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Just installed BC springs and retainers with Head installed

turbophein

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 17, 2009
Messages
683
Location
mass
What a bitch! lol

i used the lisle tool and it was not fun, the last half was easier, but i came close to giving up on the first one!!! I couldn't get it to seat fully, oh boy was it pissing me off /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

i moved on to a different one and got that one on it short time, and just slowly progressed from there. i couldn't get them to seat by pushing with my hand only. has anyone had this issue? i was working that tool better than my girl and i got no love... a little love from the rubber mallet work wonders. Intake side sounded horrible when tapping them in, but there was no other way.

bogussvo needs to do a right up on this because i couldn't find anything good...

i just needed to rant now that i am done with that part... FP2 cam install tomorrow, and then do the timing again. any tips for a good install of the cams? it looks like the cam seals were leaking a little bit down onto the water pump and motor mount??
 

BogusSVO

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Joined
Aug 29, 2013
Messages
232
Location
Pensacola, Florida
Sorry, doubt I will ever install springs with the head in the car.

I am spoiled, /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif I have built hundreds of the 4g head, but it is always off the car and on the work bench.

The BC springs are not the easiest to install when the head is off the car. The have a fairly stout inch rate to them.

Now that you have them on and the walked away for a few hours, go back and inspect each spring, make sure that the spring is seated on the casting flat and not tilted on the spring locators. and make sure the valve locks are fully in place. the locks will be about flush with the top of the retainers.

I think I have posted a cam seal install.
 

turbophein

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Joined
Feb 17, 2009
Messages
683
Location
mass
i did tap on them all after install to make sure the keepers were seated properly.

i will go and check them all visually to make sure they are seated before moving on.

thanks!
 

mitsuturbo

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Joined
Jun 2, 2008
Messages
3,544
Location
Near Seattle, Washington
Wow. You installed new valve springs with the head still attached to the block?!

You're a brave guy. I would never even attempt this. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/worthy.gif
 

turbohf

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Joined
Nov 18, 2011
Messages
540
Location
Lake Stevens, WA
i have done this once in a car (honda b-series vtec) and wasnt too much fun. much preferred to do it on the bench. infact everyone since then has been done off the car. just plan ahead and know your putting springs in the head for cams.

if you build it, they will come... lol. both my current cars got upgraded valve springs with there motor builds, magically right before engine startup time, cams arrived. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

turbophein

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Joined
Feb 17, 2009
Messages
683
Location
mass
Quoting mitsuturbo:
Wow. You installed new valve springs with the head still attached to the block?!

You're a brave guy. I would never even attempt this. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/worthy.gif



How else are you suppose to spin the motor to 9k RPM!!! my galant only wakes up at 5k!

i guess i would do it again if needed.
 

mitsuturbo

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Jun 2, 2008
Messages
3,544
Location
Near Seattle, Washington
How else? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif

I would have pulled the head to do this job, myself.
 

turbophein

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Joined
Feb 17, 2009
Messages
683
Location
mass
my motor has 3-4k miles on it since the rebuild, ripping it apart just wasn't an option for me. i didn't build the motor or i would have had the springs replaced then. I don't have receipts for springs, the guy i bought it from saved everything from the car, but they didn't look any different than what i was putting back in, with the exception of the retainers. He spent money on all top of the line stuff so... my motor also had fp1 cams so maybe it did have springs installed when built. i will post pics later of the springs i pulled out. maybe someone can chime in.
 

turbohf

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Joined
Nov 18, 2011
Messages
540
Location
Lake Stevens, WA
thought that the FP1's and some of the 2's didnt need springs?

i had always kinda planned on a built 2.4 going into my car. but probably would have pulled the head for studs/mls/springs when the time came on the 2.0L. motor lost compression last year. so i put a 2.4 in it with all new parts.

went with the FP cams also, but FP2's.


it really does suck pulling apart a new motor to swap springs like your saying though. probably would have tried with with the head on like you did first. older motor would get the head pulled and refreshed.
 

mitsuturbo

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Joined
Jun 2, 2008
Messages
3,544
Location
Near Seattle, Washington
I still would have pulled it. I took shortcuts and the cheap way out for too many years with these cars before I learned that doing it the hard or more expensive way would have saved me head ache in the long run.

This is exactly why my brakes aren't done yet. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 

marvinmadman

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Joined
Nov 10, 2003
Messages
2,355
Location
Lafayette, Louisiana
I changed valvle stem seals on my RT/TT Stealth in the car without a problem. I even made my own tool that bolted to the head. Worked flawlessly. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 

turbophein

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 17, 2009
Messages
683
Location
mass
Quoting mitsuturbo:
I still would have pulled it. I took shortcuts and the cheap way out for too many years with these cars before I learned that doing it the hard or more expensive way would have saved me head ache in the long run.

This is exactly why my brakes aren't done yet. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif



Its not a shortcut first off. its an alternative, to removing the head. nothing wrong with doing it this way, thats why they make tools for this sort of job. IMO i think it would be silly to remove the head to replace springs or seals.
 

BogusSVO

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Joined
Aug 29, 2013
Messages
232
Location
Pensacola, Florida
But with the head off, there are other details in the head that should be done, that were not from the factory, or most machine shops.

Oil port mod
cleaning of the vent tube
cleaning of the oil returns

Then you can also inspect the guides for excessive wear
Valve seal pattern

Also if you are slick, pull the valves out in order and smooth the casting lip under the seat insert.

Now if the head has a good amount of miles on it, you can pull the oil galley plugs and scrub them out too.
 
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