good

 

[NYC86ZC]

Removing the engine mounts was the next step in this debacle. Then I can move it around a bit more.

Was it a GGSX or an eclipse GSX? TEL's are cake compared to a gvr4 because of the rear cross member difference.

 

[turbowop]

Did you remove the gusset plate?

 

[NYC86ZC]

Yes sir. My friend was also asking about the "triangle brace" and I had no idea what he was talking about as #541 doesn't have it.

 

[belize1334]

Install that triangle plate ASAP. Without it you will ultimately suffer a massive structure failure - I've seen pictures of the carnage and you don't want it.

You mention the diff housing - are you referring to the transfer case? Silly question but are you trying to install the transmission with the t-case attached?

 

[gvr4144]

Im in the same boat... and from what my buddy really experienced with dsm's you cant really lower the motor on a 6 bolt.

 

[NYC86ZC]

I didn't even know I was missing the plate until yesterday.

HA. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif Not the transfer case. I'm talking about the big bulge on the backside of the trans that fits in the cutout in the rear crossmember.

Now I'm getting scared that the rear crossmember somehow moved around since that plate isn't there and that's why the trans won't fit. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[gvr4144]

Said*

 

[coyotes]

Quoting gvr4144:
Im in the same boat... and from what my buddy really experienced with dsm's you cant really lower the motor on a 6 bolt.



You can lower the passenger side since it shares the mount with the transmission.

 

[NYC86ZC]

Yup never had this guy on the car:

click

 

[belize1334]

The easiest way it finagle it up in there is with a cherry picker so that you can slowly raise it and guide it through. Otherwise if you've got a roof beam you can use some nylon webbing. Either way, lifting from above is a lot easier than lifting with a jack or, worst of all, trying to bench press it up in there. I've done it all 3 ways. Top lift is definitely the easiest.

It's unlikely that the subframe has shifted. The failure that is reported is a crack in the chassis, which you should inspect just in case, but ultimately the cross member isn't really gonna move. Especially if you were able to take it out - it should go back in.

 

[prove_it]

It's just a huge PITA without a hoist. Get used to it though, I'm sure if you keep the car longer than a year it's coming out again. No offense, just the way it is.

 

[NYC86ZC]

I had to take a break from it tonight and have some beers. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

I'm using the jack from below method, but it's basically holding it up so I can grab it and try to put it on from above.

I have a hoist and just swapped in the engine and hoist a month ago. I've been at this for a total of 6 hours so far. At this point it definitely would've been quicker to pull the engine and mate them up and drop them back in.

Hopefully tomorrow I'll have a little more drive to work on it again.

 

[coyotes]

fly me out, I'll stick it in for ya. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[transparentdsm]

Quoting NYC86ZC:
I had to take a break from it tonight and have some beers. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

I'm using the jack from below method, but it's basically holding it up so I can grab it and try to put it on from above.

I have a hoist and just swapped in the engine and hoist a month ago. I've been at this for a total of 6 hours so far. At this point it definitely would've been quicker to pull the engine and mate them up and drop them back in.

Hopefully tomorrow I'll have a little more drive to work on it again.




ive done this a lot. you just have to man handle the trans in there and make it work. ive def hurt my back once or twice doing it. im also lazy and do it a lot with the driver side axle still installed in the car. ive had a lot of trans issues(me being cheap and buying used ones till i can afford the real deal) and have pulled 3 transmissions this year alone in the VR4.

 

[GSTwithPSI]

Quoting NYC86ZC:
I've been at this for a total of 6 hours so far. At this point it definitely would've been quicker to pull the engine and mate them up and drop them back in.



I remember having a hell of a time getting the trans back into 1813. ^I was thinking the same thing after dicking with the trans for a few hours. I never did figure out the trick. Ended up just muscling that bitch in there.

 

[belize1334]

Quoting transparentdsm:
have pulled 3 transmissions this year alone in the VR4.


I had a year like that once. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

 

[MellowVR4]

I think we all have /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

 

[GreenGSX]

Remove the front and rear engine mount pins and let the engine sit down on the cross members. If the drivers side engine mount is factory old leave it in place. Otherwise, guys with urethane or window welded drivers engine mounts will want to remove it as well. Next, pry the engine towards the radiator. All you need is a little extra room to clear the front sub-frame. Then turn the trans mission so te the diff is slightly upwards and jack it up, from underneath, into place just above where it would normally sit on the engine. Then raise the engine up to meet the transmission. From the top passenger side lean over and "pick-and-turn" the transmission onto the dowels. Secure those with bolts then lower the whole assembly back into the motor mounts.

That's what's always worked for me. It requires draining the radiator and a few extra steps with the motor mounts but it does work. Lately, as I've gotten older I've been just pulling and installing the motor/transmission together. There are more steps to pulling the engine with the transmission but in the end its much easier on my back. Also, if you don't have the gas struts on the hood you'll have to pull that as well.

Tim