Right Rear Caliper Continues to Seize About Once Per Year

[fastasleep]

I have replaced my right rear caliper about once per year for the past 3-4 years.

What could be causing this?

- Bad brake lines?
- e-brake cable issue?

Secondly, should I replace it with a $90 one from Advance or is there an equally effective alternative?

 

[marvinmadman]

If you replace a caliper you should replace that brake line at the same time.

 

[G]

Could be using the improper lube on the slide pins.

 

[theevozero]

The actual caliper lock up once a year is not probable. Its most likely your cable. I recommend finding them on JNZ or rock auto. I bought mine from one of the two, just don't remember which. They are actually repackaged dealer cables. Good price.

 

[cl1ckclack]

Do you still have the stock rubber lines?

 

[slugsgomoo]

I should order new handbrake cables for my 1g, I know that if I use the handbrake when it's below freezing, the damn thing gets frozen on, and you can't release the caliper.

 

[misterfixit]

When you set up the calipers you should do them both as a pair. This is to ensure the e-brake cables share the same load and the mechanism is in phase side to side. There are a couple of simple things to check out to ensure it all works out ok. I'd even try this first before getting another caliper as 99.99% of the time I've found other issues to be the pain first.

1) Get the centre console out of the car. With the e-brake on is the spreader bar on the cable level? Do both cables pull the same?
2) Get the back in the air Both sides at the SAME time and get the wheels off.
3) Choose a caliper and remove it from it's bracket, then remove the bracket from the arm. Need the e-brake cable disconnected at the arm end too.
Check:
i, Do the pads look evenly worn?
ii, Do the pads slide FREELY in the bracket?
iii, is there lots of corrosion around the place on the bracket?
iv, If so ensure you scrape the edges of the pad ears, the slots they fit into, the rattle shims that clip to the brackets. You are done once the pad slips in with light finger pressure and moves freely with light finger pressure.
v, Check the slide pins and the slide pin bores. these should also fit cleanly and move with light finger pressure. If not these need cleaning too.

NOTE: Compacted rust is very hard and black, you will need a file or a tap to shift it. I generally use a file to break the surface for the ears and an M8 tap for the holes.

4) Once cleaned copper grease all the working surfaces (make sure there is none on the face of the pads. and bolt the bracket back.
5) repeat for the other side.
6) Caliper time: Wind the pistons ALL the way back until they bottom. If they are stiff or reluctant or the calipers are old you may want to rebuild the seal and piston interface too.
a, Wind out the piston.
b, remove the boot CAREFULLY (Little snap ring in the lip)
c, remove the square seal CAREFULLY ( I use a 2mm flat blade screwdriver.)
d, Wipe the boot and set aside.
e, Wipe the square seal in fresh brake fluid and set aside.
f, Now you need a funky little hook tool to clean out the seal groove. I make these from a portion of a wire coat hanger. Important thing to do is make a handle and a straight hook that will fit into the groove. Once done peen the tip flat so you can scrape the sh*t out of the square seal groove and the boot groove. You will be amazed at the sh*t that comes out.
g, next use the side of a flat screwdriver to scrape the sh*t and corrosion off the outer land of the seal groove (the bore between the square seal and the boot. Again, compacted rust is strong and you will be able to be quite hardy with this. You'll be surprised at the crap again.

***DO NOT TOUCH THE BORE INBOARD OF TYE SQUARE SEAL***

h, Reassemble the caliper and wind the piston right back.
7) Do the other caliper.
8) Assemble both back to their brackets DO NOT CONNECT THE E BRAKE CABLES.
9) Bleed if calipers were stripped or if preferred.
10) Get in the car and stamp hard on the brakes a couple of times to seat the calipers and pads but most importantly re adjust the e brake worm system IN phase.

11) slacken the e brake cable adjuster inside the car.
12) reconnect e brake cables.
13) Re adjust adjuster in the car.

When the e brake is operated the system should now be balanced. The toggle arm inside should be level.

14) Adjust now till drag is felt and then back off a1/4 to 1/2 turn. Should get a good number of clicks now.

15) Put wheels back on.

16) Enjoy.

Hope this helps

Rich

 

[toybreaker]

^^^ Now that's a quality post right there. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/worthy.gif

Think I'll be moving this thread to the how to section after the cause is identified and repaired. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


One cause I've found on many cars that have e-brake problems is in the cables.


There's a little rubber "booty" at the business end out by the brake caliper.

When this is damaged/torn, water/dirt/debris will make it's way into the cable, causing things to get "bindy"

I've torn a few trying to flat rate a pad swap /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

... usually find out I've got a problem the morning of the first freeze of the year /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif


After replacing a few cable$, I have learned to be more carefull.

One trick that works for me is to slide the boot off the cable end, and then up the cable out of the way before trying to remove the cable from the caliper key/slot. The cable comes out easier, and the boot is safe from being ripped/torn.


Galantvr4 specific e-brake cables are available from several sources.

I got mine from Paul at JNZ.

They dropped right in, and worked perfectly


Heading into winter is a good time to check/inspect these kinds of things. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[curtis]

One other thing.....

The right rear on mine started dragging and noticed it one day after I parked after an hour drive to work. Got out and forgot my wallet so walked back to the passenger side and as I walked pass the wheel I could feel the heat on my leg. Went to the local junkyard at lunch because at the time there was another VR4 there. Got the line, caliper and rotor. Checked the line and blew it out from the p valve, changed the rubber line, caliper and rotor. Seems like I changed the valve as well. Did all this at work and after I got home had the same problem. So I took the caliper I had removed and tore into it honed it out and repolished the piston and put it all together. Took it on a drive and same problem. WTF so I then took it back apart and ran to advance auto for a rebuild kit for the caliper. Of course they didn't have one so I got a single o ring for the caliper to replace the square o ring that came from the factory. Changed that out on both rear and problem was solved. I suppose its the years of being soaked in brake fluid that makes the o-ring swell so it does release properly. The o-rings I got were like 28 cents each and came from there drawers of just generic o-rings.

 

[misterfixit]

Hi Curtis,

Hence my time explaining the step in 'f,' Moisture works behind everything and you get compacted rust and crap so the square seal is squeezed more. Cleaning everyting gives it more room to move.

There are a couple of reasons not to use a generic round section o-ring:
1, There are a couple of main groups of o-ring rubber. Formulated for i, mineral oils ii, phosphate oils iii, fuels
not all are cross compatible.

Brake fluid is one of the very aggressive fluids and will cause mineral oil type rubbers to swell massively and reduce in durometer reading.

2, as its a piston seal and you need quick and positive reaction to the hydraulic input the o section will soak some fluid volume as it conforms to the groove. the square section of the seal is to give a stiff conforming seal that will fill the groove, hence it's intolerance to changes in the groove dimensions because of built up corrosion behind it.

hope this helps,

Rich

 

[mitsuturbo]

^ well said, and duly noted for future reference.

I've had calipers lock up over the years as well. I've replaced and cleaned calipers, but it never fixed the problem. It's always been the E-brake cable. I highly recommend replacing them, and then giving them a yearly squirt of silicone lubricant from the high end (in the console) to help them live a bit longer. Granted, the calipers can lock up as well, but if the cables have never been replaced, it's a safe bet that they're either part of the problem now, or will be a problem in the not too distant future.

BTW, contrary to what some people have reported here on the forum, DSM parking brake cables are NOT compatible with GVR4s. They're simply too short.

 

[theevozero]

I had/have this issue. I was living in Wyoming at the time and didn't even know I had a problem, since these problems almost never happen in Texas. My right rear caliper would lock up when it got below freezing and when it snowed, it put me in the ditch. I ended up replacing the cables after I left there and the caliper quit locking up, but now the brake would have a awful squeak/squeal that would change pitch when I touched the brake. I replaced the cables, rotor, pads, hardware, dust boots with lots of lube and it always comes back. I still haven't come up with a solution, I guess I haven't cared enough to mess with it since the car still operates normally. It just sounds like a huge hoopty. I just got a used replacement caliper in the mail, after driving it like this for about 3 years.

 

[EHmotorsports]

Mine used to squeak but due to the dust shield touching the lower ball joint and making contact with the rotor. but im not at stock height.

 

[fastasleep]

Ok, so - great stuff! Thank you everyone for your replies.

Yes, I do have the stock brake lines.

Here's where I'm at. I honestly don't have a lot of time to do extensive diagnostics up front. So, with limited time, I'm planning to replace all brake lines with stainless steel braided lines, both rear calipers, rear pads, rear rotors, and the e-brake cable.

1. I can't find the e-brake cable on JNZ for a Galant VR-4. Can anyone assist with that? Rock Auto lists three cables available for a Galant VR-4. Two of which are of differing lengths. Thoughts?

2. I discovered a left rear caliper in my dad's garage that likely came off my car a number of years ago. Does anyone know of a brake rebuilding service that I could ship that one off to for a rebuild?

Thanks for the responses so far.

Lastly, any advice on replacing the e-brake cable would be cool. I'm not really sure what I'm getting myself into with that one.