Oil pan gasket

[manikbastrd]

Hey guys, I am in the process of searching for data on this topic, but I am replacing my Oil Pan Gasket this weekend, and Iw anted to know if you guys have had good results with using grey RTV as well as the gasket, or if you strip and clean it and just use the stock gasket.

Thanks in advance
-Manik

 

[92_talon_awd]

I like RTV on my oil pans. Never had a problem with it. If I'm using RTV with a gasket I use a very light coating on both sides of the gasket, if not I use a bead on the pan.

 

[EHmotorsports]

factory was rtv. use rtv only.

click

 

[turbowop]

Quoting manikbastrd:
strip and clean it and just use the stock gasket.





The stock "gasket" is RTV.

 

[prove_it]

Do not use a paper gasket. Any high temp silicone rtv will work. I use hondabond(it's free)

 

[manikbastrd]

RTV only, Got it!

As far as the Transfer case removal I have done those a bunch of times, so I understand that, however I am confused on the Half shaft/drivers side axle removal...Whenever I have pulled a Tcase, it was because I was pulling the tranny so I already had both spindles dropped and the axles out...There are two 14mm bolt that hold the half shaft to the drivers side axle? I should remove those two bolts and split the axle and half shaft??? I have never done an oil pan on a 4g63 while it was in the car, just on a motor that was not installed.

 

[prove_it]

Yep, take your drivers side axle out, then the two bolts for the half shaft and pull it out, and that will give you the room and ability to do the pan.

It's time consuming, at least an hour or two and a few beers. Make sure you put the short pan bolts in the timing belt side, or your tbelt will get ruined.

 

[turbowop]

I don't remember needing to remove the axle. I think I just loosened the bracket that holds it to the block and it gave me just enough room to get the pan in there without issue.

 

[prove_it]

That's how I did it, but I always recommend the service manual ways, just so I don't get someone in trouble at home.

 

[manikbastrd]

Quoting turbowop:
I don't remember needing to remove the axle. I think I just loosened the bracket that holds it to the block and it gave me just enough room to get the pan in there without issue.



Ok, I am borrowing a shop for the day to do this, so I will have a lift and stuff to be able to do it. I don't want to pull the axle if I don't have to. The axle nuts are annoying sometimes and I don't know when it was pulled last so it could be a not so fun procedure.

Thanks for all the replies guys!
-Manik

 

[diambo4life]

Like turbowop said, you just need to loosen the carrier bearing bracket so your socket extension can take off the oil pan bolts in that area. Careful popping the pan off. There are specific spots to tap it to pop just don't force it and bend the sealing flange in the process because you will be using RTV to seal it....and it will leak.


I use Permatex Grey and I let it cure for 24 hours.

 

[G]

Make sure you install the short bolts in the correct location or you will shred your timing belt.

 

[Wookalar]

I would strongly advise against any paper gasket because eventually they absorb and weep oil. Rtv only.

Test the theory.

Dip a corner of a piece of paper in oil, you will see the paper absorb the oil.

Squeeze out some rtv and let it dry. When its dry dip it in oil and then wipe it clean. Slice it open, its clean on the inside because the oil could not pentrate it. Thats the seal you want.

Obviously make sure the mating surfaces are clean of any oil before laying down the bead.

 

[turbowop]

I dunno if that test is completely accurate. There are still a lot of seals on the car made from paper that hold up just fine for thousands of miles and many years. The front case for one. Still, just use RTV on the pan. RTFM

 

[Wookalar]

The paper in oil test is not accurate in terms of length of time but over a long enough period paper gaskets need replacing. Some gaskets are better than others in terms of resisting oil, some not so good at resisting oil.

I know there are some cheap gaskets out there that do not hold in oil very well because Ive had to change two out on my car. Maybe it was the material I was using, I had to cut it to fit the moroso pan. Two years later showing signs of heavy breathing. Changed to using rtv only and havent seen leaks since.

 

[gvr4ever]

Front case? The casing that the rear balance shaft (oil pump) is attached too? If so, it was thin, but pretty sure it wasn't paper. It took hours of careful razor blade trimming to clean that bitch off.

I also had to repair a oil pan leak. I know I'm the 2nd owner of my car at low mileage and I'm the first to take the oil pan off. It never had a gasket. I just used RTV.

 

[turbowop]

It's a paper'ish type of material, similar to something like the thermostat housing gasket. It's certainly not RTV or rubbery.

 

[gvr4ever]

Might be a layered treated paper material. Not sure, but it felt more like thick construction paper, only more pliable and tougher. I just read "paper" wrong.

 

[89Mirageman]

I'd also clean the old silicone gasket material out of the flange of the pan. That may seem obvious but I don't think anyone mentioned it. I usually mask off the inside of the pan and use a small wire brush on my little air grinder. It'll get into those crevices and clean it right up. I mask the pan so that all those small pieces don't fall in and get lost.

Another tip is to put a bead on the flange and let it sit for a few minutes. Then put it in place and start the bolts but do not tighten them up. This way the silicone doesn't just push out. Once its semi cured (several hours) lightly tighten or better yet torque them to spec. I'm sure there are other ways that work, this has always worked for me though.

 

[prove_it]

I have a feeling Mark and I are feeling the same way....

Just use some RTV damnit. Paper test? really?

The oem "paper" gaskets are embedded with a wax like chemical that won't allow fluids to transfer through. It's a surface treatment, where inside it's just good ol paper.That's why there is al little sheen and waxy feel to the gasket. It's a PITA to clean, because of heat cycling and that chemical likes to stick good. That's how it doesn't leak. The paper is there to allow the surface of the gasket to conform to small irregularities in the surfaces of the sealing surfaces.

Aftermarket gaskets are cheap, since they don't contain a sufficient amount of the barrier chemical. That's how they are made cheap. Oil pans are a gasket soak area and very few manufactures even bother with a gasket, since it's constantly soaking in oil every time the engine is off. Paper will work other places as it's not under hours and hours of exposure.

there, gasket technology 101.