I can't seem to figure out my clutch

[rdomeck]

So, I have been fighting clutch disengagement issues every since I purchased my car about 9000 miles ago. I have done the following

New Slave
New Master
New line
Stage 2 shep trans (unknown mileage)

The trans that was in the car was ok, but went with the shep trans that I purchased from a local guy parting out his VR4. At that time I didn't install a new clutch as the CenterForce seemed ok. I then removed the trans again to install a new pivot, arm and bearing. I did have the flywheel resurfaced and made sure that the step was machined at .612 at the same time.

Still had the same problem. I just purchased a new Action clutch and installed it. I now have a very soft pedal. It does go in gear much better, but I was surprised to feel how soft it was. Well a now the clutch starts slipping at about 3800 RPM. I of course called Action Clutch and spoke with them and they gave the answer that I would give to one of my customers...It's hard for them to help from across the country and I should ship it back to them and they will check it out. This is the clutch that I bought click

The clutch i the only thing that I changed. I did bleed the clutch again and made sure that I could still push the rod back into the slave after everything was back together.

Any idea's? I don't know if I'm going to take to much more of this daily (working on it more than I am) driving it thing that is going on. This is making a payment on a new Evo sounds somewhat ok...

 

[DynastyLCD]

how is the clutch fork?
is the pedal assembly in good shape?
how are you bleeding it?
how is it shimmed?

i'm taking shots in the dark here, just trying to think of anything that could screw you up.

 

[rdomeck]

Brand new clutch fork
Pedal assembly in great shape
Bleed with two guys, a clear tube in a bottle with fluid in it
No shims

From what I understand all of those things have to do with disengagement...I'm having the other problem.

The guy at Action Clutch did ask if I had been hot rodding it shortly after the install and advised me that I needed to break it in for about a 1000 miles. As I put it to him, I am 36 years old, I have kids and a business. I'm not out dumping the clutch on it. I didn't notice that it was slipping until I was on an on ramp to the interstate and need to speed up to match traffic!

 

[vr4play]

Make sure that the adjustment on the pedal is good. If it's engaging too high it could not be engaging all of the way. If you had a heavier clutch in there before you may just have to adjust it so it engages lower to the floor. I had that problem with my race car. I had what I thought was a great pedal but the clutch wasn't engaging all the way and it would slip when I launched it. The kevlar clutches take a long time to break in. They only work if there is sufficient material transfer on the flywheel and the pressure plate. That being said it shouldn't slip just getting on it getting on the highway so that makes me think the throw out bearing is pressing on the pressure plate when it shouldn't be. Hope you get it figured out.

 

[prove_it]

Do you have an extended slave cylinder rod in place? You won't need that. Also not sure about your hydraulic line, if it's original it could be holding pressure back and allowing full engagement. Also make sure the steel lines are not kinked. This will still bleed out but it kinda acts like a one way valve. Also try pulling the slave off and checking for full movement of the clutch fork. It's possible its bent and not allowing full movement. (unless it's been replaced the a updated arm)

So, in short try to break the system down. It's either hydraulic or mechanical. Removing the slave will allow you to check the mechanical side and pull the fork boot off to look inside to see if the throw-out bearing is floating or not. Also not sure if you have an OEM bearing, but some aftermarket ones don't have the right specs and may cause an issue. If your fork moves and you look inside the case and can determine that the bearing does float away from the fingers, then the mechanical side is good.

Then I would suspect the lines next. Verify they are in good shape like I mentioned.

And don't forget that the clutch pedal bushings will get play and give you hell. Search on this to elaborate.

 

[rdomeck]

Every part in the system is new or rebuilt. The master, line, slave, push rod (normal length), arm, pivot ball (no shims), throw out bearing, pressure plate, and disc are all new.

Resurfaced flywheel with a step of .610 Flywheel torqued, pressure plate torqued. The arm and throw out bearing float like they should and I can easily push the rod back into the slave.

I'm going with they sent me a pressure plate that is made wrong or more than likely it's too weak. This has the softest pedal I think I have ever felt.

They did tell me that the kevlar disc take some break in time, but I'm not really buying that! I may drive the car some more to see if it gets any better, but I'm either going to sell it or take all the mechanical parts out and do a full rebuild from front to back.

 

[rdomeck]

Well, I am surprised that I was wrong. It doesn't happen often, but it does happen maybe once a year..... The clutch is grabbing much better after another 50 miles of city driving. Drove it yesterday because we were getting a bunch of snow and I loaned my truck out due to the snow..... Plus who doesn't want to drive the VR4 in the snow?

 

[gtluke]

are BOTH dowels in place when you bolted the trans to the engine? You NEED both of them.
raise the high clutch switch to let the pedal come up further. extend the master rod by welding an extra nut to the gold colored adjuster piece that attaches to the pedal. Don't go crazy, if you extend it too much you will prevent the master from releasing all the pressure and taking in new fluid. make sure you never do that. you will eventually "pump up" the clutch line and the clutch will slip.

 

[rdomeck]

I disagree with some of the above gtluke.... If everything is working correctly you should not need to extend the push rod. I can push the rod back in at the slave. That told me that nothing outside of the bell housing was keeping the clutch from fully engaging!

Plus I just needed to drive it more and break it in. Just something that I wasn't used to having to do.