I need some quick opinions...Shootout, or no Shootout?

[GSTwithPSI]

So, I just rolled 500 miles on the new motor and the car seems to be running great. I'm on the fence on whether to make the 500 mile trip to Ohio though. I have about a week of drive time on the car, and haven't driven it more than about 60 miles in a single trip.

Yesterday, I ran into a little issue with the radiator. The plastic end tank on the top started leaking, and the car would get hot. I think the tank was seeping the entire time I've had the car, I just didn't notice. When I installed the Mishimoto 19 lb radiator cap, it really started leaking and made the issue even worse. I replaced the radiator today, and the car seems to be running great. The temps look good. I'm at around 210 give or take at cruise. Sometimes at idle, it bumps up around 226 before both fans kick on and drop it back to around 218. Seems ok to me, but maybe a little on the warm side? I just don't think I'm getting a lot of airflow at idle. I have the front mount, oil cooler, and A/C condenser all sitting in front of the radiator. I think the fans are really working to get cool air in at a stop. So, my first question is, how do my temps look to you guys?

Second, I noticed a squeaking noise today. It sounds like a really high pitched squeak, like what you would hear from a squeaky alternator pulley or something. It pulses, and changes frequency as the engine revs higher or lower. It's pretty faint sounding, and you really have to listen for it. It's NOT a grinding sound or anything that sounds horrible. I've traced it down to inside the bellhousing of the transmission. I'm thinking it might be coming from the throwout bearing. If I touch the clutch pedal the least little bit, it goes away. I don't even have to push the pedal all the way in. Literally, if I touch the clutch pedal with my toe, the sound goes away completely. I'm worried about this because I don't know what it is. Can you guys chime in, and tell me if it's something I should worry about with a 1000 mile round trip drive looming ahead of me tomorrow?

I really, really, want to get to the Shootout this year. But, I really don't want to get stranded 7 hours away from my house. I don't really have the funds or time to bail myself out of a situation like that right now. Honestly, I don't even have a clue what I would do if my car broke on the trip there or back. I doubt anyone would be willing to tow that far. What do you guys think? f*** it and go? Or, play it safe and feel the car out some more?

I need some opinions quickly, because I'll need to leave early tomorrow morning if I'm going to make the trip. Thanks in advance..

 

[turbowop]

My old Toyota pickup had a squeaky throwout bearing like that. Would go away with the faintest touch of the clutch pedal. Lasted like that for what seemed like forever. No big deal, IMO.

Your temps though, seem a tad hot. I'm in the low 190's when cruising, but I have a 180 tstat. And I'm at around 203 stopped. I have my CE light set to come on at like 224. Do you have a factory or aftermarket tstat? I find that the OE ones work better. They have a larger opening. If I were you, I'd install a 180 tstat real quick and wire up the fan relay to come on sooner via ECMlink. Shouldn't take you more than like an hour.

I would say f*** it and go after doing that, but that's just me.

 

[coyotes]

Open up those hood vents and runnit. Although personally I wouldn't go, would not want to be stranded far from home. Take your other G ride. Shake down the VR4 more before you feel safe driving it that far. Or throw up tow coverage on your insurance before your trip. Mine costs me 20 dollars per policy period.

I drive with all my tools in my car when I take it around. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif Better to be safe than sorry.

I do have that same squeak from time to time. I have been super paranoid with all the noises my car has, seems every time I drive it there is a new one. I get that weird squeak squeak squeak noise, not sure it is a pulley but it does seem to happen when the car is in neutral. Most of my s13s made the same noise from the throw out bearing and they lasted for years doing it.

 

[LIV4PSI]

Get your ass here Brett /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif

 

[GSTwithPSI]

I'm currently running a new OEM T-stat from ExtremePSI; MD997608. Seems to be a 190* unit though. I wouldn't be able to source a 180* OEM T-stat before tomorrow morning. FML. I think the FP manifold is definitely heat soaking the sh*t out of everything in the entire engine bay. I'll pop the hood at idle and it feels like sticking your face in an open oven. I'm seriously considering ditching that f***ing thing.

Thanks for the info on the TOB. I really appreciate the response, Mark.

Thomas, as for the tow coverage, I have that already. Problem is, all insurance policies I've ever seen cover like 50 miles max. Anything over and you pay for mileage out of pocket. Not to mention, I don't think there's a tow truck driver alive willing to make a 14 hour round trip. So, if my turd breaks, and one of you clowns gonna drag my junk home or what?

And, I actually JUST pulled the hood vent covers off when I got back from my last drive to see if that makes a difference. I'll report back with my findings.

 

[prove_it]

The manifold doesn't help, but not that much. Mine was getting to the temps your having in stop and go traffic, even with the 180 stat. When I was getting high temps too, fixed it by running a KOYO all aluminum race evo 3 radiator and having the engine fan on all the time.

I say f it. Go man, don't live with a regret. Unplug you the temp sensor in the radiator, jump it so the fan is running at lower temps, put a bottle of water wetter in it and go.

Fix it all when you get back to home. Come on, get the mitsu attitude back, quit acting like a honda fanboy.

 

[GSTwithPSI]

Lol Ryan. Thanks for the feedback. When you say high temps, what kind of numbers are you talking?

And water wetter eh? You're like the 3rd person that's mentioned that to me. I never tried the stuff, always writing it off as a gimmick. That stuff really work?

 

[prove_it]

Oh yea, don't have proof, but it does help, won't drop the temps down 20*, but I'd say up to 10*. Biggest difference I've noticed is that as soon as I started moving, the temps dropped real fast.

Also I've noticed if I raise idle to 1000 during the 220 and up temps, the higher speed of the water pump really helped drop the temps too.

I'd look into the KOYO Evo 3 radiator. It dropped me down to around 190-200 at almost all times (no more hot engine check light!). Yea the fan runs all the time, but I'll address that later. It's just a 14" hayden fan anyway. The EVO fits perfect and I had mine installed in 30 minutes.


Oh and water wetter is only like 10 bucks, so what do you have to lose?

 

[turbowop]

I run water wetter, but I'm not sure if it actually made any difference. I didn't really notice any significant temp drop.

Jumping the wires at the fan plug is a good idea for a quick temporary fix to get the fans to run constantly. And you should be able to find a Stant 180 tstat at any local parts store if you wanted to go that route. They stock them around here, but I don't know the part number.

 

[GSTwithPSI]

Thanks again for the replies, guys. I think I'm going to go grab some water wetter and throw it in. I'm filled up with 60/40 water/anitfreeze mix currently. You guys are running a single bottle of this stuff on top of your normal mix or what?

I'll throw in the water wetter and drive the car around some more. I'll get a few good logs of coolant temps and make a determination tonight whether or not I'm going to make the trip. I'm just scared to death about getting stranded somewhere. I have to be back to work on Monday morning no matter what happens. The thought of having to leave the Galant at some random shop or gas station until I can work out the logistics to tow it home is terrifying to me.

If I had more than a week behind the wheel to feel the car out it wouldn't be so bad.

 

[prove_it]

Ah, there's the mitsu attitude. Most of us all think the same thing buddy. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

I run about a 1/4 bottle of wetter. A whole bottle might be better, might not.

 

[GSTwithPSI]

Quoting turbowop:
I run water wetter, but I'm not sure if it actually made any difference. I didn't really notice any significant temp drop.

Jumping the wires at the fan plug is a good idea for a quick temporary fix to get the fans to run constantly. And you should be able to find a Stant 180 tstat at any local parts store if you wanted to go that route. They stock them around here, but I don't know the part number.



Mark, I found a Stant Superstat. Looks to be built a bit heavier than the lower grade model. Watcha think?

Stant Superstat: click

Regular Stant: click

I was talking to the parts guy at my local Mitsu dealer the other day. He actually recommended that I get a Stant radiator cap over an OEM one. His reasoning was that Stant makes many of the OEM caps to begin with, and the quality difference was negligible if any. So, I replaced my Mishimoto cap with a stock Stant cap like he recommended, and it seems to be working great.


Quoting prove_it:

I'd look into the KOYO Evo 3 radiator. It dropped me down to around 190-200 at almost all times (no more hot engine check light!). Yea the fan runs all the time, but I'll address that later. It's just a 14" hayden fan anyway. The EVO fits perfect and I had mine installed in 30 minutes.






Ryan, where would I find this radiator you speak of, and how much will it cost me?

 

[citymunky]

Quoting turbowop:
I run water wetter, but I'm not sure if it actually made any difference. I didn't really notice any significant temp drop.





It works: click

 

[calcaliente]

Just go! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif

 

[turbowop]

Throw that 180 Stant superstat in. I still think the OEM 180 is better, but you can swap them out later.

 

[467]

From my experience you can go a long time with a noisy TOB. It will let you know when it's really on it's last legs.

The important parameter on the thermostat is the diameter of the opening when the valve opens. You want as close to or larger diameter than OEM. This has been discussed before with many testimonials that it makes a difference.

I thought you had to weld on a lower temp sensor bung to use the Koyo EVO 3 radiator?

 

[turbowop]

You can delete the lower sensor/switch altogether if you have ECMlink.

 

[coyotes]

Quoting GSTwithPSI:
So, if my turd breaks, and one of you clowns gonna drag my junk home or what?



If you're within a hundred miles of me I'll come get you. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

and just pick up one of those blankets for the FP manifold, didn't you already make a thread about it? Do that or the fancy heat sheild they have, transparentdsm has given good reviews of the blanket though and so have others. it looks like your grandma's underwear, but it works. I don't think it has much to do with your water temp though. It's probably your slimline fans being less efficient than the factory setup. Maybe rig up some ducting out of foam or cardboard that forces the air into your radiator.

Are you getting your high temps at cruise on the highway or is this mixed driving in traffic?

If you break down there's gotta be someone nearby to help you out.

 

[467]

Quoting coyotes :
Maybe rig up some ducting out of foam or cardboard that forces the air into your radiator.



I remember a thread where some ducting was made to reduce air going through the front grill and then under the intercooler and car. I can't find the thread but snagged some photos of the ductwork. Maybe it will stimulate some ideas.

 

[GSTwithPSI]

I picked up the Stant superstat and threw it in the car. My temps seem to have dropped drastically. I had a 190* OEM unit installed. The problem is, by the time I got it in the car, it was getting dark and the outside temp had dropped about 10-12 degrees. So, I can't tell how much of the temperature drop can be attributed to the new T-stat, and how much is due to the cooler outside air. I also threw in a bottle of water wetter. I won't really be able to tell how the car is really performing until tomorrow when it warms up a bit.

I've weighed all my options, and as much as I hate to do it, I'm deciding to call off going to the shootout this year. I'm just not confident enough in the car yet. With only a week of actual drive time, I feel like I need more time to get the rest of the bugs worked out. The squeaking from the TOB or whatever the hell is making noise is also driving me insane. I'm just not in a position to take any chances right now. If I had a week of leave to burn, maybe. But I have to be at work Monday morning or it's my ass.

Thanks to everyone who tried to help me out in this thread, and make this trip happen. Your suggestions are/were greatly appreciated.