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Does this O2 sensor output look wonky

EfiniX

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Joined
Oct 18, 2012
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647
Location
portland, or
I was troubleshooting a temp issue (resolved as a loose wire) and while checking my v3 logs, I noticed my narrowband output looked a little weird. Before installing my Innovate WB, I had an Autometer NB and am quite familiar with the useless, bouncing needle. Now what I'm seeing in v3 is some oscillation, but also periods when it "sticks" at 0.2v and 0.8v. It never goes below/above those values, and it seems rather consistent in its behavior (cold/hot/whatever).

I've got a new motor and transmission, and my mechanic (EHMotorsports) took great care to make sure it all went back together with no leaks and such. That, and it's running great (although it won't reach its full potential until I can get it on the AWD dyno up at English Racing later this month).

So yeah, not trying to track down a problem per se', but an opinion would be great.

Thanks!

(since I don't know how to upload a log here, I'll just give you a screenshot)
 

EfiniX

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Oct 18, 2012
Messages
647
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portland, or
Thanks. I recall it bouncing a it more than that at idle, but I wasn't logging, and narrowband gauges are not much good beyond filling that second gauge pod so it isn't empty once the boost gauge goes in.

C
 

prove_it

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Sioux Falls, SD
If you have a WB, why are you logging the narrowband?
 

EfiniX

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647
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portland, or
why not? If the O2 sensor starts to go tits, I would want to know, right? I'm not logging it for tuning, just for information.
 

prove_it

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Oh, so you still have a narrowband sensor and a WB.
 

EHmotorsports

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Beaverton
Yes he is not simulating narrowband with his WB.
 

GSTwithPSI

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Jan 1, 2012
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SoCal
I really don't understand why people delete the factory narrow band after adding a WB anyways. Unless you are utilizing every input and need to free one up, there's no point. The factory WB is a great way to error check your WB, and gives the system a bit of redundancy if nothing else. It seems like so many people delete the factory O2 just cuz, or because they don't want to deal with adding an extra bung. Seems silly to me.
 

prove_it

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Sioux Falls, SD
I did it because I didn't want to buy a new 02 sensor. I warranty out my WB sensor every year and keep it calibrated. Have had no issues in 4 years and 20k.

It does come down to opinions and different folks, different strokes.

Nice thing when the WB sensor dies, is you will know it for a fact. Lol. It barely runs with the sensor failed.
 

EfiniX

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Oct 18, 2012
Messages
647
Location
portland, or
Quoting EHmotorsports:
Yes he is not simulating narrowband with his WB.



You would know /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

In any case, I need to pull another log now that the coolant issue is squared away. More to come.
 

EHmotorsports

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Quoting GSTwithPSI:
I really don't understand why people delete the factory narrow band after adding a WB anyways. Unless you are utilizing every input and need to free one up, there's no point. The factory WB is a great way to error check your WB, and gives the system a bit of redundancy if nothing else. It seems like so many people delete the factory O2 just cuz, or because they don't want to deal with adding an extra bung. Seems silly to me.



exactly!!!
with my new O2 housing and exhaust I am making. it will have the factory O2 as well as the WB 02.
 

turbowop

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Apr 29, 2001
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Yakima, WA
I keep the stock NB sensor as well. It works well in the factory location.

I didn't like the way NB simulation worked with my WB so far down the downpipe.
 
Last edited:

dsmless

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Joined
Jun 12, 2008
Messages
224
Location
tucson,az
I just use the aem wideband and wire in the narrowband simulation to the ecu, I jus went out and bought an extra wideband sensor at autozone for 60 bucks and just warranty it every 8 months, I have to galants and this works out great
 

EfiniX

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Joined
Oct 18, 2012
Messages
647
Location
portland, or
Well I have not complaints. The issue that got me looking at the log in the first place was a high-idle while coasting. Turns out my temp sender for the ECU had a loose connection. I tracked it down because the log was just showing a flat 175 degrees for temp, even though the gauge on the dash looked normal. Engine thought it was cold, so it ran in closed loop and had a high idle. Fixed the connector and fixed the problem.

The consensus has been that the output looks ok, and I'm not having any issues driving around. I'll just have English look when I take it for it's dyno tune in a few weeks.

C
 
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